DC Power Kyle

Will be getting started on it tomorrow gonna try to ship it tomorrow too

Not really fully discharged.. they were at 12.4? 12.5... the carputer has a 2 amp draw... Car started on its own and everything.

Talked to you today bud, I've been on the phone non stop for the past two days. We will have a new phone system in 3 weeks and will be able to have 15 people in a queue until someone answers.. between call after call, shipping, and SEMA coming up in a few weeks it's been hectic. I'm not trying to ignore anyone.. I've just been swamped with calls.

you should be fine with a 180 for 2400 watts. I ran a SAZ-3500D @ .5 daily and max draw was 230 amps. We're adjusting pricing on the website and we already adjusted the HP series.. gotta do the OEMs next.

http://secondskinaudio.com/thermal-acoustic-insulation/firewall.php

the 180HP loses 15% output hot versus the 170OEM which loses 25-30%. So in a sense, the 180 maintains higher amperage and better idle as well. You can't go wrong with either, but i personally would go with the 180 so you have more room for growth for your system.

Sounds like mad clipping...

And no, 270 is a large case denso while 320 is a small case denso. I would run a single 270XP over a single 320HP every day of the week...

A/C Compressor won't be removed.. only way it will be done.

i have something different in mind 2 320s maybe!

Eh, it gets used to it. Not really but hahahah. Just thought I would share.

Yes, it would compliment the stock battery and help it out A LOT!

DC Power Engineering was started for one reason. That one reason was to be the best. Now I'm not talking about the best at one particular thing. I'm talking about the best at EVERYTHING. Before DC Power Engineering, Robbie Henstrom (our CEO) had a shop in SLC, Utah. Dave Baird (our CFO) had a local shop right where we are located today. Dave and Robbie both being in the industry for over 30 years decided to partner together and create DC Power Engineering after working together for years beforehand. The first step was to follow in the steps of OE manufactures and not the "cheap" chinese aftermarket stuff you see today. We started off by negotiating with the big OE suppliers such as Denso, Delco Remy, and other big companies. Now I know my next door neighbor has a 93 Honda Accord with 287,xxx miles on it. Honda at that time to present date is using Denso alternators. Now it's pretty impressive when you look from the perspective of a stock alternator never having to be repaired and still working great after 287,000 miles. With that in mind, that's why we chose to go with the OE route. The OEM alternators just work and are designed to last for long periods of time. We want to be the last alternator you'll ever have to buy. We at DC Power are constantly innovating and developing ways for more cars to experience the "DC Power Advantage". Instead of using stock OE cases and internals for the older vehicles and vehicles with POOR OE alternators *COUGH* FORD *COUGH*, we are using the latest and greatest technology available to the market. The Denso Hairpin alternators. The market generally only sees hairpin stators in the cars they were made for. Instead, we are taking small case and large case XPs to as many vehicles as possible. Now imagine of not having to deal with the horrible Ford alternator design ever again. Bringing the 270XPs to the Ford Gas and Diesel engines have been a huge success. 200 amps at idle on a power stroke Diesel or a ford gas engine. Can you say, AWESOME?! (We DO NOT sell Ford "3G" or "6G" high output alternators, we sell our own custom large case proprietary DC Power Engineering alternators along with our exclusive XP series to Fords. We refuse to touch the stock ford alternators because they honestly just don't work. They're crap and we won't put our name on ANYTHING that we wouldn't run in our own vehicles.) We have brought the XP to the following markets so far to GM, Nissan, Toyota, Chrysler and Ford. Now of course, not every vehicle can run a XP at this time. However, if it's possible, you bet that we have a solution or will have one very soon! We're also planning on bringing it to other vehicles as well and we will keep you posted. Now what's cool about these Denso alternators is if you buy a large case 270XP for your 2003 Tahoe 5.7 and you want to keep your alternator. Well guess what, you can! We can recase it for pretty much everything listed above. For example, Chevy Tahoe to Dodge Durango Dodge Durango to Ford Power Stroke Disel Ford Powerstroke Diesel to Ford Gas Ford Gas to Nissan Nissan to Toyota. Any vehicle that we offer an XP for the same alternator can be re-cased. Now of course there is a fee of around 90-130 bucks roughly. But hey, thats better than throwing down another 500 dollars! Right? However with this customization comes big dilemmas. THE DEMAND. We get overwhelmed with everyone wanting our XP alternators that it's hard to keep our supply up sometimes. In 2011 we have already fixed this problem and have things in place that will be done by that time to make sure we're ready for big orders after SEMA this year. (Wish I could go into detail ) So please understand that due to the overwhelming demand of these alternators and the time we're spending prototyping to getting these in all the vehicles possible that things sometimes get backed up. However I assure you that we're doing our best to get things out as soon as they're available. The only thing you'll find about us online is that we've been really slow in the past in getting certain things out for people. I personally haven't found one thread about someone saying that our alternators are junk or have failed. Now yes we've had very few failures on our alternators and no one is perfect. However, our XP series alternators over the 5k units that have been built and sold have had.... guess how many have failed.... NONE! May I also mention that the large case Denso alternator (270XP) was rated at 180 (155 HOT) amps at 1,800 ALTERNATOR RPMs. Not engine RPMs but alternator RPMs. The industry still rates their alternators at 2,400 and claim large idle numbers. Well if we were to rate the XP at 2400 alternator RPMs it would do 228 amps or so at idle (185amps HOT!). So even at the lowest idle speeds this alternator will outperform ANYTHING on the market. Not many alternators can sit at idle for 5 hours straight and maintain 160 amps at idle at 14 volts. This is why we've invested all of our time and efforts into getting this technology into the hands of consumers. Just to give everyone an idea. Typical build time is 3-5 business days on orders. There are some applications that may take longer but the customer WILL be informed of the wait beforehand. We stand behind our product and will always be there when you need us most. Please let me know if there is anything we can do for you.

