jcarter1885

Great idea, I would hope on that offer also (im trying to get another one before the deal is over).

What voice coil option would he us too?

Thanks for the link

what componets woud you suggest any in particular?and also when doing 4500 watts of bass in a car what exactly needs to be deadened is it just trunk and front doors or roof also? Deadening is mostly preference but you should deaden where you need to. First you need to find out where your panels are vibrating, flexing like crazy or resonating at and cure those areas then see if more is needed. Some do deaden the roof, doors, trunk area and floors of there car/suv.

You want your port on same side as subs or maybe subs facing rear and port on side but not port on the opposite end of subs. You will be fine no matter which way you face it, there is no way of going around the loss of having your subs in a trunk unless you buy a vehicle that doesnt have one. Everyone with a trunked system is going through the same thing you are, so its only so much you can do but it will still have an effect.

i did get 154.2 on a tl with the btls the saz2k was at .5ohm You sure it was a TL meter? Install dependent on your first question, the only way to tell is get the 4 8" speakers and do a test then compare your scores (basic simple answer).

Stock speakers definitely wont cut it or sound good, especially amped. Yeah the 100.4 will be good but I suggest a nice set of components, but plan on spending some money on deadening to make the front stage have more of an effect.

Take your speakers out of your rear deck, tear apart your rear deck or do subs and port firing into cabin with it sealed off from the trunk.

Now just a sub in door is possible but your gonna need to take alot of things into consideration, make sure your cousin knows what he is doing.

I see what your saying about a sub but when most people who refer to an active setup they do not include there subs in it, they only affiliate it with the interior speakers no matter how you have your sub ran or tweaked. Im not steering you away from DD, it doesnt matter to me (I wouldnt buy them but that doesnt mean you shouldnt, everyone has there own preferences); I was merely throwing options out there like you said earlier. You do not have to give a sub its full rms for it to shine at all, there is no such thing as underpowering a subwoofer at all so in your case you will be fine. Well I would ask you what is your overall budget for a sub or subs but you say you want to stick with DD.

Naw whoever told you 250 is . Some go with a little under amps total fuse rating because you more than likely will never pull that many amps. Then you have some that go about 10-15% more than amps fusing, it all boils down to preference. Then you have another batch who fuse to wire's capacity so in all actuality you wont get a constant answer. Your on Team Audioque with these type of questions?

What'd you use??? For my subwoofer I ended up using some Rockford Fosgate 13AWG twisted wire that I had laying around. I will be buying some nice 16 guage wire from Fry's within a couple of days since they have spools of 100 ft for $20-30 depending on the quality.

Not another versus topic, these are two different drivers made for different goals.

No speakers no size will be able to keep up over 4000watts of bass.

Doesnt sound possible considering the size for an amp, then you have to make room for subs mounting depth also. I definitely wouldnt do it.

Probably not, did you make room for batteries and amps in those dimension.

They probably didnt respond since they wont be showing you anything.

You dont have a 3-way setup, you have a 2-way setup with a sub stage. 3 ways consist of tweeters, midrange and midbass. 2 ways consist of tweeters and midrange or midbass speaker. Well how about you try an SSA Xcon on your amp, preferrably a 15" or are you trying to stay on a 12" subwoofer.

1 saz-4500d and dual 2 ohm 15' l7 kickers and they have an rms of 1000 watts, how many do u think i could run off that amp ? obviously if you can run 2 for a 2 ohm load then the most you can run is 4 for a 1 ohm load, thats it. You should only be worried about how much space you have in your vehicle to make an enclosure and then determine what you can run from there, not by how much power you have. Just because you have the power to run 4 doesnt mean you have the space.

I answered this in your last topic, why start a new one. You can hook up as many speakers that make up a certain ohm load due to there voice coil rating and how you wire them. Go to www.th12volt.com and click on subwoofer wiring diagram to see all the possible wiring solutions. Your over there thinking I have 3500 or 4500 watts lets see how if I can hook up 16 speakers and kill everybodys' system, not a smart way to go about it.

Z-Ro - Lonely

I didnt even use 12 gauge on my subwoofer but it will work fine if that is what you want to use.

just curious have you installed that xcon on that saz2000 yet? if so how did it turn out? Naw man, I actual went another route for right now. I ended up getting a Sundown Z15 version 1 for now until I upgrade just wanted a temporary sub for now until I get electrical and under things up to par in the car.

for one of those big mono sundown amps , how many speakers could u hook up to it? perferably a 3500d or a 4500d Depending on the ohm load you run the amp at and the voice coil ohm load that the subwoofer has, multiple variations.

So here are your answers, the reason why you upper bass frequencies could be lacking could be do to amp settings or box tuning among other things. How do you know its lacking at 44Hz and up did you do a sweep with some tones to see where its cutting off? I dont see why your new sub shouldnt be louder since it is made for a different goal and tuned much higher with more power, that sounds like a given. Nobody could honestly tell you, just make sure you do the install right and build a good enclosure. Yeah you will have problems running those amount of watts without doing the Big 3 Wiring, Secondary Battery or Two and an HO Alternator. Or like stated earlier, which is the best advice keep your amp and run it at one ohm. Find you some subwoofers or a subwoofer that can take on the AQ 1200D at ohm, build a nice box tuned higher than what you want (get a FI Car Audio BL with BP Power and it will blow your current setup out the water). Nobody woke me up and this ain't church so no need to preach. Besides, he had his facts wrong. If you can't come in here and answer some questions and help people out then you can stay out of my thread cause there's no need for your unhelpful and ignorant comments. That's all Calm down, dont get emotional. You gotta understand your gonna need power to make power, I go where I please buddy. You dont even know what your running your amp at, just because it is rated at 870 watts doesnt mean that is what setting you have it on at that volume level, does mean it is playing at the wattage for every second, doesnt mean you have the electrical to make it reach that wattage without clipping if so (I could go on and on). So you dont know it your doubling the rms to those subs or just a little more than rated.