kirill007

Not all woofers can be put in a TLine and sound good and loud. Tlines have more control over the cone within it's tuned freqeuncy, but if u go below or above it, it drops faster then a ported box. Tlines don't need as much power, because they are more efficient. But the mechanical power handling drops, because if u go out of the tuned freqeuncy the excursion will be bigger. @Honda: A Tline or a quarter-wave enclosure is more efficient than a 4th order bandpass.(and certainly more efficient then a ported box) You are tottally wrong about efficieny of a Tline, they are more efficient then a lot of other enclosures.(but not as good as a Horn enclosure) Tlines aren't that flat if they aren't stuffed with polyfill. A half-wave enclosure will be even peakier then a Tline, thus be louder at a certain freqeuncy. (By the way, i have a Tline and i had a well designed ported box before and the Tline walks over a ported box without a doubt.)

RF marine subwoofer can be used in infinite baffle

The Nightshade (12") has a Fs of 43 hz, and they recommend tuning between 30-40hz. And optimal tuning from Jacob was around 34hz i think, that's not really high i think. And i don't think the nightshade 12" can get as low as the HDC3 tuned to 34hz. Only basing on Fs you can't say how a subwoofer will play. (Sorry if you don't really understand it 100%, because i'm from Belgium ) EDIT: Why did i get -1 for the previous post? If i said something that isn't correct, please say so. (i think everything i said was correct.)

I know, but M5 said they don't sound good, or can't sound good. Most 4th order boxes don't sound really good, but if they are built perfect they sound really good but i don't know if they sound much better then a perfect ported box. (i do know Tlines sound a LOT better)

I hope that box is braced a lot because it probably flexes a lot when you turn it up = a lot less dB's . Good review.

You don't need to build subwoofers for a living to understand that they recommend you tune high because the driver's Fs is ri-pucking-diculously high. I have some 7" mids here that have an Fs only 2hz higher than the Fs of the 12" HDC3. You're 7" mids are midbass drivers. (and a Fs of 43hz on a 12" inch driver isn't super high, and the 10 inch has a Fs of 41hz.) And remember the T/S specs aren't averaged between a few woofers, they took 1 woofer and took the T/S parameters without a break-in period.(Break in period lowers Fs quite a bit in a few cases.) AQ drivers are designed to work the best with higher tuned boxes which don't need as much space. Because they are tuned higher then normal they need to have a suspension that is harder and not a soft suspension. That how they get a high Fs, low moving mass and strong suspension that controls the cone if it goes below tuning. You can tune a woofer below Fs without a lot of problems, but if you don't stick with optimal enclosure volume and tuning they are going to sound like shit. Because the manufacture gives quite a lot of optoins you can build it how you like it. BTW, they have a SQ competitor: Competitor Highlight – Sound Quality Competitor LewisBrood Name: Lewis Brood, Competitor 2005 Kia Sorento lx SUBs: AQHDC312 x 2 woofers- 2-aq hdc3 ,12 inch duel 2ohm wiring by – tsunami and knukonceptz 2007 team northeast competitor of the year 2007 team northeast 3rd place woofercooker 2 2007 iasca Finals, stock 2 champ 2007 iasca Finals, 3rd place rookie- sound quality 2008 team northeast 3rd place woofercooker 1 pro 151 db is my best record so far to date with a lot more to come !!!!!! Lewis has never placed less than 3rd in over 20 sound quality competitions!

Don't think you can compare a cvx versus a HDC3. I don't know if 2 cvx woofers can handle a AQ2200, because it puts out quite more then their RMS rating. So i think the best choice would be 2 HDC3 twelves, so you have enough headroom and if u want to upgrade later, you just add a second AQ2200 or another amp. In you're case you should better take the copper coil HDC3's because the copper coil subs sound a (bit) better. (I know froim quite a few people that they handle 3k rms with the aluminium coil without problems.)

Jeez, he's got 25 cubes if he tosses the back seats, how much room do you need? M5, why not 28Hz? I understand that with an SQ oriented setup, the front stage is way more important, but why not that tuning if it is not an SQ only setup? I thought he said he didn't wanted to loose the backseats.

