jcarter1885

Show some pictures of your two Zed Amps side by side, i want to see some Plexi Sexyness

X2 Stop crying guys and like one of the rules say "your gonna get answers your post that you may or may not want to hear" so get some thicker skin. Who can actually tell how someone is coming off in an internet conversation and if you can then obviously you arent looking at the content in the message. Your too busy about someone hurting your feelings to actually see how much they really helped you with useful information.

well isn't that cool. I hope your EA alt works well. When I was looking to get a h/o alt I read reviews on iraggi, mechman, ea, and dc. Iraggi, mechman, and EA all had mixed reviews, especially EA's having bad voltage drop at idle, So I went with DC considering they had zero negative reviews. Does the EA alt have a stock size pulley? or is it smaller to compensate? They have negative reviews as well, just not as many and there customer service does help stop the negative reviews from being posted.

The only way to tell is to install it in the vehicle and get a volt meter to keep an eye on the voltage, as well as complete the big 3. If you have voltage drops then you will need to add a secondary battery (personally I wouldnt want to drop below 13.2-13.5volts but everyone has there preferences).

9 times out of 10 no, considering you cant use the old SSD's with the new SSD's. Its going to be some changes that will not make them work together, considering people will want to upgrade there will be plenty of 1st generation btls available.

and welcome

Well considering you went from 1000 watts to 3500 watts, sound quality will be lost since it seems like you were looking for more output when upgrading amps. What does your electrical constsist of?

When it comes to crossovers points, some people underlap/overlap or just use the freqeuency they cut the last driver at and start the new one there. When I was talking to ///M5 I remember him telling me to underlap frequencies, since you dont want to overlap frequencies causing them to play the same frequencies. Underlap means your sub will be at 63hz, and your mids at 80 hz or whatever. Now the frequencies between those should still be played if you use a 12db slope but they will be attenuated (meaning you will hear them but not at full potential or output level). Will you notice it or miss them I doubt it, if Im wrong someone will come in and correct me.

It is low enough for a sub but most people pick there low pass frequency by personal preference or where they have there mids crossed at. I would go sub 63hz and midbass at 80hz for starters in your case, this will give you some room to go up or down with your mids depending on how they sound. In my case since I usually have a low tuned enclosure the highest I go on low pass for subwoofer is 63hz, maybe 80hz but usually I end up turning it back down on some songs.

With a baffle you would be fine, they are not that much oversized but they wont fit into a factory 6.5" speaker hole. Naw im still into car audio, instead of using your everyday car audio speakers for mids/highs I just use pro audio speakers. Pro Audio speakers lack the midbass but make up for it in the midrange region, more sensitive drivers that dont take a lot of power to get loud and clear. Not to much of an sq type of speaker but with eq'ing they can sound good.

Yeah they are 7", Im a PA speaker guy but I lover these speakers. The AA Carbons have great midbass and excellent vocals to be a car audio mid, if I were to go back to car audio speakers these will be the ones I would choose. I have an extra one sitting around that is new, during shipping the paper/cardboard material holding the positive lead ripped. Just need to be glued together, the speaker works flawlessly otherwise. If interested to test out or just use to get an understanding of active i will sell it to you. I was going to use it in a speaker shelf system but looks like Ill never get around to doing that.

Yeah your picking crossover points before you put them into the car, now yes those can be starting points but once you install all that will change. Certain songs will require some eqing will others wont, so you will almost have to scan all your music to finally get them to where you want them. I would lower the subs low pass some, lower the midbass some or find an 8" that can dig a little deeper and run the components passive if it were me. But those frequencies you have can be a start, listen to each set of speakers alone (tweets all by themselves, mids, midbasses and so on). This will help you find the bad in each speaker so you can tune it accordingly.

The vinyl should be a real nice touch.

Get a tape measure and have fun.

At the rate he is going, Sefugi will need his own section. x2 Keep up the good work, engine bay looks killer

Active isnt just throwing speakers in a car and picking a crossover point for them, you can do that but you wont be maximizing performance in output and quality. You will probably never reach the quality that the passive crossovers will provide those components if you go active, especially not on the first/second/third time. You need to understand crossover slopes, frequencies and power plus speaker specs. I wouldnt risk damaging those speakers on trial and error if that was me, I would buy some cheap speakers and learn how crossover slopes/power levels/frequencies all correlate with one another. A year and a half later I finally have active down in the simplest terms and now im moving on to understanding the technical side now, after lots of critical time with no subwoofer I learned going active by gaining experience. It can sound good and just get better with more tuning. I dont want to sway you on going active, I just want you to hear both sides of going active (the good and the bad). But considering the price you paid for those components I would go with the passive crossovers that come with that component set. This will also allow you to have one amplifier like you want and give you the option of more power for your midbass. Just do some more research on going active and sleep on it some. Here is a thread I made a while ago that may help you some:

I would personally do Leviathon if you want one amp and just run Bravox components on first two channels using the passive components that came with it. Will probably sound better than you running them active unless your willing to spend countless hours playing, tuning, testing and doing it all over again. Then use the last four channels for you mids since it seems like your going to be running 8 ohm drivers, this way you can run a mid to 2 channels bridged. Thats just me, hope that helps or gives you some direction. You could always try to find some 4 ohm 8" midbass drivers as well that way they can get more power if you do decide to only run your midbass on your last two channels and bravox components active on first 4 channels.

Just remember guys its not always about cone area or how much power you have, its all in the install and the application. Yeah the 2-12" SSD's win in cone area but did you factor in the motor force of the BTL over the SSD's. In most cases cone area does win but not always when comparing two completely different drivers. I had 3-12" Kicker CVX's on 800 watts of power and was satisfied, yeah sure I could of gave them the full 2250 watts they recommended but did they need it no. Some people will get a BTL on 1000 watts just to avoid from having to upgrade alternators or add big secondary batteries. Would you not buy a porsche because you cant go 180 on the freeway or streets, or do you buy it for its other features and perfomances it still gives you at lower speeds?

Dont go to sleep, clamp wood together and finish box tonight. Just playing have fun man cause this enclosure is going to be fresh when its completed. How are you going to cover it: carpet, vinyl, bedliner?

WTF? Not at all. Even with only 1w the BTL will be louder than any other sub Fi makes with 1w. Really simple. The BTL is made to get the loudest out of all of them, but indeed the enclosure makes WAY more difference than splitting hairs on the driver. edit: note I didn't say you can't get loud with the Icons, just was addressing the idiotic statement in bold I think Bimmerboy had the idea that the OP was going to power the BTL with at least the RMS of the sub, and not just 1w. In which case he would need to spend more money on electrical upgrades. You would use almost the same amount of power on 2 SSA Icons vs 1 Fi BTL, so regardless M5 was right.

, its not always about the power. What is wrong with underpowering a subwoofer, you dont have to give a sub its full rms or double its rms to perform well.

What is your budget on an amp if your interested in buying a new one?

Wow, dont you think your going kinda big if you dont even know what subs to get? Not telling you how to spend your money just make sure you know what you are doing before you jump in the deep end, dont get on the diving board if you dont know how to swim. If you get 2-2500D Sundown Amps then you will need to get 2-D2 subwoofers. If you get 1-4500D Sundown Amp then you will need to get 2-D1 subwoofers. What do you have planned for your electrical and so on?

and welcome