nigel

Is it a remote bass boost where it boosts at one set frequency on that model, or is it a remote gain block? There's a solid difference between the two. Setting the gain on the amp with a remote gain block hooked up can allow you to remotely attenuate just the sub amp from the front, which is particularily helpful if you don't have a source unit with that function built in (ie using the rear out for your sub amp, or tapping the rear channels for a high level input). With a remote bass boost you're boosting centered on one set frequency (most amps with bass boost are preset at 50 hz) this is garbage and shouldn't be employed. If you are looking to use an equalizer style function realistically you mainly want to use it to smooth out peaks in your response and minimally boost only if neccessary.

Damn mirrored finish on that. Awesome work sir. The meticulous attention shines! Well done.

If you could open up your budget a touch the new SSA gcon 12's are on sale for $219 and a pair would do awesome on 2000 watts. They're rated at 950 ea. Otherwise, checkout the SSA store. Lot's of quality products on it. Just jumping out at me price wise I'd look at the american bass xfl to see if they would work sealed or the soundcubed hds3 series. Both under your $200/sub budget and would go well on 2000 watts.

Don't get hung up on "Brand" instead look for quality and right price point for your budget. There are lots of great companies with great quality products. It's very hard to give suggestions without knowing your specific limitations. What's your budget? What all needs to be purchased? Are you only looking at new or will you buy used? What space do you have available? How strong is your electrical? All of these come into play. Some more info is needed from you to make a reasonable suggestion.

The people in any job who have been just hanging around and barely skating by will always react in a negative manner when someone competent comes in. If they can drag you down and affect your ability then their lackings become less readily apparent. Stay the course. Continue to excel, and they'll be given two choices: pick up their laces or vacate for new competent workers. That ball is in their court, it's not your fault if they drop it. All that being said, congrats on the success, I'm sure you'll pull through and shine.

Got to see these guys last night. Was a blast.

I would go with the nvx amp over the ppi amp. The current offerings from ppi aren't overly up to snuff imo. Nvx would be the better quality option. And if i remember correctly ssa carries nvx i believe. Same as everyone else on the ditch the idea of rears and concentrate up front. Trust them. Use your 4 channel all on your front stage. Should give you lots of overhead. If you already have the second sub, then build to suit should be nice.

My direction was more to show a possibility. Just demonstrating that $1000 can get you quite far for just sub(s) and an amp, not so much as a recommendation of a specific set up. That being said, it is more up to you what you decide works best with your desires, space, and budget. Be it a single 12, dual 12's, single 15 etc. Whether to go ported or sealed enclosure etc. These are all personal preference. I have run lots of different set ups over the years, and had many things I've enjoyed with each. Tuning in the 32 - 36 hz range should do quite well in a proper sized enclosure. At the end of the day it's up to you.

If you were to go with rich00's recommendation of 2 12's on 2k here's just a quick search on ssa's store of budget friendly (using the $1000 you listed) and is good quality. 2 american bass xfl 12's (177 ea) $354 American bass ph4000 amp $260 Sky high ofc 0ga amp kit $115 Total: $729 And this set up should be able to slam. Just to show your $1000 budget is very doable.

Wow, just read this post now. Must have missed it over christmas. That subwoofer is only 400 watts rms, don't use the "max" ratings they are flashy sales gimmicks and not useful in any way. That being said, the amp you listed will power it just fine. As for your question on wiring it up, go with a parallel wiring as the sub is dual 4 ohm coils, to get you an end result of 2 ohms, as that amp is 500 watts at 2 ohms. Go with 4 gauge wiring for power and ground.

People will ask that same question here too... It seems no one is capable of thinking for themself today, let alone be able to do any research... That being said, welcome to the forum. Hope you enjoy the content.

Do you know what kind of air space you have to work with? Lot's on the market in the 400 w range for subs, it's whether they'll work with your dimensions. What were you looking to do up front? Passive components or going active? 2 way or 3? So many variables to be answered. Some lately have been going the 3" full range on axis in pods on the dash with a 6.75-8 inch midbass mounted in the doors I've seen and running them active. But there's so much personal preference and end user opinion that comes in to play on what sounds good to each individual. That being said, if you're just looking for a factory upgrade with a "little" bump, you could probably get away with a single decent 12 for sub duty, and it just so happens that the newly released SSA Hellion is nicely rated at 950 watts and would probably run quite well off of the 800 you said that amp can provide...

The difference between what you have and what you list as max dimensions is only 0.3379 cubic ft. (This calculation is before accounting for wall thickness, and port/driver displacement) Have you tried designing an enclosure with those dimensions to see what the net difference would be after? I would try an enclosure built to you max useable dimensions before throwing money at new equipment. A sheet of mdf is much cheaper...

Nice to hear you're still working on it. Keep up the work.

any progress at all?

at least 3. max 6. for a weekday. add 2 if a weekend.

you sir will be missed. Your builds always looked spectacular. Always looked forward to seeing your pics, and reading your posts.

damn, always nice to see old forum members return. The generation is all about social media apps, not internet forums... It's a generational thing i guess. And yeah, I've got 3 kids now, and many others on here have been hitting big milestones in life as well. Life can be very busy...

Nice and shiny. I'd say they turned out great.

Really missing my lowered mini right now. Keep the build log coming. Absolutely loving it man. Looking good.

It never hurts to have extra reserve on tap. Just saying. Will it be absolutely necessary? Not likely, considering you're already planning on beefing up all the under hood electrical, and that your planning on running this as a daily for music which is dynamic and you won't be seeing a constant max output. Chances are the majority of your comfort level listening will be quite a bit below max volume.

Through the use of an loc you will be relying on either getting a processor unit that you can use to set crossover points or using the built in crossover network on whatever amp you choose. Either way, you can ditch the passive crossovers this way through having a 4 channel running your front stage with tweets and mids all on seperate channels. You really don't need rear fill. Especially if you design your front stage properly, having speakers running behind you just messes with imaging. If you are insisting on keeping something there, just leave the stock rears in place running off of the factory deck you're maintaining. You'll fast notice though with a good front stage, you will be fading all the way to the front and not using the rears. So my suggestion is don't spend any money there. It's not worth it.

Not to focus just on, no. And with that much on sub-bass duty, probably not really paying attention to anything else once it's turned up.

Fair enough. Most aren't overly concerned with sq, but the imaging of rear only midbass would bug me to no end. But then, guessing the over whelming bass is the focus of the build, not soundstage and imaging.

Ehy does he want them in the rear doors and not up front?