kirill007

Isn't a good thing for customers to have a wide range to choose from? I don't mind more products for the same application as that usually results to lower prices. There are so many components that are alike, but does that bother the customer? (it doesn't bother me)

Try to see if you can measure DC voltage through the speaker outputs when you are playing a (few) song(s).

Efficiency doesn't correlate to output capabilities either. Don't you mean sensitivity/SPL rating (1w/m or 2.83V/m). Efficiency does correlate to output, because efficiency=(Usefull energy/Total energy)*100% . (which in this case is acoustic energy divided by energy put in the driver times 100%)

That's the problem with most voltage meters, they don't pick up the change in voltage quick enough. If you had a analog voltmeter or a VM-1 you could probably see how low you are actually dropping. Didn't anyone tell you it's stupid to run a amp at .5ohm or that you have to fuse everything if you don't want anything burning down.

"Everyone says that you will burn muscle if you do not eat, which has never been proven." If they mean that you won't burn muscles if you still have fat, then this statement is true. If you have no fat left, only then you will start burning muscle.

He used to say that in quite a few cases a amp blew because a DD-1 was used.

You could use the SSF on the headunit or put a inline subsonic filter.

It doesn't matter how much play hours it has, you abused the subwoofer, taking it past the excursion limits, that's why the leads broke.(or playing it at the limit for a while)

Turn your subsonic filter up, or don't play any songs that go more then 2-3hz below tuning.

Looks like it has experienced some overexcursion. I would fix the settings on your amp/HU that caused this before putting in a freshly reconed sub. You can send it in to Fi if you want to get it reconed, or order a recone and recone it yourself. (or find someone around you who knows how to do it properly and offer him a beer for it )

Is this score just to show us that it plays relatively flat? That isn't at full volume, now is it?

Why not use a screwdriver so you will be less likely to damage something? Did you call RF to tell them the connectors don't fit? (I would be surprised if they didn't help you out.)

I think the manual is wrong I am just trying to state how fault maunfacturers are Quote exactly how it is stated in the manual, or post a picture of it

I've never heard anyone complain about the havoc... Which isn't true ofcourse, just like people have complained about the w7 because it's not loud enough. Having that said i would still choose to go with the w7 eventhough it handles less power.

I'm pretty sure the guys over at Fi could produce a sub that can handle 10kw rms, the only problem is that it wouldn't sell because people aren't ready for it.

Basic math using ohms law. current = square root of watts/ohms so for 10,000 watts at one ohm you're looking at 100 amps. There are competitiors running 10's of thousands of watts. The maximum AWG current loads can be googled for different wire sizes. A thermocouple can be helpfull for people running more than recommended power, i.e. competitors. Heat causes the glues on coils to loosen causing the magnet wire to unwind. If you know the temp of the coil then you will know if it is safely handling the power being put to it. But isn't 0 guage wire a little overkill? Just like the guy above me told 4 guage will be more then enough. If you have a dual coil sub with 2 connectors you usually have 2 8guage wires(or in your case 2 0guage wires), so that's about the same as 1 4guage. I like the idea, i just think it's just useless, because a wire can handle a lot more then it's rating for only a small amount of time. Does the thermocouple react fast enough in changes in temperature? (i mean if you want people to use it for SPL, it's usually a short 3s burst where temperature skyrockets, i think that change is only measureable quick enough with a IR-thermometer.) Or is it for people who cross RMS rating on a daily basis and want to know how much power they can actually add before the subwoofer breaks? (not every coil is perfectly the same and i don't think it's usefull to add a few watts and not hear any difference.) I just see it as a great gadget, but i don't see any use. The subwoofer itself looks promising, nice thinking about the design and these type of features.

Why would someone need 1/0 wire connector for subwoofers? How can the thermocouple benefit the user?

What is your definition of good?

Yes it would. Using a capacitor says nothing about what the person knows about audio. Using a capacitor wrong does. Four BL's should handle those amps strapped, just make sure you have the electrical to back the amps up or else they will be gone.

Well if you want to keep running it for hours adn will upgrade in the future i don't see why you would get the biggest alternator a company offers. Which is 350-400A.(although it would probably be lower for your car.) It's cheaper to buy the correct alternator from the first time instead of buying 2. Xs power is a good choice in my opinion.

You can just ask for a bigger pulley and it will have enough RPM if that actually is a problem. For 3000W i would suggest a 250amp alternator at least, because it seems normal to me that you'll have a other 2 or 4channel amp for your mids and highs. Here are a few questions for you to answer -Do you want to be able to run it for hours or only for a short demo? -Do you want to upgrade later? -How much are you willing to spend? -How many batteries do you have or will you have? (i see 2, but which ones?)

It should be infinite Zero means short circuit. Infinite means open circuit.

Check the RCA's.

I wouldn't choose those klipsch over PA speakers if you want loudness. I've had the klipsch RF82, which maybe aren't made for loudness, but im sure they are louder then the ones you listed and even cheap PA systems are louder. If you want loud you can look at cerwin vega or JBL.(although i don't know pricing .)

It does come with crossovers, it is written right there. "The 60-watts PER SIDE rating is designed around 8-hours continuous testing at 20-20,000 Hz with the entire set connected (mid, tweeter, and crossover)"