itzme218

This is wat Mike told me before it might help you. There are a few things to consider. First, the larger the box, the greater your relative overall output should be, just as a higher tuning frequency will typically create a higher peak output. Second, the tuning frequency will play a hand in determining where your peak frequency will be, where lower tunings will allow greater low-frequency extension, and higher tunings will limit the low end. With respect to the RL-p12, I've found the ideal car-audio enclosure to be between 1.5 - 2.0 cu ft in net volume, and tuned between 28 - 34 Hz. I would suggest that you either stick towards the relatively small internal volume & higher tuning, or the relatively large internal volume and lower tuning, as this will aid in maintaining a flat frequency response. For example, if you run with 1.5 cu ft @ 34 Hz, you will have a fairly balanced response with relatively high output capability. Likewise, with 2.0 cu ft @ 28 Hz you will maintain a relatively balanced response with slightly greater low-frequency extension, perhaps at the expense of a touch of overall output capability. If, however, you went with the larger 2.0 cu ft box and tuned towards the higher 34 Hz frequency range, your response will no longer remain as flat as the relatively large box and high tuning will create a peak in your response near 35 Hz. This box will be -- overall -- the loudest of the three, but it won't sound as pleasing to the ear as certain frequencies will perform considerably louder than others.

I would keep the 2 12" RL-ps, more cone area. and it should be running great with the amp you got to power them with. What box do you have your D2 RL-p in? I have a D2 RL-p 12" and it left me craving for more, so now I might be changing my setup to two 10"s rockford T2s, I already have 1 of them and I'm sure if i get another it would out do the RL-p SPL wise. Or i can get antoerh RL-p but the thing about that is, it'll be running at .5ohms and they'll be in sealed instead of ported because i don't got the room. But either way, maybe i'm not getting the juice i suppose to be getting from the amp, because of my car's electrical conditions, All my lights dimm when I crank it up.

Unless you're runnin' with an Infinite Baffle.. I would strongly advise attaining a larger amp for the RL-p. 240 watts will surely get it movin', but if you're going to buy such a capable driver, you may as well feed it accordingly, with anywhere from 500 - 1000 watts. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> thanks, its not a sure plan, but i'm thinking about using the RL-p as a HT sub but i'll keep that in mind. I just feel like playing around with it in a different setup.

hey that looks great ! Not to highjack your thread but if i want to use my RL-p D2 for a sub setup in HT do I just need to get a plate amp from partsexpress http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.c...tnumber=300-804 and I can use the same ported box that was from the car? Power output: 170 watts RMS @ 8 ohms 240 watts RMS @ 4 ohms So I can wire it to 4ohms instead of 1 correct?

I'm itching for more SPL, I already have 1 12" rlp in a ported box. I want MORE! I was thinking of either getting another RLP or 2 Alpine Type Rs (I've heard they're good for their money). The hard thing is my 1 12" is D2 and my amp is only a JBL600.1 arrrrggggggggg!!!!!Sorry I just wanted to vent!

completion

Thanks for all the responses. Big THANKS to Mike for the explanition. I will probably end up making the 1.75@32hz

I'm trying to understand ported boxes and trying to find somthing i'll like for my 12" RL-p D2 thats powered with 600watts. What would be the difference between a ported box that is 1.75@32hz VS one that is 2.0@27hz? or one that is even at 2.0@32hz? Which one would u go for? I'm confused with box size and tuning freq. Thanks for any help you may give

sounds like he knows nothing about car audio. why don't you bring it to a pro car audio shop to build a box for you and install it.

i know how you feel, i'm having somewhat of a similar problem with my SRT4. When i crank it up lights dimm and amp goes into protection mode but thats I don't always need it that loud so its not that annoying.

sure thing... http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...wtopic=2679&hl= I went to home depot and bought wood. (they didn't make the cut to 13.5 it was a lil short) oh well i don't expect this box to be perfect, like you guys said, box design is a busines so i hope this would be somewhat of a typical 2'^3 tuned to 28hz box that's generic. But thanks so much for all the help. and now i go building.

mrray13: thanks so very much, you saved me the cost of the wood(hence right b4 i went to go buy it I checked this again) ANeonRider: i found this design from an old post of your, it was from the excel sheet you posted. Off to buy wood and build the box for some 4th of july fireworks boooooom

i'm going to just try it out, o well if it doesn't work; then i'll just pay someone for a design, either that or go visit powered4sound and buy one of their boxs if i come up with the extra money. Thanks

yeah, but I'm confused on the ports, this is all i can come up with but it does not look right....its not ported

I got a SS 12" RL-p and found a ported box design (from aneonrider) and want to try building it, but i'm having some trouble understanding it. Here is the cut sheet Cut Sheet 32.000 x 13.750 Top 32.000 x 13.750 Bottom 15.000 x 13.750 Sides 28.500 x 15.000 Front 30.500 x 15.000 Back 11.000 x 15.000 Port 1 25.000 x 15.000 Port 2 3.500 x 15.000 Port 3 I tried drawing it out but i don't understand the ports and spacing, can someone explain it to me? also what is port displacement? The box is suppose to be 2'^3 tuned to 28hz Port Displacement 0.226 Length 1 0.460 Length 2 0.095 Length 3 0.257 Wood 1.038 Total Thanks for viewing and much more thanks for helping