DC Power Kyle

Responded.

Got it Kris.

Okay everyone, At times we have a very hard time keeping up with the amount of volume of calls and e-mails we get. Sometimes, voicemails and e-mails get overlooked. ex: We're going to call you back then another customer calls. It's not intentional at all, we're just simply busy and we try our damn best.. Sometimes we have 50-60 calls come through our call center in a single day and we can only get to 20 people because it seems everyone calls in all at once. Not to mention we only have two people (Stan and I) answering the phones. Everyone else is in the back either programming the CNC machines, building alternators, or making harnesses. I would also like to mention that we take our time with our customers, walk them through every question they have so they can make the best choice. Hell, sometimes I will even go over what amplifier may be better for their subwoofer(s). We do our best to return voicemails and e-mails but we're not perfect. Yes, we have had horror stories and sometimes things don't go according to plan or the housing dont line up right on our belt alignment system and things have to be further investigated and fixed. If you call in for almost any Ford or Chevrolet, most Toyotas or Hondas we have you covered. However, if you want out of the ordinary, sometimes out of the ordinary happens. The oddballs is what has cost us so much headache in the past and made us regret doing them. We're moving past that and are trying to go in the right direction. We are just an extremely busy, small company. In the past three years we have continually doubled our sales numbers, which makes things very difficult at times to keep up with. That's all that there is to it. If you guys need ANY assistance, you can e-mail me, or stan at the following e-mail addresses: kyle @ dcpowerinc.com stan @ dcpowerinc.com Food for thought: DC Power is NOT reinventing the wheel at all. We are making a completely new wheel. We have to R&D all of our own casings to fit EACH individual vehicle. This isn't done at the OEM level, this is done at DC Power's level IN HOUSE. We are taking XPs and putting them in vehicles that were NEVER designed to have one in them. We strive for the best, and sometimes, the best takes nothing but time. Just remember, Apple didn't become who they are today overnight. PLEASE NOTE: Robbie is simply too busy to get on the forums at this time. DO NOT PM HIM unless you want to get no response back. E-mailing myself or stan, or calling is the best way to get a hold of us.

I honestly can not make promises at this time.

Alright everyone, we are deciding to give away a White iPad 2 16GB to one lucky customer that purchases something from us in the month of June thats $250 or more. It's plain and simple and there is NO catch. Simply place an order and we will do a drawing at the end of the month and someone will be getting an iPad 2 sent to their door. You can do this by placing an order over the internet OR by calling us. Everyone is automatically entered. Cheers!

The problem with the 1MZ situation is there is really no easy way to do it without making a billet casing. We have it in the queue of cases to do, unfortunately it's a couple of months out. We were trying to find something close to match it to with an easier bracket, but there isn't really close. The one 1MZ XP we did was my previous car. the bracket was a single mock up job and took over 4 hours to get it to "fit" not to mention it taking all day on the fabrication. We also don't have that bracket anymore as well. Everyone unfortunately is just going to have to hold on until we make the billet casings for 1MZ-FE. This will make for a clean direct fit with no frustrations that we dealt with.

Don, Shoot me a PM with what you and Rob have been discussing so I can get up to speed. Rob has been way too busy to get on any forums lately.

Yes, I actually removed it to rewrite it but my day got extremely busy as usual. Randy, Shoot me an PM with your email address so I can send you the call tags to get this taken care of. Edit: I see your PM.

Randy and everyone else, As you know this thread has been one hell of a roller coaster, mostly a crazy downhill roller coaster. Randy, unfortunately after trying to figure out what we are going to do with your 16v setup, there is no possible way to get those alternators internally regulated and charge at 16v. The XS VCM doesn't work with these alternators. I sat and tried to get the VCM to work with no luck. We think it has to do with our alternators being 6 phase versus a 3 phase unit (this throws the frequency off on the alternator versus what the VCM is used to seeing). So this throws off how the VCM interacts with the regulator. Again, this is just speculation on the VCM situation. As for the bracket and pump, we thought we sent it out to you and I dug in previous shipments for about an hour. Turns out it was never sent to you and someone else got it. I have yet to receive a phone call from anyone asking why they got a bracket. So unfortunately this is what we're going to have to do, I am going to issue you a call tag for everything back and give you a refund for the full amount that you paid. We simply have exhausted every option of trying to completely satisfy your needs of the 16v setup and it's just not possible with anything available at this time. And unfortunately, we just don't have the bracket to send as someone else has it. Please PM me your email address so i can get a fedex call tag set up for everything. Thank you.

Kris, forward whatever you sent to rob to my PM box.

Erg. PM me your new address.

It's all good. We look forward to hearing from ya soon!

There is nothing wrong with the plug. Disregard the missing wire because its not needed. By the way, I do not see a PM from you in my inbox. Send me whatever other issues you may be having.

Eric Im going to try and send you an idler today. Looks like someone took it.

Eric, why are you looking for an idler pulley when we sent you one with the alternator? Why did it not get used?

