Old_Skool_Noma

hello from newark, i think its possible to do 2 12s with a decent amp for 300, however, i wouldnt have best buy do it as you wont get anything good for that price, if you would like some help PM me, or my messengers might be available on here. as for ported vs sealed dont even bother with pre made boxes that are ported, you will rarely get one that works well with the subs that you choose, besides, you can build your own much cheaper and better

oh, another thing i forgot is to try using the bottom of your dash sort of as a wave guide, it may work for you, it may not. but a lot of people will use play dough to test pont speakers to get imaging as well

a lot of lower cost component speakers dont have a very good low end response or the response may be peaky, it kind of hit and miss although you might find a good deal and get something on clearance that would normally be about 200. as for sound deadener, make sure you get something butyl based, my personal preference in bang for your buck is RAAMmat, you can order it directly from raamaudio.com also when looking for component/coaxial sets, find something with a decent sized cross over (not just a capacitor to filter out the lows going to the tweeter) 12 db/octave is generally a good sign, but most 6db x overs are fine, and make sure you find something with AT LEAST a 3/4 inch soft or silk dome tweeter, 1 or 1 1/8th is better, but the soft, silk, or textile dome is important otherwise you risk the tweets getting very harsh, ribbon/planar tweets are awesome, but are not forgiving at all with off axis response and need an 18db/octave high pass crossover to you dont destroy the ribbon

i guess it would depend on how much other people ride with you, or if you planned to take to to any competitions, i forgot to mention that soft dome tweets are much more forgiving about off axis response than ribbon tweets, by aiming them to the center of the car, it gives a balanced listening environment for both passengers, if you rarely have anyone ride with you, or arent planning on any SQ competitions, then by all means aim them for you, but passenger imaging scores would be affected otherwise

thats what its sounding like to me, if you looks around you may be able to find a few used components for cheap, or on clearance, another thought would be to find some good coaxials (jbl cdt vifa and others of the sort) but i would definitely do the sound deadener, it will make a huge improvement, and then go from there, also, clarion is great quality stuff, although not always the most user friendly I think it's pointless to add sound deadener if he's going to run coaxials or something cheap. It will help, but will it make them sound 'good.' I doubt it. i dont think its pointless at all, 1. it will cut down on road noise, 2. it will improve midbass response, ive even heard of people getting quite dramatic differences with stock speakers. for what hes wanting to do, a set of good coaxials may be the way to go for him as a good set of components can cost upwards of 150, and some coaxials of the same quality may only cost 80-100

ive heard to take a thumbtack and put in a tennis ball to hang it from the ceiling in the center of where the front passengers will be sitting to aim the speakers at, the lazer pen would work great to aim from the phase plug, i would say try to get the midranges no more than 30* off axis and the midbass IIRC you can fire straight across with no ill effect, tweets should be as close to on axis to your ears as you can, ESP if you go with a ribbon or planar type

thats what its sounding like to me, if you looks around you may be able to find a few used components for cheap, or on clearance, another thought would be to find some good coaxials (jbl cdt vifa and others of the sort) but i would definitely do the sound deadener, it will make a huge improvement, and then go from there, also, clarion is great quality stuff, although not always the most user friendly

shhh, dey not supposed to know i is stalking joo!!

thanks, i was actually considering going active, but given that i drive a standard cab sonoma, its hard enough to find room for the three amps that im planning to run, so adding another 4 channel to that would be extremely hard, also, im not super worried about the rs225 getting super low as that will be handled by the subs, as long as its pretty flat down to about 80 hz, im fine. also regarding the rs125, ive heard of people running the 225 almost as high as you say with the 125 and not having a problem, another option that i was considering was running the RS100 instead of the 125, and i may bring back that idea http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.c...tnumber=295-378

