jcarter1885

The drivers definitely do look nice and they are real beefy, Im kinda suprised that they are pro audio mids that will drop that low (seems pretty impressive so far).

If you want a price tag on the SMD, then contact the AA Dealer in your area or on this forum and ask (that is the only way to get the real price )

Im not going to tell you to use a cap or not since its your money and you think it will help you. But if you have the correct grounds, alternator and wiring then if your still dimming then you dont have the correct grounds, alternator, battery or wiring. Make sure you do it right instead of throwing a band aid on your problem.

Yeah Im a youning, just 25 years young but feel 25 years old.

Here's a pic of the board. What were you doing 7-25-1991? I was living in Miami, just moved there since my dad was transferred from Dallas, Tx with his job for Ryder (remember the big yellow trucks ). I was just starting kindergarten that year, damn I have a good memory.

Never seen or heard of them, definitely must be before my time in car audio. Looks like a nice piece of equipment

Thanks for that little bit of information, currently I run some Oxygen (O2) Audio OM-605ND midrange and they are some of the best pro audio speakers that I have heard so far. I have listened or owned: Eminence, Beyma, Selenium and B&C speakers. The only problem with the O2 speakers is they are hard to get, I only know of a couple of places to get them and one is in Tallahassee, Fl. Since I wont be back there till next year I need some new Midrange speakers that I dont have to worry about getting them in one location that wont mail them to me if I ever needed more like right now. Im off to check out the thread.

Carpet the box if you have the carpet and dont mind putting the work into it, if you dont care then just leave it as is.

That is what I understood. But I see a lot of guys running 2 batts without upgraded alternator. Why ? Maybe HO alt are too expensive? (I'm sure I can't find one for my car). A lot has to do with the stock alternator. Some stock alternators are 130amps+ but some are only 60amps. If you have a good stock alternator and not a huge system, then adding batteries first makes all the sense in the world. Doing the Big3 and adding a solid battery make a big difference, but if you are putting in a big competition system then the alternator is a good start. I know a lot of customers that are running 5000watt+ systems and still running their stock alternator with a pretty good battery bank. Just depends on the person and set up. With that being said I have a question for you Nate. Today I was shopping around for a HO Alternator for my car, I found one which is a good thing. Considering Im not a competitor and will be running a SAZ-2000D (@ 1 ohms) and a highs amp (no more than 700rms), would I need an HO Alt for my application. Saturn Ion-2003 Big 3 will be done in 3/0 AWG, stock alternator size (105 Valeo Alternator), and I will be purchasing the S3400 and D925 for batteries. Thanks for the input. What will be the advantage of having an HO Alternator if I do go that route, would I need a HO Alternator with my setup?

Any word on what they are planning for the pro audio side, Ill probably just call them tomorrow (looking for one or two pairs of 6.5" Mids).

No dont stop, keep on working

That's what they make loctite for... superglue is very brittle in comparison. Thanks for that little bit of information, I will definitely make note of that and purchase some for the future.

So you decided to go with the 15" I see, nice move. Good choice on equipment and Im tuned in , have you started on the box yet?

Thats a badass picture and Im definitely liking the new wheels. Any updates on the audio side of the truck?

To be honest with you, members on this forum will respond more to pictures. We give a shit as well, its just that pictures = I want to see the pictures and sorry for being a

Did you ever put the rims on?

and that tells us ?? That tells us that we need to go to books a million and pick up a PasMag if you want info before they are released

I had the same problem with my spoiler and the best solution to get it to stay down is super glue. Just but a good amount of super glue on the bolt and twist the nut into place. Then place super glue over the nut where it meets the bolt and around the nut where it meets the trunk, let it dry. My spoiler has not came loose since I did the super glue method over 3 years ago, just recently I sprayed expanding foam over it as well. Hope that helps.

Yeah yours is v2, enjoy.

Thanks for the input, what I plan on doing is adding to the 1/0 AWG wire that is already there (basically they will become the factory wires in the future). Basically the factory wires will be 1/0AWG and the Big 3 wires will be 3/0 AWG.

If your going to build a box that will take up the whole trunk area then forward facing would be the route to go, make sure you seal off the cabin from the trunk.

Tell me about it, I've had my SAZ-2000D in my room since I got it in July and it still hasnt seen any action at all along with some other equipment. Good luck with build

You wont fit a 18" in there unless your using a Treo subs since they require smaller than normal boxes or a sealed enclosure. Are you running sealed or ported? The best placement will come down to testing but usually forward firing and the cabin being sealed from the trunk will be the loudest but testing will give you the best answer.

Fffin' sweet , your doors are little sub enclosures. I even like how you wrapped and covered the whole were your tweeters were at. :fing34: :fing34:

, Since both do around the same amount of power then get the cheapest one if your concerned about budget, if budget is not a factor then get the more costly one.