180 amp allllll day long 320 is overkill. I have a 02 camry.... and yes, the same are offered, except different case. minus the XP series (230,250,270XP)

You heard it right guys, this is a WEB ONLY deal and we have had great success with our OEM 190 series. I would highly suggest you guys checking it out. https://www.dcpowerinc.com/dual-alternator-kits/gm/1999-2010-chevy-5-3-5-7-6-0-6-2-dual-alternator-bracket-with-190-amp-oem-series-alternator.html

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MSc4UEmYoDE Part 2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ArVKKinez2Q

My dad has that car. Toyota screwed us on the belt and made it like a 4 rib belt for the alternator. We can turn it into something more most likely but would have to talk with Rob tomorrow when I get in. Give us a call at the shop tomorrow

What year camry? and not for 400....

Starting tomorrow I will be out of the country until the following wednesday. Just letting you guys know! Rob may pop in from time to time but if you guys need anything at all call us at 888-441-0144. Thanks!

Here's a couple of pics http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/102298/1/Cabo?h=8d4f96

Cabo it be!

We do not have a dual kit unfortunately for the Impala. However, we can do a single 380 amp in there if you really need the top end power. Or we can do our 270XP that will do about 180-200 amps at idle with 270 amps on the top end.

Okay, just FYI that I have a 2002 Toyota Camry 4cyl as well. So we've done quite the testing on it! So here's what it boils down to: The industry rates the alternator output at idle at 2,400-2,500 alternator RPMs. Now the problem with that is our car idles at about 600~ engine RPMs and with the small crank pulley diameter (industry standard is usually based on a GM V8 with a 7.75 inch crank pulley, not like the 6 inch crank pulley in our cars.) This equates to about 2,000 alternator RPMs with the A/C WITH an overdrive pulley on the alternator and NOT what everyone rates them at. We are giving you true idle output ratings and not test bench ratings. Having the vehicle in front of us running these tests have made us very familiar with the engine. If you were to put that 320HP on to a GM V8, you'd see about 140 at idle, but on our Camry's we're losing 40 amps at idle. The 180HP has better idle output due to being able to tone down the top end to gain higher idle output. Now the 270XP version for our vehicles will do close to 190 at idle after the engine catches itself and compensates for the alternator load AT 2,000 alternator RPMs. The 270XP will do over 200 at idle on a Chevy V8 engine. So the difference between us and the competition? I guess you can say that we like to actually tell our customers what they're truly getting and not boast our idle output numbers like the rest. Hope that answers your questions OH and just to let you know. These alternators DO NOT BREAK. They're based of of the Denso OEM Hairpin platform and have the most sophisticated regulators out there. Heat is NOT an issue with a hairpin. I rolled around with a 130HP (130 MAX OUTPUT) for 6 months running a SAZ-3500D at .5 and beating the crap out of it. Guess what? Didn't break So you can expect 100 amps at idle MINIMUM.. not something that we're guessing. We know this because of our actual testing on the vehicle.

That's not even needed. Take the battery out. Take the airbox out. remove the alternator positive from the battery go to the starter b+ terminal and put the accessory positive on the starter b+ along with a brand new 0 gauge wire and call it a day. did it on mine and oh boy does my car start faster that way, no bare wires! i dont even use my stock alternator positive.. just ran 0 gauge across to the battery by the radiator.