jcarter1885

Naw man I never tried it and doubt I will, having too many problems with my current car and really didnt have a bad problem this summer like I did last summer. I guess I chalk that up to redoing my big 3 and the rest of the wiring in my system, once I got a new crimping tool I replaced all my previously poorly crimped wires. It may be useful dont get me wrong but the engine is gonna get hot regardless so its not to much I can do, those voltage drops are just due to engine heating up from normal opertaion more than the ambient temperature outside (even though it does play a role on the 100 degree days).

Lately in Dallas, TX we have been having 100-108 degree days this past two weeks and I notice that my car stays hot and attracts heat since it is all black. The car is a 2003 Saturn Ion and the hood is 56" x 36" so after doing some research I can up with some better understanding of how I wanna go about this process. I plan on buying two sheets of Heat Wave Pro or Motor Mat Pro(which one would be better?) and just use the extra heat wave for the top of my reat deck in my car to keep a little less heat from that area since my amps will be mounted under their which probably wont help but oh well. I see that it recommends that I lay Damplifier Pro to the hood first and then spray the adhesive on the back of the Damplifer pro and then lay the heat wave pro down, so i plan on laying damplifier pro on my four doors, hood, trunk and rear deck area for now. The whole trunk lid, panels and frames have been sealed with expandable foam last week and was a great success so i wan to finish up this deadening. I decided to start out with 36.50 sq feet of damplifier pro and then go from their, i know it wont be enough but it will give me an idea of how much more ill need dont plan on doing the whole vehicle since the cabin already has .5" padding under the floor from pedals to rear under the back seats. Is their anything else that I need to know, all opinions and help is needed. thankx

Thats exactly what I told him when we talked an hour ago, I did the same thing today to find a draw that i had. If I leave the windshield wiper fuse in on the fuse panel inside my car, my headunit stays on even with the keys out of the ignition. When I unplug the fuse the radio cuts off, somehow it is allowing my ignition to keep drawing power. My car has electrical problems so that is nothing new to me.

x2, thats what I have noticed with my current box which I painted this time. Regardless of how many coats you put on it will look horrible if you take it in and out a lot or if it slides around and hits things. But if you dont have to worry about those issues and your box will stay permanent then paint can be a good cover for an enclosure.

I would go 12" Xcon ported or try to build your own box, you should be able to fit a 15" ported enclosure in your trunk. Go do some measuring and someone should help you with a design. If not then a 12" will still be feasible.

Yeah I though the same thing when I first seen my Boss Amp, I was like not these terminals. Then luckily I had some 8-gauge wire with 8 gauge spade terminals and used those to hook up to the amp. You can still use your 4 gauge just got get some terminals for it or got some strands off and use 8 gauge terminals (the terminals give it a way better look). If they are true 2 ohms speakers then I would get a 2 channel amp that has the power need you need, I just think that Zed Audio may be a little too much unless you keep the gains all the way down. But if you want headroom then go for it, its a beast of an amp as Im looking to get one as well.

If your running it at 4 ohms then yeah you would be okay, just because you see someone running more rms than rated to their sub does not mean everyone can do it. There are special reasons why they are aloud to do that: box size, volume control, good amp settings and all that jazz. Companies give rms ratings for a reason so use them, I just bought a 1000 watt sub and 1300 watt amp. This will give me some headroom but Im not trying to give the sub 1300 rms all day/everyday because I want to keep my equipment. I dont see the point of buying a 600 rated sub to give 1900 watts daily, no if your competing then that is another story.

He wont have to cut his doors, just make a small baffle ring for the speaker.

x2 As long as they play and you can fit 2-15's then I say go for it, I used to live in Florida and heard lots of MMats setups. I like there subs and Im even thinking about getting one of there amps in the future.

I always wondered if those speaker tweaker kits where worth it, even made a thread about them a while back but never got a response. What are you going to put into the doors?

Here go some amp options buddy: http://www.woofersetc.com/p9255/SAZ1000D--Sundown-Audio-1000W-1Channel-Monoblock-Amplifier.htm http://www.woofersetc.com/p6040/ZRS7000D--Cadence-2600-Watt-1-Ch-Competition-Amplifier.htm http://www.woofersetc.com/p6102/TXA1000D--Cadence-Class-D-Mono-Power-1000-Watt-Amplifier.htm http://www.audioque.com/aq/?page_id=26 Also check out the for sale section, amps for sale all day: Check out the Crossfire amp in that thread listed above.

Here ya go

Why not, they are 4 ohm drivers so he could easily run two pairs on a 125.2. Were talking about the mids and not the component set as a whole.

My votes in

I got my new amp today, here are the pictures of a Cadence ZRS-7000D: Packaging Top View Crossover View #1 Crossover View #2 Power/Ground View Bottom View

Why is that, I was thinking of using in my next build? Pm me if you want to keep it private.

Haha "It looks like an alternator" FTW Those mids are bad ass, I cant believe I told you about them before I bought them

Besides the 880 and 800 from Pioneer and Eclipse 7200 what will do 2-way plus sub? Thanks as im in the market for one.

Pioneer DEH-P800PRS http://www.woofersetc.com/p6464/DEHP800PRS--Pioneer-Premier-CD-Receiver-with-High-Quality-Audio.htm Pioneer DEH-P880PRS http://www.woofersetc.com/p4306/DEHP880PRS--Pioneer-Premier-MP3-WMA-AAC-Receiver.htm Eclipse Models http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_ID=8&brand_ID=31&sort=brandName

I thought you had your 12's already or are you still waiting on them to get reconed?

Glad you got it figured out buddy, how has your system been treating other than that? Cant wait for pictures

The only new thing I know of that is a headunit with great features is the Pioneer Stage 4 DEX-P99RS, you can consider the older Pioneer 800 and 880 units as well as the Eclipse units.

Install it and let us know , it should be beneficial or otherwise all amps would be rated at 300 watts.

No problem bromo, in due time we are in no rush at all well at least not me.

Simply because the sub was not made for that intended use, its like using Fi Q's in an all out SPL build tuned at 50hz. If you want to go to a sealed box, then either look at the SSD's or the Q's.