haydenlake

I would guess that if anyone from this forum actually bought an RLS we would see a post about it. And did anyone in the ring even try the normal recs for the enclosure. I remember people just throwing it in ported boxes they already had. If this is the case then most of us really don't know what it would sound like. 600 burning in my hand

As you might be able to tell from the title I am looking for a pair of really good sq 6.5 comps. I've had MB Q "Q" series (terribly dissapointed) and a few other not so great coax's and cheaper separates. I've heard the JL XR series in my friends car as well as demo rooms and they seem hard to beat at that price but if the ZR's are far better I'll just buck up the $ and do it. Just heard lots of separates from Focal anywhere from 300-850 and I wasn't all that impressed. I liked the one's for 850 (165 K2P's) but I just didn't think they justified the cost. Well who know's it all changes when you get it into a car anyway. PS I have plenty of power but I'm not doing kicks because of space and I'm bad at glass. 06 highlander will have tons of dampening and door seal is way above average.

I'd have to disagree about the JL products and not being good for the money. I finally installed my pair of ZR's and they sound great. Its even harder to find a super good four channel amp with all the features the JL 300/4 has for $300. if you can point out others let me know so I have them in mind for my next boat install. I've only heard a few CDT's and they sounded fine but since that was so long ago I couldn't remember anything about them or the models. I only found one place to buy Rainbows on the net and I don't have any retailers around me. It seemed like they have sooooo many choices of comp sets it was almost confusing, but they we'rnt cheap either. The speaks I hated most regardless of money were my MB Q Q series (paid 275 instead 650 retail) given the chance again I might put 50 bones on em. haha

So I have my normal starting bat up front and I'm going to put an additional battery in the rear of the car near the amps. My question is should i run a fuse near the main bat to the 2nd bat as well as in between the second bat and the amp. All in all I don't think an additional fuse would hurt anything and if they power wire ever chaffed through I think I'd be really glad I had a fuse there. any help

I'm not sure which is best but in the majority of installs I've listened to (in car or suv or hatchback) the subs pointing back were usually the loudest configuration for music, perhaps for SPL and really high tunings it might be true otherwise, I don't know. So you can't put the box in there and try each way, if not just build a single 15 box with a similar tuning and size and try it with that so it is managable and see which works best. for this I would port the same side as the driver. If you really want to find out make ports out of both side and seal one of them to test. If you don't have an spl meter it might be hard to tell. e.g you could try one way then be bangin on it for a while (draining battery and warming up sub) then you switch and your ears are already tired as is you bat. Just things to keep in mind. later, b

sweet man, congrats! I'm glad you got something you really wanted. I thought it was a 06 RE when I first looked at it. That sub looks like the type that you can plan on enjoying for years vs the one's that are just good for a few summers of pounding out rap in a boat (I have fosgates in my boat) My vote is for HT bc it's too nice for a car (and heavy) also it would have a less likely chance of being stolen at home and you wouldn't be limited to what box you could build. (what are you planning on building?) is it effiecient? later, post box pics later, b

Although I'm not worried about buying an amp with enough power (bc I buy quality gear) I'm still unsure how efficient an amp really is. My really old PPI PC 2150 A/B class says in the manual something like 70% efficient which is better than many class d amps now (I read something about the JL 500/1 being about 50% effiencent.) Anyone really know how efficient their amp is or how I can find out without buying one? PS I have a 06 Toyota Highbrid and I'm thinking that the normal 12v system is going to get taxed pretty hard with a moderate system in there. My system will be pair of 6.5's up front (likely XR's or Mpyre's) powered by my PPI PC2150 Single SS RLP 12 in a ported box (hopefully) but I want to converve space Anyone know if the normal 12v electrical charges off of a typical alternator and goes straight to the 12v batt, or does the big alternator that charges the electric motor bat also charge the 12v batt. I would think this would make a huge difference. I really don't want to spend a bunch of money on a full on charging system and more bats thanks in advance

a pair of rlp 15's is going to beligerently louder than a JL7 get ready for the low lows

I've thought about a similar system but I just haven't bucked up the $ to do it. Have you ever tested (or do you know a way to test) how much power you can draw from you wall outlet? I'm thinking that I might wind up poping fuses all the time even if I only use one 15rls with my Tapco J2500 (supposed to be 2500wrms at 4ohms) Anyone know how to figure out how much your outlets can take withouut giving out? other than buyying a huge inefficient sub and trying it.

