audiolife

I can stand on my kicks just dont design/build them weak. Mine is adaily driver as well.

Decent amps don't have any headroom. An amplifier with headroom is indicative of an amplifier with a weak and poorly engineered power supply, unless it has a special gimmick in it like the RF T15KW. If the MBQ has the quality and features the owner needs, I'd take the higher power option every day of the week x2 Really people spend too much time branding equipment rather than building something that makes actual sense.

I would do kickpanels but then again my s-10 interior is more than likely totally different than yours.

How old is it? Still have your receipt? Any parasitic loads on the battery? Any fuses blown in the charge circuit?

Actually AGMs do have liquid it is just suspended in a mat..

1 dcon on about 400 watts in a good ported box gets pretty loud while still retaining a pretty good sound. Sub was even in the trunk.

My kinetik HC1400 always starts my truck at even when I was in Toledo and it was -20F for a week and 3 of the last 4 years in north east indiana it was below 0 f for the whole month of febuary. An HC 800 is the size of a lawnmower battery (We have a HC800 to start my late fathers lazer lawnmower fits with the same mount) Fact is with that small of a battery the faster the whole battery can freeze inside where the chemicals are in the mat. The smaller the battery the faster and more complete it can happen. Tony Stewart owns a Camping World Race Truck team (MRD is the team name and John Gibson is the driver) they actually use the kinetik HC800/KR912 in their racing 650++hp vehicles.

As far as I know AGM's have acid (VRLA). Kinetics on the other hand have gel. And under heavy loads bubbles form. Gel is thick and it isn't good at "disposing" of the bubbles, further reducing the capacity of the battery. Now this shouldn't mean that gel batteries are bad. They are not ideal to use as started batteries. Kinetik is an AGM not a gel.

Check the wires, when I move things and switch them around sometimes I do not get everything as tight as I think I do. Especially if the grounds/connections are in the same place.

Agreed it is a good sub especially for a lower powered vented box application

I would do the big 3 before I did anything. IMO that should be part of amplifier installation.

If you have the electrical most people I know who have ran both say the RF puts out more power (going of of last years models bigger amps) Asking which one runs better crippled by a weaker electrical would lend my thought process to suggest running a smaller amp if you are worried about having juice.

My friend has the kicker 5 channel on the same subs and it hits pretty good for what it is....I would make sure your phase is correct on your subs or make sure your box is ok. His box is a prefab subthump box.

The smart power supplies are a constant voltage powr supply. The 45 amp would work fine but if you mix different sized batteries you should charge them individually. For practical uses I would lean more towards their inteligent charger (35 amp as you put it). A high output alt should be put in however and use the charger to keep the batteries maintained..it is a handy item to have to maintain all of your 12v car batteries.

I would go smaller and make the only thing that can be seen without removing panels is the subs. Use the lil stealth amps and frame them in neatly and pay attention to detail.

http://www.yourautotrim.com/autbodclot.html Lots of cover materials here

If you have a tight area you can use 4 or 5 smaller powercells like a kinetik hc600. You could even make a step to hide the battery because most agm cells can be laid on their side.

I would get a high output alt of at least 200 amps and a larger battery in back. A group 27 (Kinetik HC2000, Odyssey pc1750)or a group 31 (Odyssey pc2150, Kinetik HC2400, Optima D31).

To run 16v your alt would need an adjustable regulator and or need step up modules, step down modules or multiple kinetik 16v cells to help run the 12v for the car. 0 ga in your big 3 would at least help in simplifying the wire job. Unless you are looking to gain every tenth of a db you can I would stay at 12v. For the cost difference you could simply just move up in amplifier power to get the same result as the 16v and save money.

I heard about a marine dual bank battery charger that I was gonna get from a dude at a local audio shop, would those charge both batteries equally if not then I wont waste the money on getting one. Thanks Depends what it is designed for. If it is not designed for agm batteries and you are charging agm batteries I wouldn't do it.

a 12v battery has 6 2 volt cells, where a 16v battery has 8 2 volt cells. I do not have an issue with my auto charger at all always charges my kinetik to 14.8 volts and trips into 2 amp charge. If you are charging up more than one battery it would be a good idea to charge them up individually so they are BALANCED before you try charging them both up together where 1 might be setting more charged than the other when new or adding a newer cell in a system with an older. If the batteries are different as in brand and or size I would charge them seprately because they will not fully charged together, and you would run risk of over charging the smaller or weaker battery.

A smaller reserve just equals a dead battery quicker. 30% depth of discharge happens a lot more quickly to a 35 ah battery than a 120 ah battery. I have had nothing but good luck with my kinetik 1400, this February it will be 5 years old and it has driven systems from 500 watts to 1700 watts. I tend to stay within kinetik's recommendations and even a little bit above no issues. I have tested other batteries within their recommendations and experienced low voltage and dimming.

If it shorted inside it would have melted inside (the case would get deformed) put something across both posts and you would get an arc and melted posts. Also a loose cable would be highly resistive and also arc. Only times I have seen lead actually melt was from battery terminals actually touching the hood and a from tools like wrenches/screw drivers and ratchets laying acrocc touching both terminals.In fact I have seen it melt brass.

Short happens to be where there is heat, looks like something shorted across the teminals or the rings were loose to me.

Alt has not arrived yet