Should make a vented/ported box, because you don't have enough room to make a good one. Certainly if u want it tuned to 28hz, the port would be waay too big, and the sub will not sound good. Better to do a good sealed box for both 18's, if u went with 15's you maybe could fit both ported, but not 2 18's.

doublepost FTL...

x2 Or make a Tline for it, would be even better if you're only pushing 300W RMS thru it.

Connect a wire from the positive on you're amp to the remote wire. The only downside is that you're amp will be permanently on.

He only wanted to know if he would need to take a 15 or 18 inch BTL, because their is only 30$ difference. The IA DP 21" costs a lot more.

I would love to see the double 8's Tline, but i don't think you will get 145dB with them in a Tline. To what is the Tline "tuned"? But Tlines are a lot of fun, they sound loud and really clean and real tight bass.

If you're still cliping at the lowest volume, then just turn the gain down a bit till it doesn't clips anymore.

Real nice wall, but it would even look better with some real/fake leather vinyl.

Kind of weird, my sub (cerwin vega 10") is only 225W RMS and i power it with 200W RMS and at full power nothing is warm.

If the spoiler get's pushed down, it just pushes down onto the car, not flexing up and down and left to right. If you try to get a nail out it's harder to push it right out, then twist it a little bit and move it. EDIT:If the spoiler is tight enough, it won't rock, it starts rocking because the woofers kind of shake the bolts loose. I'm not definding spoilers on low speed ricer's, i'm just saying how it comes that a spoiler can get loose or break. Back ontopic.

Offtopic: Could you guys stop with the offtopic, ny the way eCrack at a racetrack you're more benificial with better handling then a bit more accelaration. And he said that he doesn't has the system in the car on the track. Who actually tested if a difference will be fealt when you remove the spoiler or keep it on, probably most or all of you guys haven't driven a civic. Ontopic: The carbon fiber spoiler will probably last longer and if it has a better mount then it would probably not break at all. You should also use some second skin damplifier on you're hatch so it flexes less, the sound barrier doesn't does alot to keep flex down. You need the weight and strenght of a good dampening material like second skin damplifier (pro).

That's why I'm interested to see why in the hell he would want 4300 watts at less than 70% efficiency. That's fucktarded. You do realize that most modern Class-D amplifiers are 85-90% efficient right? Please don't tell me they have too much THD, that's a worthless measurement. Nope just Don't like the way they sound. As Steve will tell you it took him Many years to figure out how to make them not sound "flat". There is a World of difference. I can take a new Class D that is 1200-1500 watts replace it with a Series VIII Zues ot a Autotek 7600 and it will sound better and hit harder. I can deal with the power consumption. I don't need to anything near 4300 so it wouldn't ever get run that low. Shit the heat that Class D put's out at 1 or 1/2 ohm is more than the Zues at 4ohm's. My 2 cents I have tried everything over the years I have been doing this since 91-92 and haven't stopped once so believe me I have heard and tried alot of stuff over the years. If there wasn't that much difference the demand wouldn't be so high for Old School Quality Class A/B amps. Most people can't hear the difference between 1% THD and 2% THD.... So everything below 0.5% THD is good enough, and if you set the gain low enough you get less power and less THD. Test a class D amp at 4 ohms or test a A or B class amp at 1 ohm, let's see which one will get hotter. It's normal if you lower the impedance, the efficiency drops= more heat. Don't think you could hear a difference between different sub amps, i know that (good) highs souns different with different brands of amps. But it's a really nice amp really powerfull amp certain at the time it was made.

I really hope you were joking.

The max you can, so 11cu ft. if you can make it bigger then around 12-13 would be good. Front stage=The speaker's you have and what amps you have on them.

What is you're front stage? 2600W with 2 18's and SQ? I think it would be better to have a sealed enclosure, because you would be choking those subs in a ported enclosure. The net volume of the enclosure needs to be around 12-20 cu ft, you only have 11cu ft, and you need to first distract the port volume and woofer displacement which would put you below 5 cu ft each. Just build a 10-12 cu ft sealed enclosure for the Q's.

Wow, he even got the Streetglow sticker...