Are you the same guy doing the X-1 as read about on SIN?

build either an imperial horn or a large bandpass box. I don't remember which one is called what but I think it's 7th order so each side has a different tuning. Something like a homewrecker? Or even a WO half with a tuning on the previously sealed side.

Max VS RLp http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f378/hay...ke/IMG_1981.jpg

Yeah, I've thought about that. The amp I have is a Tapco J2500 suposedly does 2500wrms at 4ohms. I read a reveiw where the benched it really close to that. My house wireing isn't upgraded or anything but I've used this amp powering quite a few things and it's never shut off, made the lights dim, or anything like that. My 2hp table saw runs just fine off of these outlets but it won't even work in my neighbors garage (my house is wired before the 3 other houses near it). I'm about 15ft away from the power line). Since the RLS is so stiff at .9 does this mean it would be good in an IB alignment. If so I could make a T line for it, and that would get subterranian low. My seating position is near the middle of the room (less bass) when sub is in center between mains. if I fire the sub up do you think this would help spread out the room modes. I reason this might work beause my head will then be the same distance from the reflecting wall (ceiling and floor as it may be) anywhere I am in the room. anyone heard an LMT and a tumult or can vouche for one over the other.

I wasn't online when you responed. Yeah I've heard my friends pair of 15" tumults off of plenty of power as well as his pair of 18" XXX's but no I haven't heard LMT can you describe the diff (just lower distortion etc or what) with the LTM driver being so in efficent it just seems like a large drawback. I have plenty of space so I was thinking 10 cubes tuned to 16-18hz. and with that large of an enclosure it shoulnd't be as hard to drive. I think a cool box would be an LMT inverted on the top with the ports on top too (if you saw the room it was going into it would make more sense. later, b

agreed, I mean why would you think that a sub that needs a really large box is best suited or geared toward mobile use. I'm trying to decide between pair of 15" Kodas one 15 or 18" tumult one 15" SS LMT any advice? oh, and I have at least 2200wrms at 4ohm

its not going to make a difference you should be able to push em hard enough with 900. going up to 1300 or whatever isn't really going to sound any different. if you want louder add more subs but don't buy more amps (this works best in nearly all cases)

RLp's are amazing subs and one of the few that I've owned that I would hate to sell. If you want really loud on rock either get another one or eq those frequencies up. I've got a WAVES maxx bass processor that takes some logrithm of the input frequency and changes it to a series of higher octives (it makes it sound the same but the speaker travels less) then I used it with my pair of ADS 8's they got incredibly loud yet they didn't move as much. This might work on your RLP, I'll sell the processor for 70 I have the reciept for 150 if you're intersted. Check it out + review at http://www.wavescaraudio.com/ Sorry to take a thread and turn it into a sale, but since it might be a solution I thought I would mention it. If this thing can make my 6.5's sound way deeper and louder, getting 40hz-70hz loud on an rlp will be a cake walk.

If you want 150db on music daily you're just looking to draw attention to yourself, your ears don't and won't hear well up there, its like putting your head next to a lawn mower and turning on your cheap head phones (yeah overall it'll be really loud but it won't sound very good now matter how drunk you are). But if you insist on having the big balls system don't think it'll be cheap, do it right with a pair of RLS's or Tumults offa 5kw then you'll be good to go. get a couple of batteries and an upgraded alt and caps. If you don't expect to easily spend 3k then you're probably not going to get close for good quality gear. I've seen six 15"tempests in a durango, that thing hit 150's The only reason for anything that loud is competition, if you're not competing and you want other people to hear you we could design a bass horn to be mounted ontop of your car that way other people wouldn't loose any of the sound.

