jcarter1885

Do you know why they discontinued it?

Trust me if it was a good idea buddy people would already be doing it especially if it would benefit.

Or just get a dual 1 ohm and run the sub at 2 ohms and he will be fine. OP what is your budget? The Q is the sub that will get the lowest out of all of them, the BL will hit great lows and get loud and the BTL is the BL on steroids basically.

It sounds like you answered your own question, do you wanna look cool or go for the performance you want thats the real question?

The positive wire goes from battery positive post to alternators positive post.

Well go buy what you can afford or whats in your budget. Others will say Hybrid is probably better than the Pioneer Premiers but everybody has their preference. Its a coin toss, either save the 200 or spend the 500 and get the Hybrid and test them out yourself. That is what most of us do when we buy speakers nowadays, I dont see why they wont do the job but the only way to tell is listen to them or buy them and install them/go from there. But if you do like the Pioneer Premiers than grab them and have some fun. Just my .02

So Im guessing now you dont have any airbags in the car huh?

What you know about that Asti, now thats some good shit.

Wiring it a certain will still give it the same sound, the only thing that changes is if you drop the ohm load you get more power to your subs and if you raise the ohm load you usually get less power from your amp to your speakers.

Yeah Rusty can, email him at [email protected] or search through the DC Audio thread Im pretty sure its in there (thats what the search function is for, do a little work man).

Nice picture, the best testing ever will be when its installed a review is giving on how it performs.

I wouldnt say you need six unless you had a lot of runs of power. Right now I only have a 4 gauge(to alternator) and 1/0 awg(to amps) on batteries positive post, and on the negative post of the battery I have 2-1/0 awg wires and my voltage is high and stays high during full tilt and at idle it is very stable. I would say just double up what you have on the positive post for the ground posts. In the future I will have one 2/0AWG(for system) and one 4 guage (to alternator) on the battery's positive post and to be safe and get the best voltage possible I will use 2-3/0 AWG wires (I was going to do 2-2/0AWG but I know I will be upgrading the alternator and wire going to it so Im just planning my grounds ahead of time). Hope this helps.

The are brand new, just being discontinued cause version #2 is coming out real soon. Hurry Up and Buy. Welcome and glad you could join us my fellow Texan .

That extra battery ground helped out didnt it, good job man and glad to see things are getting better in the Vic.

Good luck and keep us posted, it will work out for you in the end man.

Yeah I seen your build thread the other day when I clicked on the link.

It sounds like your going about this the right way, get the other alternator for now and keep it until it dies on you or until your ready for your new one. Check out for the lows gallery in my gallery and you will see I just attached it to a bolt on the engine where my ground wire already was but it will give you an idea. Yeah go ahead and get that battery since your going to need it anyway, get what you can now (it will be less to buy in the future).

Well I just got finish selling three 12" CVXs and they were only seeing 700-800rms between the three of them but sounded great (I do understand where you are coming from though). Yeah I was there not to long ago, eventually you wont be a noob for long especially with the help of this site.

and

What is the J-body site if you dont mind me asking? When do you think you will go get metered?

Just so nobody jumps on you, turn off your caps lock buddy. Appreciate it.

Oh it just started to get expensive and will keep getting more and more expensive (watch) but no problem man and good luck.

Hey, hey you guys are cluttering my topic with all this , just playing I wanted to raise my post count some.

Acutally it is just a typo because if you look at the BXI-2610 on that website it has the right numbers, they just gave the BXI-2010 the same ratings and specs as the BXI-1610 (somebody on there website messed up and needs to fix that). Your cool I just didnt know what you were talking about when you were talking about that BXI-2010 amp thats all, yeah keep asking the questions so we can help you. If you feel like you dont want to post a topic or question you can always pm and I will be glad to help you buddy.