jcarter1885

Pretty much or you have the filter to high on the tweeters so they are dipping that low. Were do you have them crossed at? Depending on how low you are able to cross them will determine what sounds it will produce.

OP this is what I have heard is a cheaper alternative to the Image Dynamics Horns and the route Im gonna go: (2) of these Selenium D2500Ti-Nd-8 (2) of these Image Dynamics V.2 Full-size Horn Bodies (2) of these adaptors Selenium Adaptors This will save you around 300 bucks if you ever go that route, those are the same horns pretty much as the ID's below. But when it comes to Image Dynamic HLCD the question really boils down what do you want to spend, I was gonna go with these if I went with the ID Horns: Mini-Horns Full-Size As Impious stated earlier, when it comes to mids the bigger the better and not the more the better. In my next build Im looking at either a pair of 8''s or 10"s honestly.

The JVC has a wider eq crossover and hd radio, while the Pioneer has a better display screen. This may be a better comparison to the JVC for a few bucks more, has HD radio as well so the fight can be fair: Pioneer DEH-P7200HD Either of these will do the job, flip a coin if you cant decide between the two.

His replies arent negative at all, stop looking for emotion/attitude in a post and look at the useful information in the post. Which is dont use rears at the end of the day, thats all you should of took from his post. Some people rather sugar coat and hold your hand when answering questions and others dont, straight up that simple. OP a rear fill will not be needed in a car as long as your front stage is set up properly, even if you do have people in the back seat. Some people like surround sound or do a rear fill as a personal preferenece, if you desire to do that then look at some coaxials and run them off of hu power. But honestly a nice set of components up front and a good amount of power should be good enough. What is your budget on amplifier and speakers?

Congrats and keep up the good work, great products and customer service will have loyal customers like me forever.

Current Front Stage Equipment: (Sundown SAX-125.2 Amplifier and DB Drive P55D Tweeters) (Boss Audio Havoc-665 Amplifier and Oxygen Audio OM6-90) Current Sub Stage Equipment: (15" SSA Icon D2-Copper Coil) (Cadence ZRS7000D Amplifier) ****Plans are another 15" Icon and a bigger amp, HLCD horns for under the dash.****

For most daily driver systems there really isn't any point. It makes some people feel like they have a bigger dingaling I suppose, and it's "cooler" to say you have 2500w instead of 2kw. In SPL systems it makes sense to pump every last watt through the system as .1db could be the difference between 1st and 2nd. But for daily systems......no. x3 , so true.

When Im buying stuff to complete my current build even though no car outside in the parking lot to put the system in, FTW!

Give pictures of your mounting locations and what all went in to installing these components. This will get you rolling with help from the guys on here.

Whats the xmax, gonna be on them if you figured that out yet?

We bought up all of the Carbon Fiber components that were left in the USA. So there won't be any until a distributor has them and prices will sky rocket. Sorry. well thanks anyway

Just curious as to whether you can get any more CS60CF, carbon series 6.5" two-way component set? If so will pricing be the same as ground pricing or more? Thanks

100hz, look at the first page after the contents page when you open the book and it tells you there. I didnt even know it was fixed, Im glad you pointed that out and I been using mine for a while now on HPF.

Yes I would because the Xcon will still dominate at that level, I had 3-Kicker CVX's on 700 watts and loved it and was more than enough for people to sit in my car and bail out (I wondered what my SAZ-2000D would of sounded like but it wasnt neccessary). Power is not the main concern, why wouldnt you put an Xcon on 500 watts. Does it matter how much it sees, thats like people thinking I got to give a BTL 3000 watts to perform (c'mon man). It has to do more with Goals, Application and so on. Would you not get an Xcon cause you dont want to get a 2000 watt amplifier or want to upgrade your electrical, I would still get it. Just cause you wont dont rule out what others will do, everyone is not the same or even thinks the same. You buy what you can afford and so on. The whole point is to get all the available information before making suggestion, that is what we are here to do. Just saying I have an Xcon, what amp will I need is not enough. OP please provide more information about your build and what you plan on doing or not doing or what you have already done to the car. Such things as electrical updrades, box size and so on.

