jcarter1885

Well nice to have you hear, if it isnt in your budget then go for what is. Yeah I dont blame you for not wanting to spend more money, either amp will do the job (one just cost more).

Just my .02, anything that I have to run below rated ohm load then I wont do it especially when it voids warranty. If you have to run anything below the amps recommended final ohm load then you need to get a bigger more powerful amp, but to each its own. Yeah it can be done and grab you some tenths but why put your amp through that just for some competition (am I a competitor no Im not but if I were I wouldnt do, I would just get more power to run the amp where it should be ran at). There are a lot of people who do run that low or lower with no problems so it is a personal preference that is up to the user.

Some people just dont take time to read what they are in store for when it comes to ordering something custom (and if they have before expect every experience to be the same). I see the read letters on your site telling about the magnets being delayed and the 7 day build time but I guess nobody takes that into consideration. Some expect once they hit pay, there sub will ship out that day or the next day without taking build time or magnet issues being a hiderance. Never knew you guys got that many BTL orders, keep up the good work and great customer service Fi .

, what part of Texas are you from. Sundown doing rated power at 12.8volt range and MB Quart at 14.4 volt range, more wattage by the Sundown and will still do rated power at lower voltages (but this extra power wont be noticeable at all). Whichever fits your budget shoot for it.

Pretty much almost any bolt that is somehow attached to your engine will do as long as if you remove it nothing ill will come of it.

Just set it with a DMM @ 34.64 volts to keep it at 600 watts, dont try to push the amp harder than it can be pushed and you should be fine until you get another amp if need be. I had 600-800 watts on 3 -12" Kicker CVX's (2250 rms total) and it did fine and sounded great.

x2, unless he wants to take make it taking it out easier on him if he were alone (one box per sub would be better).

# 2 Channels @ 40hms: 150 Watts 36A # 2 Channels @ 20hms: 300 Watts 73A # 2 Channels @ 10hms: 300 Watts 94A # 1 Channels @ 80hms: 300 Watts 34A # 1 Channels @ 40hms: 600 Watts 69A # 1 Channels @ 20hms: 600 Watts 95A That amp will be fine, either run each coil to its own speaker terminal for 300 watts a side or run it at a 2 ohm load to the amp bridging it using one set of terminals for 600 watts. Choice is yours.

x2, RF will get the job done as well.

Because they are still ironing out some things, when it is ready for sale they will have them available on the website.

Looking good, what will the other enclosure plans consist of? How do you like Hertz subwoofers, I always wanted to try some?

Your gonna need to do the Big 3 and buy a volt meter and install the amp, then watch your voltage and see how it reacts. If it drops then you will need a secondary battery, more than likely depending on your factory alternator you will need a secondary battery with 1500 watts or more. Take a look at Sundown for that price, the SAZ-1500D or SAE-1200D will fit your application as well.

Knowing Chop he has already calculated for it, actually you dont do any calculations (the subs displacement is zero, so the only displacement you account for is port and bracing if any when mounting sub inverted).

Im definitely gonna order a box from you guys in the near future, cant beat your prices at all and they include shipping

Correct sir...HAT doesn't make an 8-ohm mid. I haven't bought the amps yet...trying to put together a budget. Just picked up everything I need to do the "Big 3" in 0 ga. This is how you should of worded your question earlier instead of - OP's post : "Channel 3 and 4 bridged 4-ohm into the 6.5" mids (320w)" Channel 3 and 4 bridged 2-ohm into the 6.5" mids (more than 320w) and the answer would be no.

You guys are really taking this out of hand, if it is that big of a deal then order somewhere else. Fi is doing there best to get new orders out that come in daily and are retooling a few subs. They are real busy with SBN coming up and you can tell cause at least they will get on here once or twice a day during the week to answer a few questions and handle matters like these. But they cant stop every thing they are doing to answer why my custom sub has not came like they stop taking orders when you ordered yours, yes we know it can seem unprofessional to you but staying behind the scenes a few extra minutes to get your sub to you should be better than answering a 1000 emails on the same topic. I do understand that you guys spent money and feel at least they can answer your email but that would slow the work in getting your woofer to you, so have some patience. When they get a free chance they will get to you and get your situation handled (answer emails and forum questions), also take into account Tax Season (every body has spare money to spend on car audio equipment). Not giving Fi excuses but just telling you the reality of life and sometimes things happen. So lets not get this out of hand and dont let this be a deterrent to stop you from ordering from them. I hope you guys matters get resolved soon.

This is the dude I think, your talking about ask him: Wtb/Wtt for 2 10s thats handle 3k rms daily - SSA Car Audio Forum

I read what he said no need to yell (wont prove anything, calm down buddy). You said enlighten me on why running 8 ohm speakers would be good and I did. OP's post : "Channel 3 and 4 bridged 4-ohm into the 6.5" mids (320w)" Now you read it, nowhere does it say the speakers are 4 ohm, it says can he run those two channels bridged at 4 ohms while channels 1 and 2 are in normal 4 ohm. Now if he meant run the channels bridged at 2 ohms, while each speaker is 4 ohms is a different story.

Did you read the post or are you just trolling? They are 4 ohm mids. He wants to run 2 of them bridged off 2 channels of his 100.4. No one said there was anything wrong with 8ohm drivers, but if you care to enlighten me how this would be a good thing go ahead. Definitely not trolling, here do some reading why dont ya: Why loudspeakers should all be rated at 1W/1m - SSA Car Audio Forum - Page 2

The KLMX wire can only hold loads up to 250A while the Kolossus can handle loads over 300A, read the description of each wire they give on their website it tells you in there.

Deka Intimidator for cost reasons and more power.

Never heard of the company before, if it is needed in your install then it is a good processing unit but if not then it is a waste.