audiolife

Been running mine at 14.6-14.85 v for 5 + years

I would do 2 hc1800 if you choose to go kinetik.

Couple guys in my home town run a hc1800+an hc1200 in back for 1860 watts and another runs a KR5112 up front and a KR1212 in back for 1900 watts, the first is on a 105 amp stock alt and the later ran the fall with a stock 110 amp alt but has a new 240 amp alt to put on in the spring.

Looks like it would work out pretty good. I put my 1400 under the hood in Feb 2005 and it still works out fine.

• Mixing Different Battery Technologies Kinetik Power Cells are compatible with most standard 12 volt charging systems and battery technologies. We do however advise using Kinetik Power Cells exclusively throughout the vehicle for maximum voltage, performance and longevity of aftermarket electronics as well as the Power cells. This will minimize self discharging of the power storage devices in the vehicle while not in use also. Kinetik Power Cells have a very low self discharge rate much lower than that of a standard ‘wet cell’ car battery. When different types of power storage devices (batteries or Power Cells) are used in parallel in an electrical system, current will have a tendency to flow between storage devices unnecessarily resulting in heat build up and loss of power where it is needed most. When Kinetik Power Cells are used throughout the install, current will flow directly from the Power Cells to the load in a balanced manner minimizing ‘fighting’ between unlike storage devices. Kinetik High Current Power Cells Thank you. I remember reading that, just wanted someone's personal ' war story' about the issue. guess ill scrap the cheap battery and run only the kinetik and see how it works out. dont want to damage anything.. im trying to do this right, so keeping with the spirit ill stay with one type of battery. sure it would work if i didnt.. but doing this install half ass isnt what im going for. if not ill just buckle down and buy another kinetik (even though ive been hearing bad about them lately).. thanks again It is better to go matched size as well as brand. The farther away you get in specs of the batteries the harsher the end result can be. My old SQ comp car I sold in 1999 or 2000 ended up getting the back seats taken out with a wall of 8 12's put in. The system consisted of 12 st and later mc 300 memphis amplifiers. It had 1 amp bridged to each sub and 3 more bridged to each 8" memphis sync (1 was a center channel) with the last amp ran in stereo to another pair of 8"syncs behind the front seats.1 hcpower 2000 (that was before they changed their name to kinetik) under the hood and 3 more in back lasted at least 8 years and it was a comp/show car for the shop for 5+ years all off one Ohio gen 190 amp alt.

• Mixing Different Battery Technologies Kinetik Power Cells are compatible with most standard 12 volt charging systems and battery technologies. We do however advise using Kinetik Power Cells exclusively throughout the vehicle for maximum voltage, performance and longevity of aftermarket electronics as well as the Power cells. This will minimize self discharging of the power storage devices in the vehicle while not in use also. Kinetik Power Cells have a very low self discharge rate much lower than that of a standard ‘wet cell’ car battery. When different types of power storage devices (batteries or Power Cells) are used in parallel in an electrical system, current will have a tendency to flow between storage devices unnecessarily resulting in heat build up and loss of power where it is needed most. When Kinetik Power Cells are used throughout the install, current will flow directly from the Power Cells to the load in a balanced manner minimizing ‘fighting’ between unlike storage devices. Kinetik High Current Power Cells

I always look at it from the standpoint its not where the electrical starts from it is where it ends up being for what I want it to do when I want to do it. I listen to my stereo longer than a few seconds even when I listen to it turned up usually it is at least the length of a whole song and maybe most of a cd. Totally different than listening to a test tone, totally different than constant load test that runs down to 7.2v because the output to music will have many peaks and valleys instead of a straight load. Some people like pressing their luck dropping down to 9.5v on a burp to get every last db on a limited by rule battery system. Might be good IF you have factory support and they are at your contest with spares but would suck otherwise. When shows were bigger you could always count on a few amplifiers emitting the magic smoke. Since you are already beyond a "magic" limit of batteries and you already know your system can draw more than your alt having reserve is a good thing. Most of the choices you listed will work thing is if you plan on parking it for demos.

http://www.kinetikracing.com/downloads/kinetik_performance_racing_series_flyer_web.pdf Some high horsepower race cars use the Kinetik KR912 in their Camping World race trucks and such which is the same as the HC800 and it starts up a 700-800 hp engines. The thing is if you have a smaller capacity battery and it gets taxed doing odds and ends with accessories on daily driver street cars, those loads are draining it more deeply than it would larger batteries. The 2 things that wear a battery out are cycles and more importantly the depth of those cycles.

