jcarter1885

I wouldnt say a huge hole, personally the 4500Ds were for competitors really. So in reality going from a 3500 - 4500 watt amp wasnt really a plus. Dont get me wrong they were selling but for their target audience they were geared at the demand for more power is needed daily. A 6k or 7k watt would be a hit for any amplifier company these days. Just my .02

No problem man, some people just dont understand and never will until they look outside the box and understand everyone wants different goals and have different tastes. There are plenty of ways of going about meeting your goals, im not saying your going the wrong or right way (its just cheaper and easier ways as well). Since you have the gear then go ahead with your plans. The only thing I can warn you about is cutting up all those panels will only require you replace them all if you change your route in the future, I had to do that and what a PITA. Any questions or comments or suggestions on anything just PM me, I dont mind helping or at least giving some of my abnormal advice.

Also I know Grand Prix's have big trunks, but I would utilize more of my backseat are for those 4-12"s your gonna wanna use. Putting that much power to subs in trunk without it being sealed off and firing forward will be a waste. All that pressure will not escape that trunk area in time. I would to find away to use that rear deck and back seat area to make an efficient box so you can get the most from your system. Its not about the equipment, its all about the install. Sure equipment plays a role but if you dont give it the proper install it wont perform to optimal or full potential. Just a thought to help you slow down and think, being loud is not about buying and placing all the equipment you can. 3-12"s wiill be louder and sound better with the right amount of airspace to perform in the 4-12"s cramped.

Im not gonna bash your idea bro cause I know where your coming from and I seem to know where you wanna go. You want a mix of midbass with a loud front stage in case you turn your bass off. I was in the game of 20+ speakers in the car just for mids and highs some years ago, was loud but I also got louder and sounded better with less equipment as well. To help with your goal, having that many speakers will cause more headaches trying to eq and install then buying them personally. Your midbass from your kickers will barely be noticeable with all pro audio gear running (when your subs are off). Your tweets and mids will greatly overpower your mids, there just not sensitive enough to keep up with the mids and highs you will be running. Your best bet will bea to sell the cadence mids, keep the selenium st350 tweeters you were gonna buy or already have. You need to invest in either 2-8's per door or one 10" per door (front and rear doors) with one super tweeter per door. This will be less of a wiring headache, easier on your pockets, cleaner install while being louder and sounding better than what you were planning on doing. Rear deck speakers will be a waste if you have speakers in front and rear doors since you wont hear them anyway regardless if you have subs playing or not. Pro Audio drivers are loud and adding more doesnt neccessarily make you louder, I tried this with 8 speakers playing. Then lowered the amount to 6 and then down to 4z and so on. Yes you may gain some more output but not like your thinking, you will not just magically be any louder with all those speakers. Eventually it will cause cancellation and you wont hear them all in turn wasting the pontential and money you spent. Im not speaking from what I dont know or havent already experienced myself, im no expert but I been in your shoes before. Hope this helps

Usually most walls are built from behind b pillar to the trunk when done in a car, most people leave the trunk area to make customize amp rack holders. But as said above if you need more space than building some of the enclosure in the trunk will be helpful to reach your goal. The first step in a wall build would be to find your max dimensions so you can calculate what room is availabe for subs, bracing and so on. There are some step by step wall builds in the build log as well. You can make a shell out of 2x4's and work your way into an enclosure or you can build a big enclosure in the car and just panel it off to make it look like it is taking up the whole backseat area. There are multiple ways to pull this off and no wrong way. You would want to even out the dance floor, or where your gonna place the enclosure to make it balanced and leveled. Most just lay some wood down and bolt it to the car, once its leveled out you can start on the enclosure itself. Dont have too many tips as I havent built one myself but seen one built and been looking into this for some time, hopefully someone can chime in with more information.

yes sir you will definitely have to start at 3,000hz with those tweets, I had the ST200's last year and loved them.

It seems as though your looking to put in 8" subs instead of 8" midbass drivers in your doors, you wont find any mids that will due 20-40hz. That is sub bass duty and not midbass duty. yeah, thats why I said I'd use they kicker 8's lol 30-500hz low-end and mid end. As for my cadence MIDS they only pick up 125-10k for of a mid-high woofer. So kickers will run my 200 and under Hz, cadence will run my 200-kHz, and tweets 1k-20k Hz. does tat make more sense?? I wont listen to my woofers every time I'm in car. You probably will have to run your tweeters a little higher that that, I dont know of many tweeters that can drop that low especially super tweeters. Sounds like you have a plan, now you just have to implement it. What super tweeters do you have?