The Street Stock class is intended for normal, after market auto sound systems. The equipment permitted in these classes is restricted to the "consumer-grade" components that are sold everyday at auto sound retail establishments. Veteran contestants, competition teams, and "hardcore" competitors are encouraged to compete in one of our other divisions. * Only consumer grade components may be used. * Any number of amplifiers may be used. However, the maximum total RMS power in the system must be 2000 watts or less. * Woofers with cast frame baskets are prohibited. * The maximum voice coil diameter is 2.5 inches. * Vans, CRX's, Panda's (or Panda derivatives), and commercial vehicles are prohibited from competing in the Street Stock Division. * Contestants must play music when competing. Test tones (or songs containing test tones) are prohibited. * Street Stock Class - 2000 Watts maximum total RMS power. A maximum of 4 conductors may be attached to each woofer. (Please see the definitions section for more detail regarding conductors.) o One 15-inch woofer o OR a maximum of two 12-inch woofers o OR a maximum of three 10-inch woofers o OR a maximum of four 8-inch woofers Street Stock Division Passenger Compartment Restrictions 3-9a Nothing in the sound system may interfere with the normal use and / or operation of the vehicle in front of the B-Pillar. 3-9b Seats may be folded for competition, but may not be removed from the vehicle. Competitors who fold their seats must be able to demonstrate that the installation of the sound system does not interfere with the normal operation of the seats that were folded. Street Stock Division Installation Restrictions 6-7a Speaker enclosures extending above the top of the front seats (excluding head rests) are prohibited. Walls are prohibited. 6-7b All loudspeaker enclosures and/or baffle boards with the exception of those mounted in the kick-panels or doors shall be located behind the B-pillar. 6-7c Competitors in the Street Stock division are limited to a single 650 cubic inch (10652 cubic cm) or smaller battery. Additional Guidelines: * Only "standard", 12-volt, 6-cell (connected in series), lead/acid or gel-type batteries are permitted in the Street Stock Division. * Aftermarket batteries are acceptable provided no other applicable rules are violated. * Hybrid (ie 12/16 volt) and/or custom-made batteries are prohibited. * The physical size of each battery is calculated from the physical dimensions of the battery. (Height x Length x Width excluding the battery terminals) The physical shape of the battery is irrelevant. * The primary battery must be located in the same general area as the OEM battery location. (For example, if the OEM battery location is under the hood, the primary battery must be located under the hood as well. Aftermarket battery trays and/or custom fabricated battery brackets may be installed provided no other applicable rules are violated.) * Batteries may not be mounted underneath the vehicle. (Underbody battery boxes, racks, etc. are prohibited.) * Batteries may not be swapped out during the course of an event. * Batteries that are designed in such a manner as to circumvent the above rules may be deemed illegal by the dBDRA. 6-7d Temporary structural reinforcements to the vehicle are prohibited during competition. This includes attaching straps, suction cups, sand bags, etc. to the vehicle. However, pressing on the doors, windows, trunk and / or laying on the hood, roof, etc. is acceptable providing no other applicable rules are violated. i was looking at this last night too, and i remember it saying that amps could be mounted under the seats as long as that were entirely under them

only thing i can guess is that maybe your one of your RCA jacks may have come unsoldered, have you tested your amps individually?

if the amp is 2 channel, yes, and as for the what the amp will do for your signal, the HU power is incredibly dirty, lots of audible distortion, especially at higher volumes, a high enough powered amp will give you a clean signal up until its either fed a dirty signal or the speakers distort

i like the way this thread is going, and ///M5 i keep trying to read your posts but you sig is so distracting, an an awesome sort of way i cant stop looking. back on topic: actually im planning on doing a similar DIY component set, so ill post up what ive been planning for my truck Dayton RS225-4 midbass http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.c...tnumber=295-376 Dayton RS125-4 midrange http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.c...tnumber=295-370 heres where in having decision troubles tang band 1" tweet http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.c...tnumber=264-804 Dayton 1 1/8" tweet http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.c...tnumber=275-040 Morel 1 1/8" tweet http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.c...tnumber=277-060 i think the morel may be the way for me to go since its 8 ohm so id have a better chance of finding a crossover so i dont have to build them

Right now, I wouldn't really worry about getting components if you will just be running them from the head unit, you wont notice much a difference. I ran my components from my HU for a couple months, then a few weeks ago I put a small amp on them, the difference is night and day, so, my suggestion would be to find another amp, and run your current speakers from it, as well as get some sound deadener and cover your outer door skin and the also the area behind the door panel, make sure to get all the access holes covered to make your doors act more like an enclosure rather than a free air system, then later get a nice component set when you have the money to spend on it, otherwise you will just be buying another set down the road

hello, I've helped design an enclosure for a BTL 18 that was going in a blazer, unfortunately my design wasn't used becasue I really wanted to see how it would do. As far as I can tell, most people are running them from a sundown saz3000d, the amp requires a 300 amp external fuse, and you will defiantly need to upgrade your electrical system if you haven't already. I've heard that the newer BTL will take 3000 watts RMS just fine, so you shouldn't need to set the gain any lower than normal.