jcarter1885

Sounds good and glad you got everything working in your favor, dont forget a build log when your installing (Argent makes great enclosures).

Haha I cant believe you compared this forum to SMD, major epic fail

, you should just buy the pair of L7's if your that confident in them. There are better subs out there for your money and I even like Kicker but for your goals, wrong path my friend.

How are those Crescendo Amps treating you? Been eyeing those puppies for a moment now.

I don't see why people keep downrating your comments, your just telling the truth. Thanks for the help man. Becuase he is giving horrible recommendations without stating any kinds of facts or info to show how throwing this amount of power at those speakers will work with no problems. Definitely deserved negative marks for those. RE Tech support themselves have told me they have personally done this in an active setup. They also told me that this would void the warranty. I was using this statement to back the fact that 250 watts is achievable through these drivers in an active setup if crossed over correctly and properly eq'd. Is it beneficial? Probably not. This was the easiest way to show how durable these speakers are. I am not here to argue, and I am stating facts. I am getting sick of this fucking forum and the people calling others out over nothing. I have received false information from many people, including a couple of you, and am not calling them out. You make an unpleasant atmosphere for people here that are trying to get information. On SMD I have posted the same topic and received a completely different view and perspective on what to do with my front stage. Just an example. There is more than one point of view on things. Please don't respond back with an argument to this. It's pointless and I will not respond back. What is in bold and underlined is how you should of stated it the first time instead of just saying they can handle 400 watts in an active setup (most of the power is there just for headroom and clean power without causing distortion). Dude get your panties out a bunch and calm down, act like a grown man. Nobody is arguing with you, you just gotta learn everyone on a forum has a different knowledge level than you or I or others. So making a post telling someone they can handle 400 watts is ridiculous without giving any extra information, also someone having 400 rms doesnt mean they are receiving the whole 400. Its is a way you have to word the information your giving and also give more information than they can be ran active on 400 rms. Do you know how many people will see this and decided they will get these speakers can they handle that much power and then get them just to blow them. Nobody is bashing you, just gotta learn how to spread information collectively and responsibly so others will get an understanding. You see how many topics there are about how much a BTL can take or other subs for that matter since people are going around just saying something like my BTL can take over 4000 watts (with no other information, what does that leave some people to believe). Dont compare forums, two different atmospheres with different type of people so off course you will get different responses. Common sense would tell you if there was one way to do things then there would be no reason for a forum so that is very obvious.

X2 that is like saying will my amp that is rated at 1ohm run a 1.33 ohm load!! more resistance = less current! less current = easier on your cars electrical!!

I don't see why people keep downrating your comments, your just telling the truth. Thanks for the help man. Becuase he is giving horrible recommendations without stating any kinds of facts or info to show how throwing this amount of power at those speakers will work with no problems. Definitely deserved negative marks for those.

You can look at Audiopipe 3000 watt amp it is 2 ohm stable, you first need to give a budget. You wont find anything cheaper for the power you want, plus it does not take 3000 -4000 watts to push a BTL. The recommended rms is 2000 watts and if you dont know what your doing then stick with that, just cause you see someone doing something doesnt mean you need to unless you want to damage your new subwoofer. Your also gonna need to put some money aside to upgrade your electrical or your gonna have even more problems, I hope you thought this system out ahead of time instead of just buying the sub with the most rms you can. If so this will be a major fail especially if on a limited or small budget

Just use one of those subs and sell the others, it is not good to mix subwoofer so dont do it.

since they are on backorder they will recieve the magnets then and knock out as many as they can get too....only time can tell

, option number 1 would be better if you dont ever plan on running active.

It will come down to what electrical upgrades you have in the car, hopefully the Big 3 and a spare battery may help. But the only way to tell is to install the amp and a voltmeter and monitor your voltage then make an assessment from there depending on your voltage drops.

No way to tell, not a good way to go about purchasing a sub. Give goals, maximum dimensions of what can fit, amps being used, electrical upgrades already done or will be doing in the future, budget and etc. More information if you want quality help.

Yeah the sale went through and right now just stuck between two setups, either a Sundown Nightshade V.2 15" or 2 SSA Icon 12"s in a 3.5ft^3 enclosure tuned to 30Hz. Both will cost around the same price just need to decide which will be better for me and my goals (killer low end with amazing output).

Mounting under the dash affects imaging and staging and frequency response at the listening position, not really the efficiency. OP: What horns do you have currently? I find it hard to believe you wouldn't be able to obtain the output you are looking for out of a quality set of high efficiency HLCD considering a single pair would literally be able capable of deafening you. You said you want to step up to Ultra's, which leads me to believe you may have the older CD1e series? In which case yes, I would recommend you step up to an actual HLCD. I was testing my stereo the other day, and with a 1khz test tone playing though my CD2Pro's at a rather uncomfortable listening level I was only getting about .15V out of the amplifier I really wish there was someone in my area using horns. I am VERY interested in getting a set for myself, but i have zero experience with them. They sound like exactly what the OP needs as well as for myself. x2

Sundown SAE-1000D --- $175 shipped - SSA Car Audio Forum

Sounds like a user error rather than a product error, if mounted correctly to where it couldnt ground out then it wouldnt of caused this issue.

To give you a better response instead of just giving you shitty recommendations, go measure your trunk with the room you have available with the amps where you want them (height x width x depth). Once you give us your measurements and budget for subs then we can give you some suggestions on subs.

Dont bridge the amp to 2 ohms since it is not recommended to do so or even stated in the manual, run an amp at what it is supposed to be ran at.

Yes you do since it will give me a chance to get a battery but if I dont get one dont be mad

Considering all he gave you I doubt it or he would of went further in detail.

Yeah they work since nobody spoke on them, if your that worried about them then get some other ones (it wont hurt if there not KnuKonceptz Distribution Blocks). My distribution blocks are made by Street Wires and work perfectly.

Thats definitely not true, I seen gains just by upgrading my ground wires alone. I can agree that Im not getting the full benefit if I did the whole Big 3 process but doing the Big 2 made a difference but to each its own. But if you do it, you minus well do all three wires I will agree with that (since my stock battery is in the trunk Im just waiting till I replace my alternator to do the wire plus its 4 gauge anyway so Im cool for now).