jcarter1885

It also depends on how much room you have also, 4 15"s will not fit into a galant unless you do a wall.

$95 plus shipping for one, $280 plus shipping for all three.

Yeah I know, we talked a little last week and havent heard back from so I guess he is just getting things together on his end.

x2, I just stop reading it.

x2, is this over or still going on? What is the deal with this promotion?

Good looking box man.

Maybe before than or mayber after nobody knows dude, when they get up to your order that is the day it will be made but you do have up till 30 days from the day you purchased it till it will be made then shipped. Now its just a waiting game so just be patient and relax you have a great sub headed your way.

Yeah some people do work at shops and end up leaving due to their business practices but nowadays it is better to start out of your garage or just be mobile like me. I have hooked up systems in placing you wouldnt even think of, just a start to get better and one day to do it in the big leagues. Good luck with it man.

When they get finish hand-building your woofer you will get another email with your tracking number telling you its on the way, thats your receipt confirmation. Now you have to wait and be patient till your sub gets to you, start getting box together and your electrical up to par.

Nice pictures man , have you installed it yet.

Yes you do, next time read the manual like your supposed to since it will tell you how to properly hook up your amplifier. If you see that most amps have fuses on them and you get one without some on there I hope common sense would kick in and be like maybe this needs a fuse. Reading is fundamental .

I guess to make the title look pretty, haha. I think you need to check your settings on headunit and amp, work with this and see what you have that may be off. I highly doubt its the car that is making bass cancel, I think you may just want to go ported also since sealed doesnt seem to be cutting it for you but play around with your settings some more till you find out if its the settings or not. Head Unit Settings Bass Boost/Exend = Off Loud/Loundness = Off Sub Level: + whatever yours goes up to minus a few whatever your preference Bass = 0 or lower, whatever your preference Amp Settings Gain = Set with DMM (with a 50Hz test tone and at subs rms or amps rms whichever is lower), no more than 50-60% if you dont have one. LPF = 80Hz or lower whatever your preference Bass Boost = Off

What battery do you have?

It can be done, you just have to be SMART about the gain settings and how you use your volume. If you want headroom or want to upgrade in the future than buy the right amp now but if your not upgrading you dont need the SAZ-1500D. Just my.02

Yeah one with screw in posts, the other one with standard top posts and the one with side posts I believe but they all do the same thing just different designs for wire hook-up.

So what do you want to ask them, just ask us? There are some good ones out there you just gotta to know which ones to go to thats all. Most say stuff like that because they are scared of competition and dont want you to spend your money elsewhere. We already have a topic about this under this one, you could have just put this in there instead of making a new topic.

I cant sleep if it was life or death situation .

Now that is a toy to envy, a boat and car all in one (should save you money, I wonder if you have to get car insurance, boater's insurance or both).

What model number Deka's are you getting, hopefully it is the 9A31? the one i have now is a 9A78DT...know anything? To make sure you have enough juice get the 9A31 for you secondary battery and you will be good to go.

Yeah it is because 9 times out of 10, most people who do go to local car audio shops will pay anything they tell them to put a system in there car and dont know an ounce of car audio to say what they did is wrong or not required (not all are like this but most, there are some good shops out there).

What model number Deka's are you getting, hopefully it is the 9A31?

Now personally that is some bullshit to put a 6 gauge terminal post on the h/o alternator when people know good and well most wires for them will be 1/0 AWG or bigger. Thanks for the review so I know where not to get one, but sorry it had to be a problem though.

i havent done the installation in this car. It was all professionally done...why didnt they put one to begin with? and why are the same people telling to put a cap now? 3 Reasons why: 1. To get your money and sell you a product they have instead of what you will need or to get you in to spend more money fixing a problem they started. 2. They dont know what they are doing (by far professionals just work for a local car audio shop, thats all). 3. The first two reasons.

So when you get the Alternator I suggest that you upgrade that power wire from battery positive post to alternator positive post. I wouldnt get a relay or isolator unless you play your music with car off a lot. Was there a difference in things with the addition of a new battery today or still the same?