jcarter1885

I personally would take it to a shop especially since this is your first time doing an install. Your attempting to run active with no direction or knowledge on what your doing, this will cause more harm to your speakers and wallet. Im not saying its out of your league but you will not get it right the first try and tuning an active setup is more than just installing and setting the amps/headunit correctly. It will take some extensive listening to get the setup where it should be. If you insist on doing it yourself then fine some bass blockers for your tweeters, that match the ohm load/power rating/tweeters lowest frequency response. You will wire these bass blockers in line with the positive speaker wire between amp and speaker. Set the amp on HPF and set the gain to match the output voltage of your headunit (if its 2 volts gain match your amp at 2 volts). As for mids, you can set your amp at HPF around 60 or 80hz depending on how you low you want your mids to play. If you dont to use your amps settings then set it at Full and use your radio's settings to pick a crossover point. This is the general on how to tune but in now way shape or form is it standard or if it all will apply to your application. Here's an example of a bass blocker for your tweeters but this frequency response cutoff is too high for your applicaiton, so find something else: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_24358_PAC-BB-6PR-Black.html

I know you said this is going in your car but do you plan on making this available to the masses, seems like your getting a lot of attention and requests for some. What size are you making this driver out to be?

They are 15"s

makes me want a Tahoe more and more, nice videos man

If insist on running those 2-15"s then yeah walling would be the best decision for your application but it has nothing to do with what type of car you have, it has to do with what you can fit. Since those 15"s cant go in the trunk in a proper enclosure then walling will suffice.

I think the amount of room in the signature is controlled by post count but I may be wrong. Yeah it sounded nice with any system I had.

Im so jelly, I miss my Saturn Ion trunk (you could fit a 5ft^3 box in those things without a problem). Looking real good.

Appreciate the link man.

Its hard to say, your best bet is to measure the are you have to work with then figure out what you can fit. All install dependent and its hard to say which one will out perform the other. Dcons have less motor force than the other subs but you have more cone area, its really a toss up.

Just installing it wont give you better sound at all, unless you know what your doing with it. It can be beneficial to a system if needed but if you dont know what your doing then it will just be another piece of equipment in the install. Are you noticing any peaks or valleys in your system that need improvement or adjusting, if so then it could help out some in that case.

Are you having any problems with your system, do you currently have some type of crossover on your headunit. Asking is it good for my system is not enough information. If you need it then its worth installing but you have to figure out if you need it.

It actually hasnt been a month yet, read on Fi's site where it tells you it will take 10-15 business days to build. Then you gotta factor in your not the only person buying a sub from them, hopefully an update will come soon.

Will do!! Just found out that decaf had it labeled wrong its by Rain Boys Zip 1 on Decafs mix. If you still need the link lemme know Yeah I would appreciate the link man, thanks.

Could you send me the song, I cant find it anywhere? I just spent the last 45 minutes looking for it on all my Tum Tum mixtapes. Thanks [email protected]

I had success with plastic to fabric bond in my previous car, it held for for years with no problems. Just apply pressure for a while to make sure bond is good, Im in Texas and heat wasnt a problem. I used it for my lights compartment to attach back to my headliner. Just my experience

Seat belt bolts are not good grounding spots, ground somewhere else.

keep up the hard work, it will pay off in the end. Looking good so far

Yeah from my understanding it doesnt soak up resin neither so you dont have to use a lot of it, I get my info from EpicCenter Designs (thats who told me to use Ponte fabric).

I told you awhile ago Ponte fabric is the way to go when fiberglassing, cant wait to see the outcome when done. Ported door enclosures FTW!!!!!

No not all the time, I ordered a pair of Neo-Pro 8"s on Thursday and havent received a tracking number yet. But the shipping time is usually fast once its shipped.

You think the front stage will need more of an upgrade once the subs installed?

We want more, we want more

It honeslty depends on what you want, if you want to stay car audio or take a plunge into pro audio drivers. Those oxygen audio speakers are great, sound good and get loud with some nice punch/kick. They dont need that much power and to get loud, you wont get any midbass from them though. If your looking for a nice midbass 6.5" driver check out the Selenium 6w4p. if you want to go active and keep the tweeters you have, then just pick out some bass blockers that meet the specs on your tweeters. Wire them inline between the tweeters and amp, thats how I had mine setup. Here are some bass blockers: Blockers

i've always known him to use eminence, selenium etc... he may have moved away from it now though. He's front stages have always been insane though. where I got the inspiration for my old astro, had 24 15" level 2 dc 15s in it and 48 selenium ST350 supertweeters. Ran out of money doing the mids.. and room lol.. literally had nowhere else to put them. Your correct, he has Selenium Super Tweeters and Eminence 10" mids. Nice video man, really wish i could hear it in person.