How much can you get Odyssey pc1750's for? stinger 1700 vs powermaster 2700 Most Prefered Street A battery 650cu in? Also going off of specs that runs the battery down well past 9v doesnt really say too much about what it can do for audio especially since they are at an unusable/dangerous for amplifier voltage usually in a second or less. Also with what is listed the deka set up should do pretty well parked and handle burps well.

My alt stays between 14.7 and 14.9 (has for 5 years) and I am still on the same 1400.

I use Unshielded rcas.....

Sorry about that, but we don't have any links to that site here what so ever. I didnt know about that until after, all I was doing was making a point is all

hmm wont let me put up the links, oh well. ****/board/index.php?showtopic=59171&st=0&p=822078entry822078

Here is the broken link ****/board/index.php?showtopic=59171&st=0&start=0 Yes you are correct, abuse can damage batteries. You can have outright damage in smaller set ups from drawing too much or if you bottle neck large banks of batteries. (hooking up too many or too large of draws on one connection). Heck I guess you can ask who is in business if a company is no longer featured on a battery page on popular car audio sites or on internet forums during meeting/show times at CES.

Because their batteries tend to explode? Powermaster 4 lyfe False. Not false. You just haven't seen the thread What causes an exploded battery? - Realm of Excursion Maybe asking where or how I got the information or where I'd seen it would have been wise before just using a blanket and blind "huurrr FALSE". So by going off of your thought process if I post threads of other batteries that swell and fail means they all swell and fail? Deka batteries battery bulge...why? - The Forum Optima battery overheating? 2000 Mustang GT - Ford Mustang Forums

bump

Actually Kinetik is shipping and just had a really BIG CES.

I don't need an amp that puts out the same power across different ohms but, I might want to run additional subs in the future and that could change ohms. Mostly I like the voltage feature, mostly. I'm not dead set on the JL but, I sure like those two features. The new constant power amplifiers RF is making look pretty good on paper have not messed with them yet however. They change power though depending on impedence just not as much.

For a really good set up I would change out the stock battery with the brand of battery you are putting in back, preferably the same size.(front and back). Reason you want the same size type batteries is to make the pair act as 1 battery which is hard to do if they have different resistances/charge rates. Good brands to look at are Odyssey, Kinetik and if you are on a budget deka intimidators.AGM batteries can be deep cycle, some are not though and a prime example of one that is not is an optima red top.

The shurikens all weigh different than kinetik, considering they have different cases and cases do not weigh several lbs so I would not call them the same. If I had to choose between the two I would go kinetik, I know the product, I know the people who run it and I know they know their product.

Agreed, if a TL tells you you have gained a tenth of a db or even several tenths, you would need the TL to tell you, your ears at normal volume couldn't distinguish that even at low volume never the less at 140+ db.

I would suggest battery wise to go with agm batteries like kinetik, optima yellow/blue, deka intimidator odyssey pc, etc ect..they are easier to recharge than normal batteries and require less maintenance, are sealed and are deep cycle.

Deadening is alot of trial and error. When people go over their vehicles with 3 layers of mat or a mat and spray that is a lot of over kill IMO. Closed cell foam and other coverings help absorb what might be reflected. This can really help or hurt the way your system sounds in a way an eq and time alignment cant. This is why when you look at some SQ comp cars they have covers on their dash and additional covering on the dash under panels. If I were to start a new car I would use butyl tape to get out panel on panel and metal on metal rattles. When you use mat or sprays generally speaking you are going to get the vast majority of the usefullness out of it when you have a large panel 50% covered. (some will say more some will say less).

they are a convertable component set Memphis Sync . Tweeter is right in the center

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=26505775&d=1217970705 http://www.caraudio.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=26505774&d=1217970692 You can even put an extra ring around the mounting baffle to make it a flush mount to negate even more "foot" damage.