nigel

Best way do do tweeters is to get some 2 sided tape and try different locations/angles over a period of time to find where gives the best response. And once you've pegged down a good spot then that's where to install them.

but but, they only work if the record player is on one of their "air dried maple shelves" as no regular shelf could possibly do...

Most will tell you that installation makes the larger difference. A simple lower priced set can sound great if done properly. As an example: These are only $119 and have good reviews http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/incriminator-audio-i-series-6-5-components.html

What do you mean by splice? Generally you run power and ground from front batt to rear batt. And hook your amp to the rear batt. If you have a dual 4 ohm voice coil subwoofer, you need to wire it in parallel to get 2 ohms. Both positives on sub to positive on amp and same for negative to negative.

Hi there, Was just looking for some info./recommendation. Will the HDS300 series 15 (dual 2 ohm coil) work well in a 4 cubic foot ported enclosure tuned to 33 hz. It has 66 square inches of port surface area. And will be getting 850 watts of power from a PPI sedona 850 amp.

Ah. Will check that out. Thanks.

Google Torres box calculator. Best one I've found so far.

Max dimensions? Tuning frequency? Slot port or aero port? How much power will you have on tap?

Scroll down a bit it gives the description on false morels as well. Haven't come across any. But then I don't necessarily go looking.

Just be careful. There's a look a like style mushroom that is very similar to morels that is the poisonous kind. http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morchella

Thank you. Have been thinking of trying something new and the price point on these is great. Just no listed recommendations on the site. That's the amp I have in the vehicle. Currently running at 2 ohms, always looking at options.

Nicely done Q. Looks good.

I'm sorry. You're too cheap to pay a box builder and so expect us to design one. But it's too hard for you to provide us with the necessary information to do a proper design. And get mad at us because your truck is 20 miles away in storage so we have to go find one to get measurements ourselves? But hey we're too lazy to read... Do your own research. You can't ask solve for y where x+z=y. Without giving values for x and z.

Without measurents from you. System goals, music types, amount of power, drivers you wish to use etc... Any guess we make will be invalid. Need to give more details. Ported? Sealed? Etc...

I don't. But then, I'm an a**hole.

Hey now. I'm Canadian and have never left a rant like this over a simple error. Especially one that was refunded. This is just brutal. Everyone makes mistakes, they offered the closest alternative at a lesser cost. In the end a refund was given. Sounds good to me.

So hard to make proper money with this type of work unfortunately. Everyone seems to think the builders time isn't worth anything. No one can see past the price tag to recognize quality. I have a few friends who do custom furniture on the side. And an uncle who's a cabinet maker by trade. All have other jobs as their main source of income.

Pics. Pics. Pics.

Getting good at straight cuts takes time and practice. I was lucky enough to have a dad who was a jack of all trades who did all the manual fix it jobs himself and taught me how when I was still young. Patience and practice. It'll get there. I built my first enclosure at 14 years old with my dads help, and some of those cuts were not pretty.

I have always tuned in the 30-34 hz range for my daily use enclosures. I personally found it to work well with my tastes. Generally with a larger lower tuned enclosure you get a flatter response over a larger range of frequencies, whereas a smaller but higher tune will give a much bigger spike or boost but to a very narrow range comparatively. For example I am currently running a single 15 in 4 cubic feet net tuned to 33Hz. And I find it has great range for multiple genres of music.

Use that short wire you have to go from the + on one side to the + on the other, and repeat for the -. Then hook the + on one to the + on the amp and likewise for -. That will do it. And since they left both strands there for the + to - that they did, just separate them and use them. As shown in thx_elite's link above.

That would be 4.42 gross before sub/port/bracing/walls... Not a ton of room.But still a workable amount. How much airspace do the DSS ethos 12's need? I know Q has it posted in his thread on them. Should definitely check them out.

Is that 5.1cubic feet gross? If so you need to look at what type of airspace the driver requires to function. You can have all the cone you want, but if you choke it to the point of not being functional then it's just useless weight.

Something I have seen shops do, when someone brought them gear to install is set things wrong on purpose so you'll go back. It's a nasty sales tactic. You're unhappy so you go back and they pull the, "gee we don't have issues like that with the product we sell. What you brought us must be cheap, etc..." And then sell people on their products and change the settings/wiring on the reinstall so that their gear functions properly.