jcarter1885

Honestly I dont even remember, I seen it on here one day it is stored on my desktop in one of my many files for car audio.

SPIDER Everyone familiar with a speaker has seen the flexible corrugated woven material that exists just below the cone. This is the spider, which is a part of the speaker that helps maintain linear movement of the voice coil. This maintains control over the entire cone movement. Spiders are generally made of cotton, poly-cotton blend, or conex. They also come in a variety of sizes. However, the major difference between spiders is the number of corrugations, meaning the valleys and peaks, and the heights of these. This is important because some speakers have longer throw than others. The wrong spec spider has the potential to break down quickly and create "spider sag." That can greatly affect the sound quality of your speaker. There are two different styles of spiders. The first is the cup spider. This is generally found on less expensive woofers. A cup spider has sidewalls that are used to give greater depth so that the neck of the cone does not hit the top plate of the speaker under high power. The second is the flat spider, which is used in more expensive/high excursion woofers where every part is designed to fit appropriately. These are inclined to have a more linear movement along with a greater life expectancy. VOICE COIL The voice coil is possibly the most important piece of a subwoofer. This is the tightly wound spool of wire which makes up the secondary part of the motor structure in a speaker. It is physically attached to the cone and spider of the speaker and is submerged in the magnetic gap in the center of the motor structure. When power, AC voltage, is supplied the coil creates an alternating magnetic field that pushes or pulls the coil in and out of the magnetic gap. This movement translates into acoustical energy. A voice coil is made of two main parts; a former (bobin) and a coil: 1) Formers come in a variety of materials for a variety of applications. Some of the more common are mylar, aluminum, or fiberglass. The former is the physical form that holds the voice coil and attaches to the spider and cone of the speaker. 2) Coils create the alternating field within the motor structure. The wire gauge of the voice coil is crucial for determining the power handling of a subwoofer. Wire used for coils comes in three materials: copper, aluminum, and CCA (copper clad aluminum). Equally important is the preparation and curing of the glue used to bond the coil together as well as to the former. Poor glue usage may result in the coil falling off the former, leaving you stranded without bass. TOP PLATE Directly mounted to the underside of the basket is the top plate. This is generally screwed to the basket or staked on using a high power press. The top plate sits above the magnet and directs magnetic flux to the "gap" where the voice coil resides. This works directly with the t-yoke to create a magnetic field. In turn, this magnetic field reacts with the alternating field produced by the voice coil, consequently moving the voice coil forward and back within the gap. Steel is the only material used for top plates. These are generally of the low carbon variety, for carbon acts as a speed bump for magnetic energy. High carbon content can greatly reduce the amount of force provided by the magnet, and quickly saturates the top plate. Luckily, low carbon steel is cheaper and considerably reduces the cost of producing subwoofers. MAGNET The life force of the speaker. This is generally the part that most everyone judges a speaker by. This is understandable. To most individuals, the larger the magnet, the better the speaker. Unfortunately, that is not always the truth. But what is the magnet to a subwoofer? This is the object between the back plate and t-yoke that provides the counter force to the voice coil. Generally a ferrous material that, like iron, retains a magnetic field constantly. These magnetic fields are referred to as flux lines. Using metal plates, the top plate and the t-yoke, the magnetic fields can be controlled and concentrated to another area, in this case the voice coil gap. T-YOKE Take the back plate of the motor structure and the pole piece that extends up to the center of the voice coil. The combination of these two is referred to as the t-yoke which provides a method of focusing the opposing force of the magnet back up to the location of the top plate. This opposing force creates a magnetic field with the top plate that is used to create a reaction with the alternating field created by the voice coil. As with the top plate, the t-yoke uses a low carbon steel structure. This steel structure in many cases serves another purpose: Ventilation. By boring a hole through the pole piece, air is then moved back and forth to effectively cool the voice coil. As well, the pole piece of the t-yoke also pulls heat from the voice coil, acting as a heatsink. Both can have a tremendous effect on power handling of the woofer. And today's speakers employ various forms of trickery to further improve the ventilation. Check out these speaker cutaways for these fine cooling techniques.

Search there are about 4 or 5 topics on this issue already, good luck.

Well it seems like you have what you want, are those paint cans stable in that box with the pressure and moving around from driving (dont want to mess up a good box or subwoofer).

10-14 gauge wire will do fine for subwoofers but you can go bigger if you want to, just a preference thing thats all.

Either what was suggested earlier or turn your box around and seal the cabin off from the trunk.

I wouldnt use a battery that is not intended to for car audio use in the car for audio use especially if your pushing it to its limits. But there is no problem with putting a battery in your truck as long as it is mounted okay and secure, my stock battery is in the trunk (along with a lot of other cars) and my secondary will be back there as well. No problems or smells at all, the only time I had a smell in my car was when my Optima swelled up and busted (this was user error).

You're right i don't want that hassle but it already is wired to the ignition wire. Something is fucked up with it.. it'll be all good to go but once the wires move (all wire zip tied together) the problem happens again. It seems like your wiring is shorted out in your original factory wiring so tap into a fuse like suggested above and it will work fine. I have had my radio like this for over a year now, with no problems at all. If you blow the fuse that it is tapped into then just up that fuses amperage a little since the head unit is now drawing power from it. If you need some pictures I can get you some, let me know.

yup i did... i waited a couple more hours later and drove around again at idle is at 13.1 and when system is full tilt it drop ti like 12.2 a little tiny bit better but nothing i can do w/o a h/o alt sooo....... but thanks for they help guys always appreciate it Is that 13.1volts at idle, when music is playing or when music is off?

Glad you got everything situated, just make sure your set your gain correctly buddy.

It seems like your going about this the wrong way, you only want subs to last you for a year. What is your budget as well?

It doesnt matter if the subwoofers are power hungry, you can only give out how much power the amp has available. I also see that you are running your amp's gain setting too high especially if you have a headunit with 5volt preouts so it sounds like you may be clipping your amplifier. Turn your gain down like stated above, the gain is used to match the output voltage from your headunit (its not a volume controller).

So is the BTL physically damaged or was it just a voltage issue that didnt affect the subwoofer?

Did you calibrate your stinger voltmeter to read accurately.

If you unhooked your negative cable on your battery when installing the amplifier then make sure you settings on your headunit didnt change and put the subwoofer volume at 0. Check to make sure you plugged the rca's into the input rca jacks and not the output rca jacks on the amp. Couple of simple solutions, hopefully it is nothing major. Where did you get the amp from, was it new or used?' Turn bass boost off and your subsonic filter up some.

Double congrats and enjoy your blessings. :fing34:

Definitely sounds like some new Linear Power Amps could be used in my application in the future, thanks for the update fellas. I seen a Linear Power Amp at the pawn shop the other day, the sexy purple color (if I didnt want some new ones I would of picked that up).

Measure the volume of the cans and convert that into cubic feet, that should tell you how much extra displacement is in your enclosure. Do you have the actual specs of your enclosure to do some math to calculate your current tuning with the added paint cans.

I was thinking the same thing. Why the hell would I seal a BL? Nobody recommended for you to actually seal your BL, we gave you all the available options on how to deal with having an insufficient sub sonic filter. Pick the option that will help you out or is relative to your application . I cant tell you to use those little rca's because I dont have experience with them but it wouldnt hurt to try them.

I cant comment since I have never heard either sub but I will let someone else with experience on both subs comment but it will come down to install at the end of the day.

Nobody has them in stock at this moment, IIRC they should be back in stock towards the end of this month or in June.

, I pictures