MrSwiss

eh i have my amp all the way up and my rl-15 sounds awesome lol

its true. just finished tuning my amp. 740wrms i turn it all the way up, but in order to get the rl-p 15 fully moving i need to turn on bass boost. it does distort the signal but the rl-p is moving good. so if i turn down the gain a bit to compensate it sounds ok, but it does affect my SQ which i dont like. may have to actually buy a quality amp now lol

i agree with jelly. the rl-p has become so prestigious its pretty amazing. just the soundsplinter name right now has so much to live up to. i wouldnt be surprised if a few ppl were not dissapointed. but then again these drivers are made purely for SQ, but manage to have very nice output. just get your enclosure built to specs, and u will be satisfied. the sub is just 1 small part of the equation.

yah i currently have my dads redtop in my car, for the past cpl weeks. next pay dayim def getting a 200a alt, but for now i have bills i need to take care of =/

if any of your friends have a system, see if u can drop your rl-p into one of there boxes(if they have the same size sub), and see how it sounds. yes the box is just as important as the sub. infact the rl-p makes almost 0 sound outside of a box. that should give u an idea how important the right enclosure is.

hey u r right about i wired it to a wrong load mono. but i dont think that was my problem, its a dieing alternator and i had to get another jump today. thew other car almost stalled when we attached the lines!!!

get us some vids lol

i had the positives and negatives of each coil wired to eachother, and from their ran into the amp. postive of left channel, negative or right channel. "now u should a positive from one vc and a negative from the other wired together and teh remaining running to the amp, right? if so, u are now showing the amp a 8 ohm mono load. (if u still have the amp bridged)" thats correct. funny, my car died today at work lol =(

well im not exactly an audio veteran. im not even sure if it was 2 ohm mono. tho i did fry 1 amp already on this rl-p. im more than sure the one i have now is installed and wired correctly. i know its my car electrical system. i can check by testing my blinkers. when they blink in long intervals, the battery isnt charging. turn off the bass for about 5 mins, and theyu begin to blink at normal speed once again. Maybe its time to up the big 3.

bleh! im still getting power fluctuations it doesnt make sense. my lights are not dimming tho. here is the amp i have http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...ssPageName=WDVW

the only negative of this operation is that i reused the same wire, and it was a bit lengthy, so i think its rattling slighty against the box interior. and when the volume is low u can hear it. of course the trunk must be open and u would have to have your ear to it. otherwords, u can hear a thing inside the vehicle. and my lights no longer dimm. and after a day of average travel, the sub appears to be putting out a steady volume than b4. u could literally predict when the car was gonna die becuz the sub would start to get quiet, and loud, and quiet again. im glad that is fixed.

well i rewired the sub today using a 8 ohm diagram, altho its still bridged for a mono output, so that would make it 4 ohms correct? its a power acoutik amp, and u bridge the postive of 1 channel and the negative of the other channel to the sub, that would make it mono correct.

u have a d4..u can only wire at 2 ohm mono, 4 ohm stereo or 8 ohm mono. the answer to ur question lies in ur amp....what is it? what are it's specs? does it have a regulated power supply? and yes, the same power at 4 ohm is easier on the electrical system then the same power at 2 ohm...but i don't know why..lol..ijust know it is from experience. it has something to due with the current and amperge draw at that particular resistance...assuming both class d or similiar technology wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee <{POST_SNAPBACK}> hmm since i only have one rl-p, then it wouldnt be smart to wire it at 4 ohms stereo. its a power acoustik 1600w amp not sure which series.

so i have my single rl-p bridged @ 2 ohms. are u saying i should wire it at 4 ohms, and maybe i dont need a new alt???

hah welcome to the money hole that is car audio.

hey i have a similiar question. when i push my rl-p to the max, it makes like this BBBRRRpp noise when it reaches maximum excursion, and thats when i know not to turn it up any louder. im thinking this is the cone hitting the basket or something along those lines??? or what could be that noise. i know my dads 10w3 used to do that all the time once i think about it. but he had that little thing wangin to the max. i wonder how unhealthy it is.

hey u should've snuck and got us some vids of the rl-s!!!!

i have to agree with everyone else on the rl-p it is increidibly loud at low frequencies. i wasnt sure if it was just my trunk acting as a second enclosure or what not, but my low end is nearly twice as loud as the higher end.

gay slot?

came from the not-so-local dealer today. heard some jl 10w3v2's. it sounded like a tweeter compared to my rl-p lol

coolies im guessing im going sealed with the recommended size. im more than confident im not gonna need any help "designing" it lol. i have some friends who know a thing or too. today i demolished my old box, what a piece of crap. it was held togethor by a staple gun, and the thing was about 15% air tight what a piece of junk. im glad im not putting a rl-p in that thing.

well my rl-15 is on the way and im onlky pushin 600 watts to it, and im thinking of porting it. i believe the recommended tuning is 28hz? there are prefab boxes on ebay pretty cheap but tuned to 38hz X_X right now im throwin togethor a ghetto sealed from a dual sealed box i had from my last pair of subs, but i dont plan on keepin that as the permanent home of my oh so sexy rl-p =)

now that is something i may do, have someone desing me a box. for now im gonna throw togethor a box and see how it turns out.

i'd rather build one myself