kirill007

That post serves no purpose. The output is totally install dependent and vehicle dependent. So the numbers mean nothing to the OP. Well, OP said he wants a sub that gets low and loud. I was simply demonstrating that the 13Av.2 is an SQ sub that plays extremely low and clean notes but at the same time can get extremely loud. That and it doesn't break the bank. I was simply stating what was done in a smaller box with less power than the OP had, so he can obviously do even better than that, depending on the car he has. The car wasn't a SPL setup, just a daily driver. 136dB on 1200w is low for a 12 inch sub.(Ray from audio Innovations can let a 10 inch on 400watts be louder then that, also low-tuned. ) The Rl-p really is a low end monster and i would choose it over 2 L7's every day. Why?The Rl-p will be (almost) as loud, sound better, and just looks better, and not everybody has one of them. But if you ask for advice and totally ignore everything everybody suggested, then why start a thread?

Lol, first i saw that website i was like:"wtf?" But it's a epic site, comes in handy if people asks for the most powerhungry beast of all subs...

The sundwon SA 12's are 190 each in the SSA store. But 2 type r 12's should have no problem hitting over 140db.(in the right box)

They should be able to handle it. If you are responcable with the volume knob and know how to set you're gains.

If you are on Caraudio. com then ban yourself permanently. But overkill on wiring never harms anything, it only has benifits. And if you're amp has 150 amps worth of fusing then it would be recomended to fuse the wire with a 150 amp fuse. But if the amp has built in fuses then you can also use a 250amp fuse to protect you're wires. (if they short, the fuse will blow instead of you're wires sparking all over the place and creating fire hazard.)

The red probably isn't true. RE XXXv3, I don't think you understand what goes into a product as a subwoofer ,especially a total new design like the SMD sub. The SMD sub isn't just 2 motor's bolted onto each other.

Try bypassing the battery isolater. Just connect the batt directly to the alt without battery isolater.

Try playing it at the volume just below the volume when it cut's out. Then look at the voltage.(while you're almost at full tilt playing without it shutting off.)

I don't think a rotary woofer can hold more then 200-400 watts RMS.(but it does looks nice)

I don't know a lot about the crossovers on full range amps so i can't give you advice on that.

I would start with a tuning of 28 and go up with 2hz increases. (would be a lot faster to find the good tuning spot to hti the most at those freqeuncies.)

If there is no budget i would suggest 2 FI BTL 12's. (or fifteens if u can fit them) Build a nice box for them.(2 12's=4.75cu ft before displacements with 70sq inches of port area.) ( with 2 15's= 8cu ft with 120 sq inches of port area.) The 12's tuned to 34hertz and the 15's to 32 hertz.(with the 15's you should get louder and lower, but it's not always the case.) Don't know how much power you will put on them, but 2 2500 amps would be nice.(and ofcourse the electrical to support it, 300amp alt + 3 batts atleast) But you will probably don't break windows, but you will see them flexing like a ****.

.. i am amazed by your help, thank you so much to take the time to answer my questions like you did.. i need different colors to read and understand fully easy (ADD shit FTL) no problem that's why forums are for. Holy huge posts.

Actually the first sentence is wrong, it needs no box although it could refer to one in a box as well. So that makes the second wrong too, a low frequency driver or one that plays below a woofer is definitely a sub. In the US, if you had a box with 5 subwoofer cones in it and it was one box you could still call it a subwoofer. <=this is what i meant with the third and the fourth line So I do think indeed the Matterhorn is a subwoofer, it just isn't a single driver. (thx for confirming this,like i said.) By definition it is, it's wriiten like that in the dictionary(or atleast in my dictionaries.) and a lot of people say this is true. But people use subwoofer because it's easier to say.(and everyone understands what they are talking about, it's kind of a term for "not knowledgeable" people) Don't think most shops will understand it if you ask for a low-freqeuncy driver.

Normally you should see it if you push down the cone, and look thru one of those vents you can see something written on it. something like: SSD D2. Or something like that.

kind of wierd, it can hold 20 amps for 140 minutes(=2.33 hours.) 2.33hours x 20amps=46.6ah, and not 80, but yea for such a price it's a steal. I like the car and the whole build. It's a well build enclosure and looks really nice.

Sometimes (or always) the model is written on the coil. So if you look thru the side vents you should be able to see what is written on the coil. (i think it's a SSD, because the newer Q's don't have a vent.)(but i don't know for sure.)

A subwoofer by definition is a low frequency driver in a box. A low frequency driver on it's own is not a subwoofer. The matterhorn is a Subwoofer that is made out of a lot of low frequency drivers. (but most people say subwoofer, but that is a misconception.) (by the way i'm from belgium, so their could be a few spelling mistakes.)

Lol, you're right, since he asked for a subwoofer and not for a low frequency driver.

I think 6 15's would be the most port area= the loudest. And not a lot of people use 6 15's in their car.

you have more options then that. RF Wire Wizard No u don't have more (wiring) options then that if it's only 1 sub.

You CAN, but i wouldn't advise it at all. So don't do it please. Just buy a bigger amp, or connect 1 amp to both woofers.

It will probably hit more dB's, if you have the good box and upgrade the alt, then you would not have any problems with doing 145 or more db.

141.29dB at 44.39hz with TL on the dash(3.89inches from the top of the window.)...