nigel

okay, well I got some money for my birthday, and was thinking of picking up some mdf to build a ported enclosure for the SUV. Single 15" sub off of 600 watts. mfg reccomended optimal enclosure is 4 cubic ft. tuned to 34 Hz. My max dimensions available are 38.5" W x 24" D x 18" H Here's what I was thinking: 38.5" wide by 18" high by 18" deep (outside measures, using .75" mdf) Sub up, port back. Port 16.5" high by 4" wide by 28" long (acoustical, physical 23.25" since it will have a bend) gives a gross volume of 5.82 cubic ft, net of 4.24 cubic ft after subwoofer and port displacement, tuning of 33.8 Hz will be adding some bracing but not enough to bring tuning above 34 Hz Questions are: For 600 watts power level on a 15" sub, will 66 square inches of port area be enough? Or will I be choking it and causing "chaffing"? If not what port surface area range do I want to be in? Thanks in advance for your advice/help.

roof rack is awesome. put anything up there. It's an RE SEX 15. Yes, plenty of room, so when the helper is old enough and we want to we have something to compete with. The vehicle is a nissan x-trail. Was only available in canada in 2005,2006 plus in europe and australia. Nissan never released a U.S. version of it. Great little SUV and reliable. Was replaced by the rogue which has half the cargo room and is all angles in the back.

it will roll of beginning at 29 hz, depending on the amps ssf setting, either 12,18 or 24 db per octave. This is to help prevent your subwoofer from unloading below tuning frequency of the enclosure and damaging its suspension/coil. Once you begin playing below tuning, you now longer have back pressure inside the enclosure to assist in keeping the cone/motor assembly from driving rearward and bottoming out against the backplate/extreme limits of the suspension depending on driver design, likewise when moving forward, nothing to assist in over excursion other than the suspension. If constantly pushing the sub past it's limits below tuning, it will prematurely wear and cause early failure.

ok, so using the calculation that stefanhinote posted in the how good is your port thread pinned above, using these measures with an input power of 600 watts, it gives me a vent mach percentage of.029341853811 He stated most people shoot to aim for less than .045, so I should be good to go, or is that mach too low?

guess I should give a goal for it as well. This is my daily driver vehicle. Will not be competing of any kind, rest of the speakers in the vehicle are stock at the moment, and are sufficient enough for now. May down the road change the fronts to a component set, but that won't be for a while. Just looking to pick up the bottom end some. Currently running the sub in a sealed enclosure, just looking to get a little more oomph out of it, nothing crazy, was originally bought with the intention of building a ported enclosure but that was for a different vehicle that is no more. Listen to just about everything music wise, country, rock, rap, pop, techno/house etc...

no it's not. He was a true role model. Very professional officer and supervisor. Had the respect of everyone who worked with him or trained under him. I had the fortune of doing both and will always remember the times I've dealt with him in a positive manner.

ok, 18mm linear xmax one way 810 cm^2 Sd Bl of 17.7 Fs of 22 Hz Qes .55 Qms 4.3 Qts .49 VAS 209 liters 88 Db spl 1w/1m Would this help?

RE SEX 15, thought maybe I could leave that out since most on here don't like RE and there is no money in the budget to change the sub.

I bought them on presale before SBN 2012 but I went overseas for my job for 13 months and never hooked them up. I will be switching to Incriminator Amps very shortly but i will only be going with two. Guess what they will be! 80.1's? gonna send me those skar's for guessing correctly? My boat needs a new anchor...

I would suggest finding a way to secure the enclosure to prevent it from tipping, rather than rely on shape. If you were to end up in an accident, if it's not secured it could really do some damage. This would be my first priority.

hope this turns out nice for you. Can't wait for the pics. Wish I had money/time to go out and work on my set up, until then I live vicariously through the build log photos everyone posts.

looks sexy, that is one huge motor. fit on the boot is nice too. My oz audio Matrix elites boot is designed to fit flush like that as well, definitely a nice touch. It's the little things on fit an finish/attention to detail that make all the difference in the world. definitely staying tuned for the fully finished pics. And more angles.