Well the wire is good stuff. I would still have the alt bench tested. Again not that I doubt DC (hell I run their product) and I'm definitely not saying they don't know their sh*t or anything like that. I don't want to be misunderstood here. It's just that sometimes weird things happen. Seeing his post saying that he doesn't understand why your having the issue (and I don't either) would prompt me to do it as a just in case. And maybe try throwing the smaller pulley back on just to see the result? I'm just throwing ideas out there for the proccess of elimination. I understand what you are saying. I had issues with this alternator unrelated to belt slip or voltage fluctuations. The alternator completely stopped working, no voltage output at all. I sent it back to DC Power they tested it and said it was good. Conclusion was it was a weird anomaly. I am getting frustrated with this as I am sure DC Power is as well. I have never heard of anybody having issues with DC Power's alternator output. This is why I believe it is my setup that is at fault, I just cannot come to a definite conclusion to where the weak link is. I take alot of time to research and to install my setup so I do not have problem. I do not want to throw money into it without knowing 100% that it is going to be effective. I will look into benching testing this alternator, if I can find someone local to test it. Based on DC Power's outstanding customer satisfaction in their product I do not expect to see anything other than steller output. Just have to remember that somehow you still may have belt slip...

Oleg, I have refunded your transaction since we're having a very difficult time sourcing the parts. The parts we thought that were going to fix the fitment issue turned out not to be the correct ones. I really apologize about this and wish this could've went smoother.

No problem.

I honestly have no clue why you're having voltage issues like that. I had a SAZ-3500D which is pretty much the same amp but a little more power at a half ohm while still maintaining over 14 volts. How does the voltage look when you go to lets say 3k rpm or more? Just for reference.

What are your amps again? What nominal load?

The xps actually gain output. The 270 will do like 274 at 19-21 volts and the 390 does over 400 at 19 volts. The biggest thing is heat which is why a lot fail when ran at higher voltages the xps can do it though because of their stator design and rectifier.

Oops if i'm wrong but wouldn't putting a smaller pulley on make the engine work harder, not less wear and tear? >> Yes the engine works harder just like when you put your A/C on. I have oil analysis' done to my car and have shown no signs of engine wear. Hell they told me to even run my Mobil 1 to 7500 miles before changing. So there are no apparent signs to more wear and tear on the engine even on my little 4 cylinder. Smaller pulley would cause the alternator to spin faster. That means smaller pulley compared to whatever is "supposed" to be used means the alternator will be putting out more power at a lower rpm than normal... that means more horsepower loss at a lower rpm which means even more sluggish driving while under maximum load. >> I can hardly tell my alternator is there under full load when i reach over 1200 RPMs. Then again, I have a TON of weight in my car too so yeah it's a little sluggish. So barely noticeable. I would NOT put a smaller pulley on anything when buying a new high output alternator. If anything, you would want a larger pulley if you do not like the feel of the car at rpms around ~1000rpm or lower. >> On our cars if you run anything besides a 180HP or XP series alternator it will NOT charge well at all with a larger size pulley thats <= 2inches very well because of how low our cars idle. They idle 400-500 rpms less than what every manufacture "rates" idle at. I can hardly tell my alternator is there half the time unless I really get on it for quite some time and the batteries are recharging and I have my A/C on full blast. Larger pulley would drop the output at rated rpm by several amps. >> More than several... it could make the difference between charging and not charging.. lots of high output alternator companies need to rely on the smallest pulley to get the bare minimum of idle output to charge the vehicle. XPs however you can run a 4 inch pulley and it will still out charge 85-90% of the other "high output" alternators. The alternator can still produce maximum rated power, just at slightly higher rpm. This isn't exact but an example is the following- If a 270 can do ~240A HOT @1800rpm, Then larger pulley may not output 240A HOT until ~2500rpm for example... Again, not exact math, just randomizin numbers for ya. 4 cylinders make a difference in MPG but honestly OP has a huge engine and probably wont even know the alternator is there. PS: Let's use a 3 to 1 ratio for this example... 3 Alternator RPM to 1 ENGINE RPM. So lets break it down for everyone really quick: 1600 RPM - 533 Engine RPM 1800 RPM - 600 Engine RPM 2000 RPM - 666 Engine RPM 2250 RPM - 750 Engine RPM 2500 RPM - 833 Engine RPM 3000 RPM - 1000 Engine RPM 4000 RPM - 1333 Engine RPM 6000 RPM - 2000 Engine RPM 7000 RPM - 2333 Engine RPM 8000 RPM - 2666 Engine RPM (My Car idles at 650-700 with my A/C on full blast and 700-750 without A/C) A "220 Amp" alternator that is supposedly a universal alternator... that was ran out of the freezer to get the best output possible... Now compare this to a 180HP: Now compare this to a 270XP: Now that is why even a little change in pulley size with a poorly designed high output alternator can charge your car or simply, not charge at all.

mehbeh.

yes and yes

We technically can... but honestly prefer not to do it cause the post man decides to come when he wants to... :\