jcarter1885

I was the one who did the calculations that it is 29in^2 per port area, just to see its relationship compared to the "general rule of thumb" which we were supposed to go by. I feel as though companies like Fi shouldnt put that on there website (even if it is a starting point) then others get bashed for something they thought was right from start including me (that is misleading the consumer). Instead for each driver put how much port area is required and stop steering the consumer in the wrong place. Id rather they give the formula so I can do the math then be bashed for information I thought was to be followed since the MANUFACTURER said to follow it. It is to many he say or she say rules in car audio and healthy debates like these help weave out all the bs. I appreciate Duran for passing the formula on and will be using from here on it then the in^2/cube rule we see on a daily basis.

Why would the place its made make you not happy, the performance and only the performance should .

Just play with the phase to see which one sounds better in your system, no magic way to set that up.

Wow, what a difference it makes just to clean up some wire (good job) . Looks nice, real nice.

Congrats, dont forget pictures and a build log when doing the install

Depends on listening habits and what not. I would get a good battery under the hood and install a voltmeter, after installing your equipment watch your voltage. If your voltage falls then you need more electrical upgrades and if not then you will be fine. Start with a battery, volt meter and make sure you complete the Big 3 then go from there (more than likely you will need a secondary battery or ho alternator or both).

You can get 3br/2ba for under a $100, maybe you guys should come to Texas

Sounds like you guys where using particle board instead of mdf, sure it was mdf?

Yeah I understand, go measure your stock location (this will help us help you more).

They probably mean between the source unit and whatever is next such as crossovers or amps, that is how most line drivers are. Why do you think you need it?

Yeah I figured you were leaving that in there should of said substage instead of soundstage. Well good luck with it

Well I appreciate it, will definitely get those figures from Jacob tomorrow so I can find a port length for my new enclosure since I may not have enough port area.

29in^2 per cube(for a 5ft^3 ported enclosure) seems like a lot even if you dont go by enclosure size.

I likey the idea, so you just gonna leave the truck without a soundstage for now? Im tuned in

No more comparison threads, start a topic explaining goals and sound preferences (music you listen to) so we can focus on what fits your needs. Then we can help you narrow done a subwoofer and then an enclosure that will fit your goals. Also dont forget about a budget and electrical upgrades you have done if any.

Give us more information than that.

Excellent weekend this weekend and dont want it to end, longer days and shorter nights FTW. This is my time of year since it has good weather, more sunshine and the ladies in some sexy clothes. :dancing:

tell me how to tell the difference bw rms and max watts in this part ....please .... that all i saw so i responded....... i dont need to look up the specs for him..... There is no difference because "max" ratings don't exist. We only deal in root mean square(RMS) wattage. x2, I dont even talk about max or read it like you do Hans (you even stated max in previous post). Yeah I didnt have to look it up for him either but it made it easier and faster to do it instead of bitch about him doing it (it doesnt hurt to open a search and try, I will go the extra mile sometimes). It is easy Hans, just type in the number in a search bar and one amp will pop up for the Infinity 1600 w amp, one amp will pop up for the Almani 1500 class D. He already said he had a Kenwood 600 w amp (rms number) the same as the Kenwood 800 w amp (rms number), I didnt even look up the power acoustik since I wouldnt even recommend the amp period. SEARCH is how to tell the difference, if I couldnt tell then I would of had him go get the model numbers (just that easy).

It all depends on budget and space available like stated before, I already gave you a good suggestion XS Power D3400 can be used as your starting battery and support up to 2500 watts for a system (no need for secondary batteries). Give us more information to help you

Knowing Chop he has already calculated for it, actually you dont do any calculations (the subs displacement is zero, so the only displacement you account for is port and bracing if any when mounting sub inverted). I hope you were kidding, displacement of a sub isn't zero, it depends on the sub. The displacement of this sub is probably around 0.23 cu ft or even more. Nice build, i like the box with rounded edges. And i like the sub, real beefy. If you could read I was explaining about the displacement for this install since it is INVERTED, next time read buddy. Thanks though

I didnt say get them or anything I was just stating a fact and letting you no there is no such thing as underpowering so you can store it in your head for future knowledge.

Yeah i used to use them but not anymore, if the light is to bright just put a piece of electrical tape over it that is what I did in the past.

Eh I've ran em and they are good but too expensive for him. Plus they are 1750 rms, would be a waste then for four - not enough power. Also they are more "SQL", so I bet btl's or maybe even the bl's would get louder. (Not that the xcons dont get loud) No such thing as SQL or underpowering a subwoofer.

looking good, keep up the great work