I do believe I'm in love. Is that a single slug, or a boot covering it?

pictures please, and expected price point.

my brother had an old rockford fosgate punch 360a2 amplifier that burnt tinsel leads like a mofo. Just about every other week we were pulling a sub out to resolder a tinsel lead, had phoenix gold and JL both warranty a burnt tinsel lead for us even though it states it's not covered in their warranty info. We swapped the amp out for a different amp, and no more cooked tinsels. Just some nice bass.

if this is your first box, and yo're building by yourself way to go so far. look at your hands, if all the fingers are there, and knuckles aren't all bloodied up your doing a great job and count this build a check in the positive category so far.

I am currently running the Re SEX15 sealed in the back of my SUV, and am loving it. Running it off of a PPI sedona series 850.1 amp. Have to say, ordered the sub over a year ago, had it in the garage until a couple months ago when I finally got around to hooking it up, and after reading all of the negative RE viewpoints being thrown around, I was pleasantly surprised with it. down the road I will likely be building a nice ported enclosure for it, but for know, am definitely enjoying it sealed.

It was moved so Kevin can not edit it.ahh, ok, I agree with your logic and reasoning then. carry on, carry on...

when the hell did this get moved to Off topic? Could've swore it was in Skar's section an hour ago???

I find it's all about doing your homework. I live in a fairly nice neighborhood (smaller homes on my street start ~ $250,000 and go up from there, house directly across the street from me would run you between $400k and $500K if it went up for sale), I'm in the lowest crime rate district area in my city, and it is a small subdivision that only has one entrance/exit. Well lit neighborhood with good streetlighting at night. And is no where close to the higher crime rate areas of town. All these factor higher into not getting your car broken into higher than an alarm.

i forget what it was that I was told when I got my policy to get my deductible from $1000 down to $500, same with the cars I could pay a higher premium and get the deductible from $500 down to $300. To an insurance company it's all percentages and cost benefit. What you pay more in premium has to even out over time to make them more than the $ lost on deductible in the event of a claim payout.

in Canada (for example, not sure about how it is in the U.S.), on your property or not, if your vehicle gets broken into it's auto policy (for anything automotive) plus home policy for anything non automotive specific that may be in the vehicle at the time(tools or CD's for example they try to force the claim on your house) so you wind up paying auto deductible for the car stereo and broken car window ($500 for me) plus they try to say the 120 cd's have to be claimed against the house ($1000 deductible)... It's a lot of arguing with them, a lot. Pretty much, insurance companies will put the claims where they want them, and give you as little as they can. Home deductibles are generally higher, unless you choose to increase your premium quite a bit, due to the fact that there is more value in the home to cover/lose (normally)

you said your dad had his in the back yard behind a closed gate? That means it's out of view from a passerby, if they know it's there it becomes a target if it's out of sight from the general eye. I park mine beside an armed guard tower in a max security prison parking lot, seems to be a good deterrent.

haha, well, If you met my best friends dad (he's a professor of ethics and theology at st. paul's university) you wouldn't even want to start into the philosophy side of things. Give him an hour and he'll leave your head spinning for months on everything you thought you "knew" or "believed". He makes a living off of questioning people's beliefs, and has a ton of fun screwing with the mind of everyone he meets. And I agree, science is just one path of study, what I look for is duplicity. Are you able to generate the same results twice. Like I said above about my wife, that is just one given instance of her having this "gut instinct" as I'll call it. She has had this exact same physiological experience for a week plus with the nightmares etc... numerous times while we've been together, and everytime she'll turn to me, or call me wherever I am and say, "the sick feeling in my stomach just went away" and you could use it to determine time of death on someone we know. happened with her aunt, her cousin, her best friend when she was little, in the story above, and more. It's frightening how accurate it is.

Can't say I disagree with what you are saying, as I agree whole heartedly, that one should question their surroundings, and not blindly believe anything unless it can be proven. Probably why I'm not religious, and hate churches. Have always been someone who needs to see proof before believing, and am normally the one arguing from the side you are. But I also believe that science has it's limitations, and due to the fact that the science we use and follow is being conducted by humans, one must also account for human error in science. Thus the reason for the need for future studies/tests, third party double blind replication of outcomes etc...