jcarter1885

Jacob recommends 3-3.25 ft3, tuned between 32 and 35hz. I would say the standard 12-16 sq in of port area to every cuft. So if you are doing 6 ft3, then about 72-96 sq in of port area total. I have one of these in 3.25ft3 enclosure, tuned to 35hz. It sounds great with only about 400rms! I plan on purchasing one of these today and going for 3.39ft^3 @ 29.99Hz, cant wait till you get this build log up and rolling. Ill be making some and getting something to .

I hate those kinda terminals since it is hard to overtighten them to wire without stripping the thread on the little turn piece, plus the wiring can slip out if not tight enough or getting pulled someway or somehow. Just my .02 but keep the build log going.

I suggest better video footage because those videos are horrible, I really wan to see and hear a little potential from them which I cant from the video. Excellent equipment though .

The only time you fuse before the amp is if the amp does not have any on-board fusing on it.

He has a W505 and therefore doesn't need the controller. The 505 is a way better controller than the rux anyways. I'd also highly recommend not using dynamat but instead shopping for deadener products here: http://sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi I won't comment on the speaker locations until I know what car you have. Perhaps I missed it/forget it through the thread, but every car is different and a compromise. What do you feel you are able to do? I have a 2004 tahoe, probably should add that to my sig. So you don't recommend the h-701, do you think the dqxs is needed or should I get the alpine imprint system with the mic. I liked mjmorovi's set up, that was what I was hoping I could do since the kicks do not seem like they would work for me. Do you have any other suggestions of something that would work better. And if I put the mids in the dash, how far back. It is pretty deep, I would say almost 28-30 inches. I will have to measure that though. For the tweets, there are existing mounting positions from the stock tweets that are about the position that was suggested for me to use. Althogh,they do point forward towards the windshield about 30 degrees and slightly upwards. Pictures of what your talking about would help us help you better.

Or just get you some bolts and attach the wire to one side inside the box and have wires coming off of it on the outside going to the amp (check out some build logs on here cause some boxes are like what im talking about).

This is getting absurd. Again without knowing what you are willing to do or your budget no one should be recommending you anything. For instance if you have $750 for paying someone to do the install and the components I'd allocate at least 2/3's of it to the install. If you are doing it yourself you can shave off the hourly's but you still need to budget for the appropriate deadening and such. A set of $500 is a complete waste of money if they are just bolted into the stock locations, a set of $750 ones would be even worse. x2, it is more than just picking speakers so take your time and you still need to go out and find dealers in your area so you can listen to them for yourself (you and someone else's preferences are different and what he likes you wont like). Just my .02

You were reading my posts, thats why.

Will there be anymore equpiment in the car or future upgrades?

Search the internet first, there is plenty of information there and whatever you dont understand or need further input on then list it here and we can help you (but you have to do some work first).

So like ///M5 said what have you listened to do so we can help you decide what you like, if none then find some focal dealers in your area and go give them a listen (the only way to tell what you would like, nobody can tell you what you will like).

Its is some on here just gotta use the search function or look through some build logs, but there are pictures of all sizes on here is previous topics, just search.

You wont be upset, what led you over to the Dark Side (Sundown Audio)?

If your gonna go against what everyone is saying then do it how you want to (why did you even ask if your gonna argue with us) and run strapped amps at .5ohms and see how long it last you while being a strain on your electrical and not producing to much more power (which wont be noticed to ear and barely by mic on TL Meter).

I've seen that page already, i'm looking for numbers that i cant work with i've heard that 4.5ft.^3 @ 34hz should sound loud be i'm looking for more opinions on what you guys think is a good spl enclosure for a 15 L7 The biggest size recommended by the company, and tuning can start at 35Hz and up but it depends on your vehicles peak which takes lots of testing (so nobody can tell you, its all subjective and install dependent since every car is different).

What do you mean Just like me? I'm not understanding what your talking about. PLEASE elaborate I wasn't speaking to anyone person but the whole post sorry. My point is everyone has to start some where and just because the car audio guy doesn't know everything doesn't mean he is an idiot. It just seams like a lot of DIY guys have alot of hate for the guys in the industry. I started out doing car audio in my garage for a year or two then got a chance to work at a shop and its been my life ever since. I love car audio. I agree with you but I disagree with the part that DIY guys hate installers. We hate installers who say they are professionals and do shitty work (you pay for a pro to do it and it looks like a novice did it), we hate people who call themselves professionals but only mastered one or two areas of car audio instead of all the areas and act like they know what they are doing. We hate professionals who only try to sell what they have in the store because they dont want you to buy another brand, when all we want is advice or help from what brand we already choose. Etc, just my .02 But yeah car audio is more than positive to positive, negative to negative, remote to wire and speakers and amps.

x2,

naw, i was eager to hook it up since it took me over 3 weeks to build the box due to florida rain and my work and school schedule. i meant to sauter them together, but i never bought more heat shrink tubing.. idc about the amp anymore. it was a piece and now i have the most awesome end table ever made. A sub box!! One thing you will learn in life is that when you shortcut things, later on that shortcut will come to bite you in the ass especially when it comes to electrical work of any kind. Be smart and do things how they are supposed to be done and do it the right way no matter how much time you have on your hands (its the only way).

You can upload a different picture for your avatar, after you upload it the page still has the same avatar on it. Just refresh the page and your new avatar will be there and same thing for the forum page when you go back to it at first it still has the old avatar, once you refresh that page the new avatar shows up also.

Didnt even pay attention and notice it was that old.

Interesting goal description. I would say ported. x2, I was going to say sealed at first but since he threw loud in there and is concerned about output I decided to go with ported also.

I would say ported since you threw loud in there, what are the max dimensions you have to work with (height x width x depth).

Glad you could join us .

I am pretty much just going to X2 all of that. x3, and I would say whatever fits in your budget, has the processing and crossovers you need, has the power your looking for and fits your install or preferences (size, capabilites, customer sevicem, etc.)