audiolife

Cranking hours? I thought that a CA test was a 30 second test that ran a battery down to 7.2 volts with the majority of the time the battery drops lower than 10v in under 1 second. Hell even the pulse tests are 5 second tests that are ran down to 7.2 v or 6v. Those voltages are unusable.

Just because a battery has a warranty does not at all mean that it is warrantied just because the battery no longer works. If you over discharge it, overcharge it, leave it undercharged and or allow it to sulphate you would not be covered under a warranty as those are not manufacturer defects and are generally specified under warranty NOT to be covered. You might think it is no big deal but those situations are the reasons why about 85 to 95% of why batteries fail. About the only situation where this might not hold true is with long term wet flooded cell warranties where you pay 2x as much as the battery used to cost just so you can end up with a "pro rated" warranty down the road where you basically pay a sale price to replace your old "X" many years down the road..

actually the odyssey pc2150 is 753.87 don't measure post height it is within the 800 rule.

You can give the recondition mode a shot. When lead acid batteries are left at a low charge state the chemicals break down and sulfur forms on the lead and eventually crystallizes. When this happens the crystals can actually crack the lead plates because they grow in the pores of the lead or stop the chemical reaction of recharging. That is why I always suggest using an intelligent charger for batteries to stop batteries from sulfating. An alternator will bulk charge a battery to 80-90% but eventually the uncharged portion can become sulfated and that 80 to 90% becomes the new 100% unless fully charged a few times with no plate damage. Most reconditioning/desulfation modes are a higher voltage very low current or pulses used to try to break up/blow off the sulfur from the battery plates. I have seen it work and not work before but sulfation is what actually kills lead acid batteries before their time, just depends on how bad it gets or is allowed to get. The faster you can recharge a battery from a low state of charge the better. I have seen and read about some VERY high dollar aviation batteries go down the tubes by improper care (forgetting to plug in to a maintainer for a couple of weeks to a month).

the part about XS and Kinetik? Fair enough. I was just an opinion. The problem with Kinetik's web calculator is that they don't account at all for the efficiency of the amplifier(s) in question when figuring battery life based on wattage. It may not sound like a big deal, but when amp efficiency can range from 50%-85%+ and we're dealing with well into the 4 digit range for wattage, and well into triple digits for current draw, it can matter. Anyway, for what it's worth I'm using Kinetik 2400s now, myself. By no means are they "bad." I just prefer the XS products, given the choice. Thats kind of a double edged sword as class a/b's efficiency generally goes up with volume/power. 50% eff at 1/3 power and being 85%+ at 1/3 power is different when you are using more than 1/3 power. Many class a/bs eff jumps up when using more than 1/3 to the high 60 to mid 70's and many class d's efficiency's fall when driving 1 ohm loads and under at or near full power.

You can mix sizes of the kinetik, the reason why it is suggested to use the same size is just for balance, which usually give you a longer lifespan. I know Impious seen my old car when he bought some speakers 2 or 3 years ago, that car had 2nd gen hc2000's put in it in 2000 or 2001 that were in it working in 2008 (6500 watts all class A/B on a 190 alt) On another note I spent part of yesterday and today trying to desulfate a couple of yellow batteries for a friend but they failed to after 4 hours, have a couple more to do this weekend but they are different.

The pertective cases can be bought seperately. They fit both the audio line and racing.

http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/2127/imag0108.mp4 He just put in the new engine and got it fired up.

Equipment- 2 12" RE SE D4, 1 Audiopipe AP1800, 1 set of MB Quart Ref 6.5" components, DEI xtreme 6002, 1 Kinetik HC1400 and HC1200 , PS2, 200-250 amp alt. Here is the car Inside the car bolted in with trim panel Start of the kick panels

What is the battery voltage after you have left the car set a few days? You can be experiencing a accumulation of a parasitic drain.

There are batteries 13 lbs lighter than the 1700 with 1 less aH on your list. I would monitor the resting voltage of the batteries closely for the first few weeks, also if you live where it gets snow and you wont be driving the car for a few weeks I would disconnect the batteries from the car and put them on a maintainer/charger inside until you are ready to roll again no matter what you choose.

I look at it like this the car is going to need 20-40 amps of the 250 to run the car so you are basically running 210 amps for a 3800 watt system. There is not a battery made that can charge as fast as it discharges so if and when you are pulling more from the alternator than it puts out you can be drawing 100+ amps from your batteries at any given time (more with the engine off). To a lower capacity battery those 100+ amps mean more to its state of charge than it does to the larger capacity batteries. Smaller capacity might recharge from 50% DOD faster than a larger capacity battery discharged to 50% DOD but it is going to take longer to get to 50% DOD on the larger battery so you would be cycling the smaller batteries more which would effect lifespan. Also you want to make sure the batteries do not get overcharged (seen it with every battery listed) and you want to make sure they never reach the state of being undercharged for a long period while . Last I checked no battery company warranties for those conditions. I would get a charger that does AGM charging like a ctek us7002 or hard wire install a KIPS 60 or KIPS 80 that will charge up your rear batteries more fully than what your alt would. Doing so and monitoring the the voltage will help you in finding a potiential issue before it becomes a problem and will keep your batteries lasting longer and perform better in the long run.

