jcarter1885

Reread what you just wrote

Your asking an impossible question to answer, either pick one or the other or buy both and let us know which one is louder. Its all install dependent, 15" BL should be louder but someone can make the 8's louder than the 15" as well.

This amp is under your budget and you will have some headroom as well: http://www.audioque.com/aq/?page_id=26

Yes it was a great day, I was drinking Hennessy Black all day yesterday and I went outside at 4pm while it was hot as balls outside. I sweat out all my alcohol just to get this installed, only took me like 20 minutes at teh most. I wasted gas yesterday and just rode around my city jamming, enjoying my tunes.

x2, once you amp your fronts you wont even notice that there are no rears. I used to be a person who thought I needed rears and all that but you will have the same surround with just a front stage, my seat is back as far as it can go and I can hear my fronts perfectly. Now if it is a personal preference to have rears then go buy some coaxials that can be played of the amp or headunit.

Im gonna order another amp so this will probably be taken out in a few days, I didnt even mount the amp but I dont like how the knobs are on the underside of the amp or how the cooling is down there neither.

On 300-400 watts after a couple of minutes:

Lets get this back on topic fellas plus I doubt Sean has ever looked up alternators for every single BMW. OP the only advice I can give you is search for h/o alternator threads and find the reputible companies you want to deal with then call them. Most h/o alternator companies tend to do better if you call them rather than email them, I wish you the best of luck.

Im pretty sure more than the two amps you have now, I dont even think its worth it to upgrade to another amp. I would worry about my electrical first but thats just me

I spy triple baffle, FTW!

Which way do you have the box facing, sub and port position as well? What is your port area for starters as well and any more information you want to add? What kind of batteries do you have?

Box is finished being painted, sub should be here tomorrow.

Same thing I was thinking, Ill just have to find somewhere to do some changes while holding it. I will think of something but its a first for me as well. I like the how it sounds but I know that is cancellation somewhere between the mids and tweeters, the tweeters are too sensitive to be facing towards the mids so they drown them out. Its temporary and i can deal with it but within the next few weeks I will be taking care of that issue. But it sounds good and its still loud so im satisfied for now.

Sounds like a good plan and I will do that with my next box. I need one more can of black gloss spray paint to finish the front and bottom baffles second coat then Im done. Trying to decide if I want to buy a new headunit and battery before installing the sub, box and amp in the car. My current unit has two pre-outs and I want one with three pre-outs so I dont have to use a y-splitter but we will see. On tomorrow I will be picking up the Zv.1 15", if you want pictures go back to the beginning and you will see them since they sub doesnt look any different.

:popcorn:

Looks like a beast for 600 watts

Glad to hear you got your problems situated.

second that. Dont want to sound like a nut-hugger but x3 to that

It much more complicated then what I wrote, not to be a smart ass but here is what I learned and then expanded from it. Use what Im about to type until you read up on crossovers/slopes and how all that works, then what I wrote earlier will make more sense. If your low pass filter is set at 60hz, it will play frequencies from 60hz on down to wherever it cuts out. If your high pass filter is set at 60hz, it will play frequencies from 60hz on up to wherever it cuts out. The sub sonic filter is a high pass filter used to set a bandwidth crossover setup. So for example if you want your sub to play from 30-60hz. You will set your low pass filter at 60hz and your sub sonic filter at 30hz, this way it wont play above 60hz or below 30hz. You can do the same thing for your mids if you were running active. You could set your mids to play from 65/80hz to 3000hz, low pass at 3000hz and the sub sonic at 65/80hz. Just an example and hope it helps.

You beat me to it, good one Sir

thanks..i just need alittle patience even though every day it gets worse..but soon enough it will be here. Ill be working third shift to get it done! you and me both buddy.

Looking good man, cant wait till you get the car and start intalling.

If your Low Pass Filter is set at 40Hz, it will play frequencies unattenuated from 40hz on down. From 40hz on up it will start dropping off significantly. The opposite for High Pass Filter, if it is set at 40hz then it will play from 40hz on up.