jcarter1885

Sounding good will come down to the box and install, possibly with the box they came in it wont sound good. If not then just get a box built for them, this will be the cheapest route since your strapped for cash.

#5 is my vote but l like #8 as well, if it was a black shirt then it probably would of got my vote

Looking real good

Just dont use it, its not like you need it anyway (your headunit should have a feature to control your subs as well).

Wouldn't that get hot? And why would it get hot?

Maybe it is me but Im not getting accurate results with your box when I compare to other legit programs, I downloaded all versions and network and everything. Just a heads up

How about you tell us whether they are Dual 2 ohm subwoofers or Dual 4 ohm subwoofers, you can also go to this site and play with wiring options: Subwoofer Wiring Diagrams

Of course it wont perfom as well (not in a bad way), you will still have some thermal handling and mechanical handling left in the sub which can be a good thing (an advantage in case you ever want to upgrade). There are no disadvantages of running less than the subs rms to the sub, only if your trying to make your amp put out more power then it can and you start sending dirty signals to the sub. I just put a Sundown Z v.1 15" sub on the same Infinity amp you have (a 1000 watt rms sub) and it freaking pounds like no other, wishing I would of keep the sub for myself. Just a heads up that there is no such think as underpowering, you could always just make your box a little bigger than recommended if you have the room to take up for the low amount of power being used (just another option).

Your budget is kinda low for 2000 watts of power or more, is that all your willing to spend on an amp (dont get a good sub then half ass on an amp).

Looks real good, how does it sound

Im on the search for some 6.5" mids and the Blues seem like they can fit the bill, cant wait for pricing and ordering info to show up. Any word when they will be ready for business?

Any updates on these new subs or small teasers your willing to share with us

x2, you cant tell how your vehicle will react to installing a system until you install it and monitor your voltage. Do as stated above/preveious posts in this topic (do the Big 3, get a voltmeter). Depending on your listening habits, voltage drops and if you plan on adding anymore amps will tell you if need a extra battery or ho alternator or both. What size is your stock alternator?

Yeah it does look better with the roof rack on it but then the more you look at it grows on you, I like it without the roof rack more now

and videos, looking good my friend

thank you. Hey that was my line Duran, take it back or

I cant wait till he receives his and gives his review on the product and the accuracy of its performance next to a TL meter, wouldnt mind having one of these in my possession.

and nice piece of equipment you have just purchased

I dont know but great link, thinking about a pair of these to hold me over, going for a good price.

Read his last post, he explains the reason for the lack of response on there end (seems like they are taking a break during this month for whatever reason).

As loud the meter reads after you get it installed and tested on a TL Meter , the BTL wont let you down.

Never used or seen those type of battery terminals before. You want to fuse after the stock battery and fuse before the battery bank, run all batteries in parallel and then fuse after the battery bank.