Over 5 year old Kinetik HC 1400 under the hood Voltage at battery from the alternator after 10+ minutes after start up while getting ready to check transmission fluid. It has been this way since I installed it over 5 years ago and over 50k miles. "New" Kinetiks are made the same way mine was as well there was no magic change over or lower quality parts. 2 most common ways to kill a battery are undercharging and continued use as the battery is continued to be left undercharged. Can be a very slow process. The second way is to overcharge a battery which becomes rather obvious when you start hearing valves pop, smell rotten eggs and then end up with a swollen battery. Every battery is susceptible to these factors and many 12 v AGM batteries come with a little note that says * do not charge at over 14.4 volts* . It is a very common and is not a "bad thing" especially if you are concerned with lifespan.

the new cd-1's are pretty loud and are not plastic. I wish I would have kept a set of horns. I have had cd1-E, cd-2 , cd-3 ultras, and some funky tads on a usd horn body. use a horn right in this application you can just add mid bass (mid basses) and 1 or 2 pair of horn loaded super tweets crossed over at about 15k.

BRZ are different than a bxi

They had a vehicle (Craig Butler) at sbn that broke 180's in MECA, Db Drag and IASCA. SBN 2010: Congrats Craig Butler & Team 182.6!!! As far as their amps go all I can say is they make them small and make some powerful.

Important Kinetik Battery info for those with problems - SSA Car Audio Forum - Page 5 Funny thing 14.4v is what almost every manufacturer will recommend with the paperwork with their 12v agm battery . I have had my kinetik for 5+ years with voltage above 14.4v but below 15v.

I would get an alt of at least 160 solid amps 200+ would be better and a battery front and back. The battery in back will keep your amplifier happy. Parked at idle, engine off, driving slow or driving down the highway your system will work better given everything is hooked up and working properly. In the not so distant past there were people running considerably less power be it a couple rf punch 200's and 500's, or a couple of ppi 2150's or even a kicker ss500 with another amp for components people still blew up amps, alts and speakers because they didn't have an upgraded electrical. Granted efficiency is better now but the power went up quite a bit more.

Was the battery ran down? How close is it to the engine? How good of shape is the voltage regulator? What is it hooked up too? Stock alt can cook many things including the whole car and batteries.

I will also add I actually worked at Kinetik between 2005-2006 and with thousands upon thousands of Kinetiks sold I rarely received any failures back and I would be pretty sure quite a few were hooked up to high output alternators. I know a few who have Ohio Gen alts hooked up to 6+ year old kinetiks.

Totally not true, in fact they are bigger now than they even were last year. If you look you will indeed see shops and online stores have them in stock and it is new stock. When I worked at Kinetik back in 2005-2006 people had high output alts back then as well and I rarely seen returns. Thousands of Kinetiks were sold when I was there and less than 1 pallet came back with issues. To put the total ammount into context I took all the cells in to the local battery drop off to be recycled and they all fit in the bed of my very standard 4 banger s10 and less than 1/3 of the those batteries were kinetiks, many were out of the pallet lifts and other brand batteries that were tested (this is just one load mind you). Many of the returns were flat out not installed correctly as they would take and hold a charge (load tested as well) and were then used in electric pallet lifts. Most of the returns where the cell was bad sent to me ended up being hc600's and hc800's hooked up into systems that had SEVERAL thousands of watts and the 600-800 were the only battery in back which was well above and beyond Kinetiks recommendations + what was explained in training. I also built some mod banks when I was there and many of those won at various spl world finals in DB Drag, USACI and I do believe MECA. I would run a dual battery system. I would make that system a matched set of batteries (not just same brand). Sure wire will cause indifferences between the front and back battery but why would making the difference gap wider with different batteries be an improvement? When I competed from 1990-1998 I only had 1 battery fail on me at a show and that was at 1997 IASCA world finals and that is the only show I didn't trophy or at least win a top 3 prize at a non sanctioned events. That battery was a red top suggested to me by a local battery shop. Back then in IASCA SQ you more times than not had above trophy level turn out. At SBN I had 19+ cars in my class and at Midwest Nationals I also had 20+ cars in my class. IIRC the smallest turn out my class had at an IASCA show I attended inbetween 1996 to 1998 was 8 (single point event).Top 5 got points/trophies.