jcarter1885

Please bare in mind that clamp tests are not a very reliable or accurate test method, and not a method that should be used to compare one amplifiers performance to another for daily use applications or to determine the "actual" performance of any single amplifier. If I recall correctly RF claims their amplifiers will still make rated power down to around 12.5V, I believe this is part of the reason why the "birthsheets" show higher power output than rated (birthsheets are @ 14.4V). RF amplifiers are CEA-2006 compliant so they must state power is "rated" at 14.4V, but that doesn't mean they can't design the amplifier to still provide rated power at lower voltage levels. I didnt say anything about this test as being used as the holy grail, he asked what they do around 12 volts and I just posted a link for him to look at. I didnt want to say they do this so I posted what the owner of the company posted as a guide or reference to what their capabilities can be thats all; instead of me answering a question I have no facts on so I gave the OP facts.

If so I dont know how to do it, but all this time your wasting on getting an answer you could be doing the simple amp swap (shouldnt take no more than 5 minutes to hook up test and then unhook it).

Yeah, download better quality songs, never mind the FACT that not all cd's are recorded at the same volume level Anytime you use a boost it is not good for the speakers regardless the quality of the music, if the music is recorded horribly then it will still sound shitty when boosted.

So you said amp is powering up but no sound right? Do you have another amp to just simply hook up and test to see if it is the amp itself? Check your RCA's.

Does she have a sister?

Keep in mind part of "sound quality" is accurate reproduction of the material, which includes sound level. It can require a good bit of output to properly reproduce an organ or piano, and having sufficient output capabilities to handle dynamic peaks that occur in well recorded source material is also required. For example, it takes a fair amount of displacement to accurately reproduce the 18hz organ in Planet Kryptonite. "Sound quality" and "loud" go hand in hand as an inability to reproduce the material at realistic levels would be a failure to achieve the initial goal of sound quality. Too many people (not necessarily you, just in general) equate "sound quality" with "quiet". That said, there is a large difference between designing a system with sufficient capabilities to reproduce the source material at realistic levels, and the typical use of the term SQL which is all too often supposed to mean "Hey guys I'd like to be able to hit 145db on music without it sounding like total crap"....which has no semblance of sound quality, hence the problem with the term "Sound Quality Loud". I agree with you on that one, there are to many people who feel as though that you can only get 145dbs or more by sounding like crap so they say they want SQL when SQL has nothing to do with it. In all actuality you will get 145 dbs on music and louder while sounding good if you make your enclosure correctly and from recommended specs and so forth. Its not that the term cant be used or is just banned, it is the fact people are not using it right at all. To me it is just an understanding of how people get mixed up in saying they are running there system active and include the subs as part of there system, when in reality you only have a two-way active setup with a sub stage and not a three-way active system all together.

Well if that is all that happened in between you unhooking it and hooking it back up then yeah I wouldnt see why it could be anything else. They dont need to be shook since that is bad for them since it can mess up the internals and so on. What was the point in him shaking it, that is the question I want to know the answer to?

Sounds like a loudness feature but for a mp3 player, I wouldnt use it and if you need it then it means you need to download better quality songs.

Well its not as stupid as using the term "nooblets" which makes just as much since as mashing acronyms like "SQL". Its just a word to describe new members in any field out there, not just car audio. SQL is not a good term for the way people use it at all, they dont even go together. If the word newb, , nooblet or whatever else you can make from the word upset your or get to you then you have more in life to be worried about, such as why do words bother you.

Yeah you got you a good one, she got you big time.

BMW's, Saturns, Mercedes, Lambo's, some Chryslers and so on. Some even have the factory battery in the rear tire wheel or under a seat in the car, not all models neither just certain ones.

No but it is a cheaper upgrade then buying a battery or alternator, and a smart thing to do if you want to keep your vehicle or something for a long time. You should also get a voltmeter to keep an eye on your voltage? Next time give a budget so someone can help you better and find an amp that fits your needs? A big 3 does not determine how much voltage you can run, a car's factory system such as alternator and battery will determine that. The Big 3 makes running extra power and accessories easier without slowing down your car's factory electrical system. Since every car is different, nobody can tell you what the general amount of extra watts you can run off of a stock system.

Got a Z v.1 for now on the SAZ-2000d at 2 ohms and will get a Nightshade v.2 for the SAZ-2000D at 1 ohm when it comes out (or maybe two Nightshade v.2 12"s on 2-SAZ-200D's).

How bout you contact db-r.com and ask him since he would know more than speculation since he did the work on it, he will be able to tell you more since he does this for a living whether or not something likes odd or not. That is what I would do

I know its not my car, it doesnt take a rocket scientist to figure that out (I said I dont understand why people do that to there cars like it is some sort of testosterone booster or something, look how high I can make my lighter or phone jump off of my trunk where bass is), now that is major FAIL . I have an extra ground and what not and know that there is nothing wrong with extras grounds but why the need for 16 grounds (where all the factory ones upgraded and you mentioned them or you just added 16 extra grounds to the car)? Telling someone that a Audioque 2200D can be ran off stock alternator and dont give any information like this to back up your claims makes newbs believe this thinking if they get one of those amps they will be fine off of stock battery, alternator and gains more than 1/4 of the way up. This can be bad information in the wrong hands at the end of the day, that is why we always ask for all information available when making post or topics.

I talked to Mark yesterday and he said you will still be available to get them from him, he said his website is down but contact him through his sales email in the other topic. Yeah I had just bought one of the four I need for an install and was upset also hearing about them not being sold here anymore and thought I wasted my money but they are still gonna be sold.

Sound Quality and loud just dont go together, not saying you cant get some great output from a sound quality setup. You dont focus on the loud when making a Sound Quality install, you focus on having Sound Quality which is hard to have when worrying about being loud.

Hifonics has a failure rate that I wouldnt want to deal with or take a chance on to see if mine would be one of the ones that fail or not. Plus you say you hear bad things about them so why by something were this is mixed reviews on it, that would be a sign too. I also was in this boat myself thinking about buying Hifonics or Audioque over Sundown but glad I choose otherwise. If your tired of wasting your money on low end products then why are you even talking about spending your money on Hifonics, that is being hypocritical right there. Id rather buy new myself over refurbished but I would buy refurbished Sundown anyday over a brand new Hifonics amp. Just my .02

Nope it is the Christmas Sale price:

Yeah all rockfords do more than rated power, that is even what their birth sheets claim. But the Sundown is known to put out its rated power and some at 12volts but the main deterrent to me would be price and as said above the lack of a variable sub sonic filter (you cant change it on the Rockfords, it is a contstant figure).

Its not my car neither, I was just letting you know what he meant since you didnt understand what he asked (I havent even been paying attention to this topic).

Everything cleared up here today due to the beautiful sunny weather, still have some snow laying around but that is just the areas that didnt catch any sunlight.

If he were to do one sub instead of two subs do you know what the dimensions of that box should be.