jcarter1885

Depending on your weather conditions and such it will affect how it cures, you should just awhile (give it a few more days since you used so much). I noticed when I first used this stuff last year in the summer, cured in no time. When I last used this stuff about a month ago, it took longer to cure but it did eventually.

Nooooo, install both sets! EDIT: No screws in the box? why both? So it can be loouuuuddd. You have a misconception, it can be just as loud with one set and a good amount of power. Two sets of components in the door is just an install issue, if you want loud then go for equipment that can get you loud such as : horns, supertweeters, efficient drivers and so on.

Nobody can tell you if it will be enough batteries to help out your electrical, your best bet is to install everything and monitor your voltage. Tell us how your voltage is responding and you can go from there, this would be your best bet.

Looks sweet, the inside makes it look like a virtual video game (you sit inside and play but you get the full experience like your racing).

Damn so that is were my foil went , keep up the great work.

Did you visit their website and see what is the smallest recommended enclosure that they say is optimal for the subwoofer, that is where I would of started

Fusing has nothing to do with what an amp is capable of and I hope that is not how you choose your amps, unless you get an amp claiming to do 5000 watts with 120amps worth of fusing on it.

I would use my ear when setting amp gains for my interior speakers, if your going active then run each set of speakers individually so you can hear the strain on them. It will be hard to tell when a tweeter is straining when you have your midbass and subs blasting too.

Stop listening to what you hear and go with what the website says unless it is a typo, if your really that worried about it then email Jacob about the issue.

I personally dont think it is needed but all that will depend on how the trucks electrical is? I would intsall the amp and speakers with a volt meter and watch the voltage, just cause you have the battery doesnt mean you need to use it. I would either sell it or just hold onto it but I doubt you will need it when just running highs, I run my SAX-125.2 and no voltage drops what so ever and will be adding another amp for my highs next week all off the stock battery. It is hard to tell if and when an electrical upgrade is needed until you hook up the equipment and watch monitor your voltage, so remember that.

I think it will be an average system, what do expect us to tell you?

congrats on reaching your goal, now what is next if you are able to hit this at a show?

Sundown Audio - SAE-1000D Linkable to another SAZ-1000D for 1800 watts @ 2 ohms Could that be a typo, or a Freudian slip? Hehe. Who knows it may be a typo because if you look in the paragraph above, the last sentence states: "The SAE-1000D is also made with the future in mind as two units can be linked together to produce a staggering 1800 watts into a 2 ohm load." Might have to ask Jacob which statement is true.

What battery do you currently have in there and what amps will you be installing? How many amps is your factory alternator?

Ok that is whats up, dont know any other helpful tips off the top of my head as of now.

If it was the same amp, then way make two different titles and casing for it (makes no sense). No they arent the same amp at all, do you know how many amps out there that share the same board. It is way deeper then just having the same boards and so on.

No cant since they are still two different amps inside, just cause they make around the same rms doesnt mean they can be strapped together.

To help with my voltage drops, I added another ground from my battery's negative terminal to the car's chassis so I ended up with two negtiave runs (just a heads up since it may help in your case as well).

No problem man that is what we are here for, good choice on subs.

The difference between the two: Copper Coil: The copper coil is a heavier coil and adds mass to the moving assembly. In comparison to the stock coil, or the flatwound coil, this has the smoothest transitions musically speaking. It is less likely to peak, and is a better overall sub for more Sound Quality based daily drivers. Flatwind Coil: The flatwire coil option simply helps the power handling of the sub. The coil has more surface area to dissipate heat and will take more power then the regular round wire coil that comes in the ‘stock’ version of the sub. This option will also make the sub tend to be more prone to ‘peaking’ for a budget daily driving sub where you don’t have to use a ton of power to get maximum output and sacrifice sound quality a little bit. I would stick with Copper Coil unless you want to compete.

The BP Power is not required but I would get it just for the extra thermal power handling it should give the subwoofer, you should pick the QTS designed for whatever enclosure you want (ported or sealed). The Kicker amp is 2 ohm stable so if you get 2 subs then get Dual 2 ohm and wire them in series to 4 ohms each and they will drop down to a 2 ohm load:

Im not saying you cant reach it but it will take a lot of testing, there are a lot of factors involved. You should find your resonant frequency to see where your vehicle peaks at, tune in that area, lot of port area, good amount of power, the electrical to provide that power and so on. Considering you gave no information or plans to reach that goal it will be even harder to tell you if you would even come close to 149db's.

Same price I would go with Sundown over Hifonics, just my take on it.