jcarter1885

Naw that should be fine in the region, just watch the sub on some songs were it has lots of excursion (your eyes and ears will be the best test but you should be good). Looks good, do you have any updates or is everything still the same, is that SAX-50.4 treating you nicely on your interior speakers (thinking of getting one myself)?

posted my thoughts so far

Oh for the family, let me clear my mind. What are you planning so far to see what could be added or would mesh well. The usually so far pancakes, french toast, eggs (omlettes - take special orders for each individual person customized to their liking), sausage, bacon, choice of fruit smoothie for a drink (im easy to please so maybe others might have some ideas).

Naked and an open bag of Cheetos? Man dont I remember those nights, haha priceless.

Well it wont be the biggest difference in the world but it will be better on the sub, better quality a little more power since your amp is probably putting out a 1000 watts at the most and with voltage drops probably lower. I wouldnt rush buying the amp if it is not a main concern but I would budget getting a better amp for it though such as the SAZ-1500D (But it is on sale now).

When the information in the thread is lacking and the OP ignores the posting guidelines he agreed to when he joined and then posts a topic that is rehashed 20x a week it gets REALLY annoying. Make a good thread, give good information or DON'T POST. I was just going to say the same thing after reading his post, people dont want to follow the rules but get mad when they get called out for it. Makes no sense, it is like people who break the law and get mad at the police officer for catching them and writing them a ticket or taking them to jail (stupid if you ask me, you know it was wrong when you did it so you shouldnt be mad you got caught).

No matter the voice coil rating the rms will be the same on any subwoofer you buy out there. The rms is 1500, since you have to ask stick with 1500rms and you wont damage anything.

x2, why do people put hard objects on there car just to watch them bounce off (will scratch or dent your paint and it should jump). It makes no sense to me, I never understood it and still dont.

I got my Sundown Koozie also. What made you switch out batteries? Were you louder with panels on or off?

Congrats on a lot of power

Usually the higher the ohm load the more efficient, I would just leave it how it is (wont see or hear a difference).

if you really dont want to help give me a suggestion then why even bother replying to me The bad thing about it is I gave you the best suggestion, you will get more results from looking through the old threads like this then waiting on people to reply to you.

I have a comp set of Memphis (see sig for info) and they sound very good to my ears, morel are fantastic but thats if you wanna spend 500+ a set, polk sound nice for the price. Personally i think MB quart DSH 213 sound good for the price too. thanks for your input ! unlike other people on here ! My recommendation is the same as others you gotta go out and listen to some yourself, everybody has different taste in there sound. But you dont give us a budget to work with to know what to offer and what not, you didnt tell us your tweeter preference (soft dome, hard dome, cone, horn etc.), what goals or sound your geared towards?

Or get two 1500 watt amps and strap them together for the power you need at 2 ohms.

Yeah I was going for one of there higher lines (XXV), I think it is the Colossus or something along those lines. Thanks for clearing that up.

But I voted for the smaller setup with attention to detail just so you will be able to show us what your equipment is working with.

Did you pay for it (cause I wouldnt of paid for it) or whooped his ass for the system (thats what i want to know)? But good job on getting your stuff back.

Read the whole post before replying, he already bought the amp. Yeah Im about to get one from db-r.com (all I need is a SAX-50.4 to complete my amps for my interior speaker setup). Good choice and have fun

Get an Audiopipe AP3000.1D, they do 3000 watts at 2 ohms so does a Hifonics amp (cant remember the model number and name). There are amps man, you just gotta look for them. Also look at the Kicker ZX2500.1. For the money you spend on the electrical just to back up an amp at .5 ohms to run it safely can be used on buying the right equipment in the first place to run everything at 1 or 2 ohms. But it is your money and your install, nobody said it cant be done just not the smartest thing to do. Why run something where a manufacture doesnt warranty (yeah it can do it but for how long, maybe forever and maybe not). That is like getting a suv for going off-road but dont get the 4x4 option, nobody said it cant go off-road and it wont work just dont be surprised when something happens to it.

Blame the industry for screwing itself. No standardized testing means that there are no published specs that are comparable. Really simple actually. Of course buying a meter is stupid, as is caring what the actual power is. Minimal changes in power mean jack shit. Instead buy something that is made with good components and will do what you need it to do. Well said, it is some things you can buy cheap but if your gonna use it consistently and need to rely on it for daily abuse then go for greater quality. Just my .02

Most people want to use it because when they turn the knob it makes there bass hit harder which isnt always a good thing. One thing I noticed is how I messed up more equipment by using the boost whether it was for subs, interior speakers or whatever. Just dont use boost and use the right amount of power from start and you will be fine with good sound, not just extra bass that sounds horrible on most notes.

The main rain reason why AGM over Gel: AGM is preferred when a high burst of amps may be required. In most cases recharge can be accomplished by using a good quality standard battery charger or engine alternator.

Any mainstream company has horrible customer service (some get back to you right away and then some give you the run around). You also have some that will take forever to get them replace (a year or better), so that is why most are stepping away from these guys and using non mainstream brands with customer service. I never dealt with them but giving you a heads up of what you might be in for. Not so true, i dealt with MTX when my amp blew up, it was 3 months out of warrenty. They fixed it for free and then shipped it back for free also. All i paid was 10 dollars for shipping. Sometimes it depends on the company. If they can't repair it for a reasonable price contact Db-r and see if they can fix it. Obviously you didnt read every word I said, that is why I said some get back to and some give you the run around. Reading is fundamental, very fundamental.

Yeah you could throw a 2000-3000 watt amp in your car and run it off the electrical, nobody said that you cant like it is impossible. But yeah to get every watt from your amp, not kill you alternator or strain it (play as loud as you want for as long as you want) then your gonna need some upgrades to the electrical. Whether the upgrades are Big 3, battery, ho alternator or something to keep the voltage steady so the power can be there. There is no way they are seeing 14.4 volts when that system is fully bumping with no upgrades what so ever.

Why ask if you still want to run it at 0.5 ohms, common sense would tell you run it that low and get an excellent electrical system and voltmeter. That is the only way to tell since every install is different and car acts different. Get the electrical you think is good enough and install it, if it doesnt hold up then buy some more. Why ruin your equipment because you think running it that low will give you that extra umph when it wont, be smart and run equipment the way it should be. But if you insist then get a lot of electrical upgrades to back it up (those amps are already power hungry and would be stupid to run at .5 ohms).