Just remember this, clunking noises, slapping sounds, harsh impact metal to metal noises are always bad for a sub. The fact your sub did this on a certian note is probably because of the tuning of the box (I don't remember what your box was like). when you play a note below the tuning of the box it's like the sub isn't in a box and it'll move a ton with little power. this is why high tunings are bad (aside from the fact that their boomy and sound bad). Wires can make noises if they are moving around but typically they're never loud enough to hear over a sub and usually not loud enough to confuse for a sub bottoming out. show a pic of your box and maybe I'd have some ideas. you can always wrap the wiire to make sure its not hitting anything.

I've had mine moving way more than that, but who knows that camera wasn't all that great either I don't really know how it looked in person. Try 15hz sine wave free air then you'll see 3" stroke. And to denim and others who think gain will affect blowing a sub or how much power your amp puts out read this. http://www.forceaudio.com/portal.php?artic...822b2b5ea94a90a If the link doesn't work just go to forceaudio.com then scroll down the page and you'll see it. Clipping doesn't ruin subs and gains don't increase your power. later, b

i think a lot of us are waiting to find suitable plans to build such an enclosure <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I've got plans for a pair of 8's in a tline modeled after my ADS 3 series. They have a higher fs so the plans wouldn't work. I'd draw up some plans for a single RLP 8 if ya all want, prob something like the photos I posted already. I like the driver to fire out of the same side as the port. But as far as getting it underneath a seat with lots of curves and stuff that will be really hard to plan in advance. I think a fiberglass TL under a seat would be super sick. I've seen plans for 8 8's in a tl that fits into an extended cab truck! that would be sweet.

So I toyed around with the idea of getting an outlaw receiver, or one of their preamps or some other pre-amp amp combo and it started to look expensive. So I wound up buying a $3,000 receiver...but I only paid 1,000. Sweet, its upgradable via computer, it does more things that I'll ever figure out, it weighs 60 pounds, has two subwoofer outs, and got good reveiws (like that means anything). It might not do everything as well as components but its likely I just bought plenty of EQ, a decent amp, a preamp, a headphone amp (it has dolby headphone) and lots of buttons and lights. Okay that eliminated the adcom stuff I just bought but I might hold onto the amp to run a sub. Check it out at http://www.bostonacoustics.com/home_produc...&product_id=330 my audio addiction is killing my bank account Stupid move or wise?

I'm not sure what the hell you guys are talking about with 2 and 3 inch ports bc if you want to make a TL you shouldn't taper much more than 1.3 to .85 (this is measured in SD with the beginning starting larger than the end) the more drastic taper the more boomy it will be (kinda like a high tuning on a large ported box). To figure out how long the quarter wavelength is take the speed of sound divided by 4x the fs So 342meters per second/ 115.6 is 2.95meters in length. That 2.95 is the length of your t-line when it is unstuffed (assuming no taper 1sd start to 1sd end) the more taper the longer the line appears to the driver. Poly fill makes nearly Zero difference in making the line appear longer but for some reason acoustistuff does, wool is the best, fiberglass works too. Assume that if you stuff .7lbs to each cubic foot you will increase perceived length by 25-30% So if you want to make a good sounding t-line try tapering from 1.1sd to .9sd at 89 inches long (I did the math for you!) here is what I did for my ID max (1.25sd to .95) turned out too boomy but it goes subterreanean deep and stupid loud, fills up 2000sf house no problem very few room modes. http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f378/hay...ke/IMG_1979.jpg http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f378/hay...ke/d9692556.jpg http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f378/hay...ke/de093a2d.jpg later, hope that helped

Maybe you could us a different box design and get the results you want. I've been itchin to do a 4th order bp blow thru in a sedan I've just never had the time. Maybe this would be loud enough for ya and keep SQ just fine as well. there is no reason to have more than 700 watts on an rlp their fairy efficient. I've got amps from 200watts at 4ohm to 2500 at 4ohm and my Rlp isn't any slouch on my PPI pc 22150 at 600wrms rear firing will usually increase preceived output, unless your trunk is really dense and you have a gas tank where the backrest of the seat is.

I can vouch for the Decka's I bought a pair of intimadators this summer and put em in my boat. I ran it near clipping with about 2000wrms of amps for an hour and a half and I only lost one tenth of a volt! according to my voltmeter as well as the meter on my amp. I think they were 250 shipped for two, sweet batteries, just had one left unused in a car for 5 months (now out of boat and into old chitty cat) and it started right up.