jcarter1885
-
Content Count
12,022 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
123
Everything posted by jcarter1885
-
I would do the Icons as Ive had them before but ported, I'm sure they would do well in a sealed application. The Gcons would work as well, hopefully Aaron or someone responds to help you further. Both would work and sound great. I put my IA Lethal Injections in a sealed box and they sounded good but sealed just wasn't enough output for me, but we have different goals. All are great choices
-
Help Bad voltage drop
jcarter1885 replied to Bayler's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
What brand alternator and batteries? -
As much as I love welding cable, I hate that it's not flexible like car audio wire. I'll definitely go back to Knukonceptz in my next build or maybe even rewire this current build so it can look better.
-
Deadener should be here Friday. I doubt I'll get any work done since there is a car show in town this weekend but I want to do something. I will mount DSP and try to get the ground side of the Big 3 done sometime this week.
-
I cleaned up the wiring some to make it more appealing.
-
XS Power PWR-S5-4800 and some heat wrap since it gets hot in Texas, this will help the battery last for a while under the hood.
-
Finally got a lithium battery for under the hood so all my batteries in the car are lithium now, this is my first XS Powe Battery and im excited.
-
Definitely should be fun learning all the new brands and ways that car audio has changed over the years. Glad you're back
-
I finally got my trunk light back working, had to do anjothenight video of the enclosure. 20240418_204054.mp4
-
Nighttime view of enclosure with lights on. 20240410_205215.mp4
-
Daylight view of enclosure with lights on. 20240409_131331.mp4
-
I removed the Stinger X RCAs and replaced them with Rhyno RCAs. Sorry I haven't cleaned up the wiring some but I haven't messed with this system since I installed the JL DSP. 20240409_114311.mp4
-
Can’t decide on amp for two kicker comp q 12’s
jcarter1885 replied to audiohz's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
Just depends on music choice really since most songs aren't really under 30 hz. But to be safe an adjustable subsonic filter will be wise especially if you are playing rebassed or boosted songs. -
Can’t decide on amp for two kicker comp q 12’s
jcarter1885 replied to audiohz's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
You won't hear a difference in power so just flip a coin, either amp will be a solid choice. -
Yeah my factory battery was a group 43 but I seen a dude fit a 48, so I went that route. It was snug but it fit like a glove. The only company I found at the time who would make an H/O alternator was Brand X and mine is a 270. Had it installed in Summer of 22 and no issues yet, he had bigger sizes but this size was the most reliable and dependable. I have 2/0 welding cable all throughout the ride. 2 power runs from front battery to rear batteries. Amps grounded to batteries, rear batteries grounded in spare tire well. One positive and negative run from front battery to alternator. And 4 grounds under the hood too. I been meaning that call Brand X and see if grounds from front battery to rear battery or from alternator to rear battery would make any differences.
-
I don't have an isolator in my VW and have no problems with voltage or anything to that affect. Granted I have an aftermarket alternator, but stock wiring still intact. When I had the factory alternator and battery in, it did limit my voltage. Just by doing the big 3 and upgrading my front battery to an Odyssey Group 48 AGM I gained .5volts. I went from a voltage at idle with lights on and A/C from 13.8v to 14.3v. Once I did the h/o alternator, I didn't have any other voltage issues. Now at times during the winter I can see voltage as high as 15.3 and 14.5-8v during the summer and I'm in Texas. OP sucks you can't take your factory radio out because the one in my car sucked, using Bluetooth it would just go silent for like two seconds every 30 minutes or so give or take. Everyone said it's just something with the radios they use when using the Bluetooth setting. I had soany issues with the factory radio and NAV-TV unit that it made me rip out my radio and replace it with a Sony head unit, I haven't had any issues since. Yes codes are crazy, I had to take it to a shop to get all that stuff figured out since my car was new and no information was out about it at the time.
-
That's the route I went and love mine, took the weight out of my trunk by removing the group 31 battery, and my voltage doesn't drop as much plus it looks cleaner than having that huge battery back there.
-
I would do with a XS Power Titan battery for the rear, lithium is the way to go and much lighter as well. Honestly you may not need to upgrade the front battery if you get an LTO battery, they work with normal batteries and don't need an isolator. Just a thought
-
I got the TWK88 installed and I will remove the RCA labels later aswell as clean up the wiring some more. I just wanted to get the DSP in and turning on for now, I'll tune tonight or tomorrow.
-
These cars are finicky, I first used a NAV-TV (over a $1000) unit to get signal from the source and it sucked. I ended up ripping the head unit out, replacing it with a DSP to create my own source unit. I haven't had any issues since, hopefully you have more luck then me with the factory head unit. I had to take it to a shop just to get all of that installed since it had so many codes, the factory hu had issues with the NAV-TV (some people have no issues with these units and others have issues I dealt with and more).
-
Look what came in today, I'll take more pictures later on and hopefully get the install started.
-
I personally would stay away from Audio Control, hence why I got rid of mine even though I did love the DSP. Audio Control sold it's company and the units are out of stock as of now. They have been having hella issues with software especially when you download there latest software update, which I didnt do since the 3 years I owned it. People have units with bugs and glitches, which I never experienced with mine. Audio Control was one of my all time favorite companies since back in the day when I had my Epic-160. I had more issues with my Dayton DSP when I first got into the processing game which is what made me go to Audio Control DM608. I also talked to a reputable shop down here and they say Audio Control does something with the low end that they didn't like and even tried to sell me a Jl twk88 when I was calling about a Helix DSP, which the JL is cheaper than both so he wasn't just trying to sell me a product and actually saved me money by not going the Helix route since I'll never own a center channel speaker setup. Sorry for the long post, just my experience with their DSPs.
-
Something is missing from this picture, no more Audio Control DM608 DSP.
-
Still breaking in but not bad for a single 15" out of the trunk.
-
I received my new RCA's for my amplifiers, they are 2 channel and 3 ft each. I have 3, one leaving each output of my DSP and going to their respective amplifiers. I don't know why it uploads the picture upside like that, I tried to fix it.