Your not understanding what were saying, regardless of power handling of a woofer (you shouldnt pick an amplifier off of it, that should not be a determining factor). Thats just a recommended rms and really doesnt mean much considering a 500 watt amplifier or 2000 watt amplifier can either kill it or be enough for your goals and application. Enclosure Size Listening Habits Goals Specific Application And so on, should be asked before just giving random suggestions on what would work. I never pick an amplifier to match the rms of my woofer/speaker/tweeter

x2, funny that nobody said anything about enclosure size or the electrical required that you will need to power the amplifier. Budget on amplifier would help as well? It seems as though you only want Sundown, are you open to other options as well?

Now that you given the proper information then yes believing you is not a problem even though I would want a higher voltage then what you have. See how easy it is when you follow the posting rules and given all available information. I listed these subs right here as being something that you can look it, does it mean they will meet your goals (who knows): BTL n2 (even if it is better than the previous model it is hard to compare a sub that is not out yet) AA Mayhem IA Warden Rival Mobile Electronics A12.22 (talk to rushnrun on here) These are just a few that may/may not help you reach your goals, do you have a budget for a sub or is it unlimited? Its not that no one wants to help but your question is subjective.

What size is your stock alternator and stock battery? That is hilarious that you dont have .1 volt drop at all even when system is playing, not saying I dont believe you but it is hard to believe with a stock chaging system and system at full tilt. We can offer you a list of subs but it doesnt mean it will be louder or as clean or both compared to your current system. BTL n2 (even if it is better than the previous model it is hard to compare a sub that is not out yet) AA Mayhem IA Warden Rival Mobile Electronics A12.22 (talk to rushnrun on here) What is your budget for a sub as well? Naw no need to be smart man just trying to help you out and not give advice before getting all the information from you like most people (everyone doesnt have signatures turned on or will go look at your avator for information you need to post for help).

33Hz My seats are always down so its really not sealed in the trunk. The falls wall is FG. Your seats have nothing to do with what we are saying, but since you have them down your allowing some pressure to reach the cabin. Your losing output into the cabin very badly by blocking the sound waves from getting into the cabin with the panel on the front of the enclosure, Im pretty sure you have horrible trunk rattle/noise or worse than it would be if you remove the panel or turn the enclosure around.

Both pictures are the same, #2 is just requires longer wire for the positive terminal. There is no best since they are the same. Did you not notice that each picture is basically the same thing, the wiring configuration and ohm load does not change between the two?

I used birch plywood on my last box and I'll happily pay more for birch from now on. It's less messy to cut , hold screws better and seem lighter to me. Birch is lighter than mdf

What is louder than your current setup? What is your current setup up tuned to? What is your electrical to determine if you arent even getting full output of what you have now and so on? Any and all information that can help someone help you besides I want to be louder and still cleaner than my current setup but with a smaller subwoofer.

You could of kept this in your last thread about the same thing. Its hard for someone to determine a 12" sub that will sound louder then your current 15" with the amount of information you given. Especially with a sub that is not even out yet and nobody has experience with it yet. AA Mayhem 12", it has more motor force and could get louder but the installation will play a large role as well as the equipment picked.

Do you even come on here for anything else but to hype up these speakers? Do you even own a pair to be nut riding like you are? Why would one pay $600 or more for components when you cant get a full listing of T/S Parameters, that is pure stupidity to go off someone's opinion who is bias to them? Even if the owner thinks T/S Parameters are useless at least post them for the people who are interested in purchasing them just like most companies who sell speakers. Your arguing against physics which you can do all day long but wont be taken serious until you come with facts. You like them cause of what you heard from them, just like everyone else who likes them. Most people in life wont like something you like so deal with it, in which your case it seems it is hard to deal with. I could care less if I love how the speakers sound in my car rather than what other people think. You sir arent adding anything to this discussion but your love and opinions for these speakers, thats all .

I thought they would be able to without the since people on here tend to pull emotion from a post rather then information/facts.