It seems as though your looking to put in 8" subs instead of 8" midbass drivers in your doors, you wont find any mids that will due 20-40hz. That is sub bass duty and not midbass duty.

I know who to come to when its time for me to design a page, good job as always.

Who out of all those people actually have the equipment to measure an amps output capability, nobody. Putting an amp in a system and seeing how it performs doesnt tell you if it is underrated or overrated. As long as an amp puts out and makes a system sound optimal to the person's goals then yes they will say it is underrated. Not saying whether Audioque amps are or arent underrated, just wanted you to understand the difference between fact and fiction.

I don't think you would ever reach the volume level we were at in a car in any situation and hence not the level of thermal stress; not to mention we drove the amp into clipping -- if you did I'd expect you to lose your hearing in a few days. We were measuring ~ 115 dB about 6 feet away; which at mid-range frequencies is quite damaging. Not to mention in your car you are much closer to the drivers. So... you could wire it either way. Of course when bridged you won't have stereo. Yeah that is my only down fall if I decide to go bridged, Im thinking of getting a SAX-100.4D and just bridging the channels and running one driver per side. But Im thinking that may be too much for them.

Seeing as the 10" was kinda warm after being bridged on the SAX-100.2, if I get a pair of 8"s would I better off running them one per channel or running the pair bridged on a SAX-125.2?

They do have all the pertinant information but why release it when there product is not ready to be released due to parts not be readily accessible. The subs are past production and can be sold as soon as parts come in, they have been tested and designed for awhile now. If the buildhouse had steel the subs would be sold right now. What dont you understand about this? Its not like they made a sub and sold a few without testing them or getting the valuable information to understand there advantages and disadvantages. SSA doesnt release anything extra without something in there hands, so just be patient like the rest of us. This a topic for Will and his accomplishments, not about your questions regarding there subs. Take that to the Zcon thread, thanks

Me too since Im steady rebuilding and cant keep equipment for more than a month without selling it. Sorry to hear about your audio troubles bud, you will be loud soon.

Some of yall are still crying the same song. Its funny how grown man get sand in their vaginas over what has been said on the internet, criticism or not who cares. This is the funniest stuff I see on forums right here, the bickering over some words (can we say cheer leaders table at the lunch room in a high school). The builders arent responding, nobody is putting the car on the term lab. Even if the car is on the term lab the results can be tweaked or the system can be tuned to make it have a flat response so that wont help anything. Just let it die already. Florida keep building 4th orders and being loud and doing things out of the norm, its that simple. Really who cares? If you do what will it prove honestly.

They aren't actually "done" per say. The short version of what's going on: Eric Stevens founded ID. He later brought in an investor/co-owner. Recently the co-owner and Eric were unable to work some things out, so Eric left (or was "forced out", depending on how you look at it). When Eric left, Matt B. left as well I do believe. The co-owner now has control of ID as a company. What path ID will take now that Eric and Matt are gone is not yet certain. I don't believe anybody has really heard much of anything out of the new owners to see what their plans are. Eric I don't believe has publicly stated what his intentions are now either. Sucks to hear that, thanks for the heads up Brad.

I also have some installing info that I wrote down a while back if you need it sefugi.

with the 12db slope you can start out at 1200hz but 1500hz may be a better starting point. Once you install them play with them to see where you like them at, depending on the power you send them and listening factors you may be fine with 1200hz @ 12db. Just seen this page: http://imagedynamicsusa.com/ Didnt know they were done, hope i can still get some ultra horns in the future.

Paint, decals and tint are all top notch. This car is too fresh Chop, the build log is gonna be beast.

The sub was moving, but it could be just one of the coils. How can I test for this Nick? Should I hook each coil up individually? He made a video on youtube I believe and a topic on this forum about it, just have to search for it.

Components are good for budget components, dont expect to much midbass from them but they do sound good. Right now they are being redesigned so the new one's coming out should be better.

x2, fast shipping and great customer service

Dreadnought or Draconia will fit the bill nicely, just gotta sell a few things first.

One thing I have to add is I remember on this forum when people always said there are too many factors in an install to determine anything from pictures or graphs or speculation. Cant this be one of those times where so many factors played a role that basic math had to be added or subtracted some just to get the enclosure they got with the performance they wanted. Im just saying, no emotions used at all in my post

Depends what the stock ground looks like, if it is sufficient then go with it. Remember to remove paint from the stock ground if it hasnt been already.