jcarter1885

The only way to tell if the stock alternator will do is for you to install and start playing your music and see if it holds up. If you dont have the money for an alternator and you want to buy batteries first then go for it but a alternator will be best first electrical upgrade I would do if cash was right. Make sure you do the Big 3 as well. Here's a start:

bad grounds or bad headunit rca shields, try another headunit or mp3 player

Have you tried looking on the internet to find the manual, go to the company's website and look under there technical or support section. But it may be something besides the headunit thats the issue. Do you have another amp, headunit or sub to check to see if those components are working individually?

Read the manual that came with it, make sure you have all connections right and make sure even the rca's going into the amp are in the right location.

If it is not on the site then it probably has not been added or updated yet.

Its not that, just like anything else in car audio. You have to pick your goals and make compromises to get what you want. If you need opinions on products or something then ask but yeah if you never went active or dealt with PA speakers then it will be more challenging then just picking the right pair of components.

Yeah it is weldingsupply.com wire and to be 4/0 gauge wire it is rather flexible not the best but considering the size it bends where it needs to just takes more pressure.

It was 12 125 ah batts, under the picture it said I was selling 9 of them. The guy just came and got them, the other three are going in the civic. Well I read it wrong and I didnt watch the video, my fault.

So what is going in the car besides 19+ batteries?

Here is some 4/0 welding wire and lugs for you guys to look at, call me Mr. Overkill but preparing electrical for a big build in the near future. This wire will be for my Big 3 Ground wires: 1 run from engine block to chassis and 2 runs from battery to chassis.

Its either a bad ground or the headunit rca shields sound jacked since you say it happens when the car is running. Try an ipod directly connected to the amps when car is running this will help you figuring out if it as a headunit or ground issue.

Yeah it is steep but great quality and you get what you pay for, sometimes that is your only option. The alternator for my car is way more than that so your lucky, but only a couple places make them for my vehicle and Id rather by from DC Power than anybody.

If worried then tell him to add some wood blocks in there and and bring the internal volume down to 1 ft, another alternative but smaller power handling will be the only factor with a bigger box.

I dont see a hpf level adjuster on the .pdf"]amp owners manual, just got done looking at it. These are how your settings should be Level = 30-40% (until you find out your pre-out voltage and set it more accurate) Subsonic = 50% or a little higher, if sub is reaching its excursion limits to much then turn it up (28/29Hz should be were you want to be around) HPF = 0% (you dont have to touch it) X-Over Switch = LPF LPF = 60-80/90Hz depending what sounds good and where you have you midbass crossed at. Bass EQ = 0%

What headunit do you have? Find out the pre out voltage of the output rca's and match the level on the amp to that voltage, for example if the preout voltage is 2volts for the headunit then that is where you match the gain/level knob on the amp. No bass boost/bass eq, can be used in some situations but in most cases it can cause harm to someone who doesnt understand its use or how to use it.

I doubt it if your just going to replacing the one you have now, I know they made upgrades to it but nothing that the ear will hear.

How do you like it compared to your Q's, any pros or cons? Glad you got some bump already

I'm assuming it's 200w/ch @ 4ohm given the name......is the power supply too weak to support more power at lower impedances? Or another design constraint such as current capabilities on the output transistors? For some reason a lot of companies have been doing this practice lately with there 4 and 2 channel amps, giving a lot of power at 4 ohms and not double that at 2 ohms like they used too. IA, Audioque just to name a couple of others

Yeah the 15" should hit harder and be louder since it has the cone area advantage, the should be able to hit the same frequencies while one just has a slight advantage.

Yeah they get as loud just, but sound different. The Crescendo has the car audio speaker sound with some pa speaker sound involved while the Selenium just has the pa speaker sound. Thats the best way I can describe it, if you dealt with the two different kinds of speakers then you will know what im talking about.

I have 500 watts on a 100 watt midrange driver as well and have not had any issues for months, if you do it right you will have no issues at all.

Im not great at reviews but Ill try to give one as best as possible, if I had to choose between the two then I would choose the Crescendo CCX65 Mids over the Selenium 6W4P's all day. Both pair of speakers were put on there recommended power levels and crossover ranges. The Crescendo's have a better midbass and that has to do with the frequency response being lower than the Selenium drivers. The midrange is about the same but the Selenium has an edge and has to do with it having a higher frequency cut off point than the Crescendo Mids but that is not that noticeable. When it comes to music the Crescendos seem to be more smooth and detailed instead of being made or designed for a few features like the Seleniums. The Depth is shawoller on the Crescendo, the driver's magnet is not as big among other things that were small factors that play into the review. My for sale post should tell you which speaker I liked more since I selling the Seleniums and keeping the Crescendo mids so far, plus the Crescendo mids are much cheaper as well.

and welcome

You got a lot of new toys that you are keeping a secret with over there, Im thinking about the SAX-200.4 already (that would be perfect, just one amp for mids and highs).

Got some wire and a nice crimping toy until I step up to a hydraulic crimper. 2/0 welding wire and lugs for run from battery to distribution blocks for amps (power and ground). My 4/0 welding wire should be here by weeks end to do some Big 3 Wiring.