jcarter1885

Yeah I know about KnuKnoceptz and 2/0 welding wire being the same size since I was the one who posted it on the forum. Just messing with you about pictures.

I personally would rather go buy my own clamps(which I will be soon) and do my own bench testing so I know the number is accurate and not just 1 out of 10 or a 100. I dont see the purpose of bench testing if there is not going to be one performed on every amp and that will be a waste to me to bench test every amp, just my .02

I have 2-12" Kicker CVX's, well three if I cant sell them I will keep two and use in my upcoming install. How much would a box similar to that be around sent to 76011, tuned to 30hz? Thanks Just curious on your personal opinion of Kicker CVX's if you have used them before, appreciate the input.

Glad you could join us. Usually to get more power back there from the alternator/main battery to the battery bank. The more ground wires you use the least voltage drops you have which helps it stay stable during idle if not bumping hard. More experienced people will chime in.

How bout you go to the website and get the contact info so you can ask them, they will no more than anybody else.

go here: multimeterwarehouse.com Get you two True RMS Clamp Meters and thats how you truly test an amps out capabilities or what you are doing at that moment and time.

It's pretty much murdered out allready lol, I dont know how much more I can do : Here's the lattest pic after the retint of 15% all the way around : on the black out all the way around.

More more more

For electrical: Big 2 of 3 done (only upgraded ground wires so far, will upgrade battery positive to alternator during this build or when I get my h/o alternator but it came with stock 4 gauge so its cool for now). -engine block to cars frame is currently 1 run of 1/0 AWG Kicker Hyperflex and will be replaced/upgraded with 1 run of 3/0 or 4/0 AWG welding wire. -battery negative to cars frame is currently 2 runs of 1/0 AWG Kicker Hyperflex and will be replaced/upgraded with 1 run of 3/0 or 4/0 AWG welding wire. As for subwoofers I am learning towards 1-15" since I never had one and want to try one out, so if I go that route I will get a Sundown Z15(D4) on the Sundown SAZ-2000D at 2 ohms and maybe upgrade in the future to a nightshade if I want more or just to switch between two. But then again I dont want to leave the 2-12"s option and get 2 Sundown SA-12"s and see how they treat me, its all a toss up but for some reason im leaning towards the 15" option. The enclosure will be no more 3.5 for either box tuned at 30Hz. Looking at keeping it an all Sundown trunk for now (subs,amps) for now but time will tell.

Better ways to find space for a battery rack unless you really want to take up that whole back area for the enclosure, just my .02.

x2, beat me to the punch.

He's asking 350 for them and they do 800 rms @ 2 ohms in the 12 volt area.

Nobody really knows, if he did a bench test or had clamp meters with a TRUE RMS feature on them then yeah he is right.

hmmmm.....I would say underneath for a uniform look. When I put some of my painted stuff in, it had scratches on it because of sliding the box in and out so many times. Very good input on paint being scratched off so that will be a good idea, I wont put the board in the car until I finish painting the other side and putting some type of dampening down to keep it from scratching up the paing (really taking my time with painting this time unlike other things I have painted in the past cause I always tried to finish in one day). Appreciate ya Chop, I like that idea as well (that was were I was wanting to put it also, great minds think alike but just thought I would ask my SSA Family). Yeah its not the room I like to have, but its bigger than most cars my size so Im cool with it (wish I had room for 2-15"s).

Actually there are more people than you think that run that much power on stock electrical and dont know why they do but I even did at once (which wasnt smart of me but nothing happened besides amps getting hot every now and then). Yeah buddy quality plays a large part in the role (look at how many hifonics amps crap out on people when it isnt the user's fault), you can try and beef up sorry quality amps all day but there own track records proves them wrong. Were not saying they wont work, Ive heard hifonics amps and at one time thought they were great till I seen the failure rate. Be smart about your logics (they would be good budget amps if they knew how to last), I would pick Audioque amps over these since at least they can last. It was part user error rushing to put it in and the amp itself (enough said). In life the quality of anything has to do with how long it last and that is common sense (not the price of something or the name brand but the QUALITY of the product or service shows how it will endure over time).

Im not gonna carpet the lid, it is sprayed with speckle paint and will stay like that. Thats exactly why I didnt make the lid take up the whole storage space and the box will be wider than it is deeper so air will be able to get down there. I just want some suggestions on if the lid should be under the carpet or on top thats all.

I have a board that cut to make a 3/4 lid for the old spare tire area, now the new battery storage area when I get two new batteries. The board covers up most of the area, leaving some room in the back for wires from amps and car (I havent decided how I will throw 2 - 90AH batteries down there yet but thats were they will go). Should I leave lid above carpet or undercarpet (Option #1 or Option #2)? Thanks for input fellas. Unpainted storage lid Painted storage lid Carpet over paint storage lid - Option #1 Storage lid on top of carpet unpainted Storage lid on top of carpet painted - Option #2 Which route would you go with placing this storage lid, if its above the carpet I will attach enclosure on top of it but if not it will go undercarpet?

If not then go buy an agm charger if the 100Ah is agm and top it off every now and then.

1.Sub up to roof and port to back of vehicle Usually in theory for a SUV sub up towards roof and port rear facing towards trunk opening, but it all comes down to testing to find the optimal spot since every vehicle and install is different. Just my .02

You probably just dont have the rights to edit posts yet, you dont have to reserve posts just put your pictures up on a new post.

The question is how much are you willing to pay for one?

Yeah wiring below its ohm load stability will do that, not saying you have the proper skills to fix the amp the right way but I wouldnt try it. Plus after watching how db-r.com they do it, you should replace all parts and not just certain ones or it will probably lead to failure over time again. Just my .02, but I would just get rid of amps since the cost to probably fix both isnt worth it and can be saved to use towards new equipment.

Yeah man because till this day that was the best location for it and it was not unseen from others also (but I do like the location).