Jay-C76

No, there are no rules that say that. It is regularly the easiest to do that though as you can imagine just by thinking about the build. Definitely making this hard. Generically you only need to worry about the length and not shape. Turn it as you have to, but when you do the only shape consideration is to minimize the restriction to air movement and you are golden. X2 It's easier to build it off to the side. The only reason I have shown these "L" shaped ports is because I generally tune on the low side with large port area. Typically the larger the port area and the lower the tuning, the port will need to be fairly long.

And it took the woopin that I gave it... am I saying go do this everyday if you can afford it of course! LOL but what I am saying is SSA ZCON is BY FAR THE BEST SUB I have heard....owned..... and experienced! Compared to what? kenwood, sony xplodes, pyramids, crunch, hifonics......... ALL the best brands out there! Blew pop out my nose when I read this!!! LMAO

This may or may not help, This is of an old enclosure I did a couple years ago.... This is of the one I did last year... You can barely see the layout lines but this is the proper layout for the 45 degree at the bend of the port. The underside of the enclosure. Here's a enclosure I built for a bud of mine for his 4~15's Hopefully these may help you better understand what needs to be done to help "bank" the air to reduce turbulence in the port.

Gassing up the truck and I'm on my way down there! LOL

Are you building these in your basement?

You're freakin' nuts Dave! LOL

Does this involve a forklift by any means?????

Mother of GOD!!!! I'm driving to Louisville to slap you!

If it's in the middle of the enclosure and is longer than the internal measurements with a dual sub set up, the port should be a "T" shape not an "L". Unless it is on one of the outer walls of the enclosure. Cut wood forced to bend???? Do you mean a flare opening? If so, the panels will need kerf cuts to make that happen.

My favorite is the white, the print really pops!!

You freakin' tease! Get on with it!!!

Then an Icon would be a good choice for those music types. It's a Sound Quality woofer that can deliver superior sound on a wide range of notes. As far as space, the enclosure design would be a little tricky since the front to back measurements are so tight. The mounting depth on the 10" Icon is 6" and you'll need to leave room for the pole vent on the rear of the sub. Also keep in mind the excursion of the sub when it hits notes. You don't want the sub slapping against the seat or anything while it's playing.

Oh, that's priceless Aaron!!

You are a worthy opponent. I see your Schwartz is as big as mine! LOL (Spaceballs FTW!)

70 amps for the car audio, then like 15 for the lights, then whatever the engine uses, plus all the other electrical being used by the car...... It's cutting the amperage draw pretty close. Do all the math of what the whole car is using and you'll see exactly what you current draw is, not just the stereo components.

Seems like too much of a load on the alternator and it can't keep up with the demand.

I'll beat that! I'll be runnin' a single speaker set up from out of my son's Buz Lightyear alarm clock on 3 watch batteries in a 2.2 cu.ft. enclosure with 200 sq.in. of port tuned to 5hz. This baby's gonna split the asphalt !!!!!! Placing 1st is a sure bet, I'm making up a new class called Stock -3 class metered in the cup holder!

Come get you some!!!

Secondary battery wouldn't hurt.

My door speakers are louder than your whole set-up right now!!! LMAO Come on up here and I'll rattle your brain with some real lows! On this side of the river we tune em' low and loud!

Kentucky....pfffffftttt!

That gay meter is rising!