jcarter1885

You dont have to get a solenoid or isolator if you dont want to, wont harm your system at all. If anything one day upgrade your starting battery to a dry cell as well, a shuriken if you want to have matching batteries. Wire it the way you have it in the picture and do the Big 3 Wiring in 1/0 and you should be set, put fuses where they belong. If you plan to do a lot of jamming with the car off then yes you will need an isolator/solenoid between your batteries.

As far as fitting an 18" ported enclosure in an Impala I dont know but if you can then you will be ok with that amp, run the sub at 2 ohms and get a nice electrical to back it up (Big 3 Uprgrade, Extra Battery). Big 3 When did you order the sub, you may have time to email Fi car audio with your information and see if you can get them to change it to a 15".

Congrats

Looks good , do you think the grills will be in the way of the subs when they have a good amount of excursion?

Whats the new subwoofer?

If doing the Big 3 is an issue for you then get someone to do it for you, it may $40 or more but at least it wont be a hindrance to you getting a better system installed in your car. Buy the materials to get it done and find someone to do the labor for you. At least do the grounds if you can (engine block to chassis and battery to chassis) and get someone to do battery positive to alternator positive.

Get what ever is in your budget since both will get the job done, the AudioQue may do more power but with either installed in a setup you wouldnt tell the difference if you swapped one out for the other (maybe on the meter slightly).

Look online for you car's wiring diagram and you will find one easily that will tell you what colors are what wires for your factory speaker wiring.

Most people wont, while some people will. There are people out there whose systems will out value there cars, its not a question of would you buy it. Obviously we know the average person wont but someone will, so dont focus on what you wont but but focus on what you would buy. It was made for a reason and there selling enough of them to keep making them. Everytime I tell my friends how much my subs or amps cost they look at me like Im crazy, your gonna buy a $600 sub and $800 amp.

Thats like a lot of things in life , there are $10-20 bottles of Hennessey and there are $3000-$6000 bottles of Hennessey as well. Some things are not made for everyone to have but trust me some people out there will buy it and enjoy it.

When it comes to some companies you are just paying for the name, other companies you are paying for the extra advertising and then there are the ones where your paying for all the research/development and quality of product they are producing. Focal is up there with the latter of the three, is it the best no but far from the worst. It depends what your going for and what your needs are, components can be costly. When you go component shopping you will find that out, but sometimes the most expensive model is not always the best model to ear or for your application with some companies (I noticed that when I went Hertz shopping)? I like Hertz the best and then Morel, hopefully I can hear a pair of Bravox one of these days.

If I got the 100.4D I was gonna get a shelf board for home depot for a few dollars and attach it to both seats so you can put a large amp on it, if you have 60/40 fold seats. It also helps so now you can pull both seats down at the same time, check out my build log for an idea of what im talking about.

Since you have a nice size alternator I would get another battery for now and see how that holds up against the way you play your system, if your voltage drops a lot then start looking into an HO Alternator. It doesnt hurt to start pricing alternators now so you will have an idea of what you will need to spend when the time comes.

There are a lot of amps out there, if you dont plan on upgrading then go with the Kicker amp since it does its power at 2 ohms. Otherwise you will have to buy a more expensive amp that does most of its power at 1 ohm but the power you need at 2 ohms, this will be more costly but it gives you the advantage of upgrading you substage in the future and not worry about having to upgrade the amp.

It tells you in the description of the product if you read it.

I only use Knukonceptz Kolossus Fleks Kable from my distribution block to my amplifiers for there power and ground wires. Everything else in the car is welding cable, just how I roll

Well find a way to get something close to original packaging before sending it in to avoid further damage to the sub. You also need to figure out if you were clipping it or whether or not you didnt have enough voltage to keep the amp with power, find out the source of why your sub stop working before reconing and just dropping it back in to have the same thing happen.

Nice way to tackle the rear deck, what do you plan on covering it with?

Change the ground for both units if you want to ground them together or find a better way to ground the EQ since once you installed it you got engine noise. Check this thread out as well:

x2, but if for the better then hey cant argue with that. Nice start and cant wait to see where this is going

I have never seen a car audio amp that didnt need a remote start but I guess you learn something new everyday.

No I dont know what you mean, never heard a sub that could get loud and sexy. Give us a good description of what you want and we can go from there, we need to find out what fits your goals. Both are easy to get, get in contact with a dealer (there are a couple on here) so getting the product is not a problem. But if you feel as though that is too hard for you to do then I guess BL is your route if those are the only two subs your interested in. Good luck with decision