audiolife

For the price I give these 5 stars and for an audiophile tweeter I would give them at least 4 stars. Doing mild tuning still and these just get better and better with mild boosts and cuts (.2 db here and there) crossed over at 3750 Hz in kick panels powered off 2 channels of a Zapco Z-150.6. Brings up 20k and does not fluster and is EXTREMELY tunable. I have had SEVERAL other tweeters from Hertz, CDT, Image Dynamics and so far these are the best.

How big of a sealed box for the 15? How well would it hold up to 800 watts in a SQ set up?

biggest thing to remember with 2 batteries is ground issues. both batteries need same ground potential otherwise the weak ground will not charge correctly and eventually lag behind.

If your alternator is putting out too much to your battery your battery needs to be charged via a charger and not an alternator. The battery's load dictates the alternators output to it and alternators really do not do very well recharging if the battery is much more than 20% discharged,

If you are dropping to 10-11 volts I would get a more powerful alternator or make plans on charging up every day with an outboard charger. If you don't you will go through batteries and alternators.

If the shop has a pulse tester they can not check a Kinetik KHC series battery properly. Kinetik is also coming out with new batteries . https://www.facebook.com/pages/Kinetik-Audio/197138513646684

These batteries are lead acid, its chemical. When a battery discharges it changes and putting the correct electrical power back to it converts it back. Leave a battery sit low for too long the discharged portion changes to a substance that doesn't convert very well back too a recharged state in fact it hinders it. Over discharge a battery and leave it sit is double bad because you are leaving most of the battery in a bad state with very little left inside in which to start pulling the battery back together from while charging. Depending on the charger, the code can simply mean the battery will not charge within the time frame the safety features were designed for. Let a battery run low hoping the alternator can charge it is also bad because alternators tend to over charge low under charged batteries (even stock batteries with no audio systems). This is bad for both the alternator and battery.

I would put a khc1400 up front and a khc 2000 in back and go with a 200 amp or more alternator. If the alternator cant keep up the battery will discharge and it can not maintain itself. When a battery gets left low for too long it becomes harder to recharge and an alternator IS NOT a battery charger.

Looks like the batteries might be sulfated and or overly drained. If they stayed that way too long they could be ruined. I use a powersupply set to 13.8 to 14.2 volts when batteries are that low and many times won't start taking a charge for several hours then I switch it over to a CTEK charger after they start taking a charge. You must watch for heat and do not let them go off a powersupply unless you are there to check as a badly sulfated battery can over heat easily and also damage the powersupply. If it gets hot stop the charging. If you hear venting stop the charging.

Don't allow a lead acid 12v battery to rest under 12.6 volts because when a battery discharges it sulfates and if you wait too long the sulfation will become more and more of an insulator to the point the battery becomes more difficult to recharge. Try dumping too much power into a sulfated battery you are asking to cook a few things and get a bad recharge on top of it. If your battery is sulfated you can bring them back as long as the charger DOES NOT try to do a total high voltage equalization charge which is hard on most sealed batteries. Pulse chargers that are highly regulated to 14.4 to 14.7 volts can work well to bring back batteries in this condition as long as the sulfation has not crystalized.

Yes basically the point was that CCA ratings have nothing to do with the battery he was talking about in the application he was using it for. And he was reading 12.56 volts at rest after it had sat for a while so no issues there either. If you leave the battery sit it will become stagnant and need "woke up" also letting it sit at 12.56 volts isn't doing it any favors. I have cells I charged in November that are resting in the 12.75 range. I know it doesn't seem like a big difference .2 volts but when a cell discharges it sulfates and can indeed weaken the battery. There is only 1 time in a batteries life that it is at 100% and that is right after it is made. Only other times the battery is not discharging is when its on float or getting a charge. Batteries will self discharge and a small load left on them can greatly speed up the discharge process. When you buy a battery it is a perishable good and keeping it charged up to as close to a full charge as much as possible without over charging it is the key.

A CA or a CCA test is a 30 second test where the voltage drop is allowed down to 7.2 volts not 10.2 volts. To a lead acid battery leaving it in an undercharged state is bad. Doesn't have to be under heavy stress to go bad, you can kill a battery permanently by leaving it installed in a stored car with no charger or by simply not paying attention to the state of charge on the battery. Leave it low in hot conditions the discharged portion of the battery will gradually start becoming an insulator more quickly to the point it becomes a permanent insulator. That is called sulfation and is how the vast majority of batteries die (new battery or old). Problem is unlike a lap top or a cell phone, a car usually has no indication system other than "hey my lights are dimming alot worse or my car won't start". By then it can be too late if left ignored. State of charge is measured with the car off and no charger. It takes at least 3 hours for the surface charge from an alternator or charger to leave the battery/batteries and that is when it should be measured. Also another way a secondary battery dies is when the back battery has a bad ground. A battery with a bad ground will not charge properly. One last thing, don't allow an alternator to recharge a dead battery or a battery that has been deeply discharged. An alternator is more or less a bulk maintainer and can get damaged due to heat trying to charge up a dead battery that is not accepting much if any of a charge. If you want a good inexpensive way to tell the condition of your battery a http://smartercharger.com/accessories/#comfort-connect-indicator-eyelet is a good way to tell. The way I use mine is in the morning I just pop the hood before I ever start my vehicle and look at the lights. When used with a Ctek charger you do not need alligator clips as the charge end will plug into the charge indicator. They also have a panel you can mount inside the vehicle, just check the light before you start the car. Green all is good, yellow lets you know you either need to do some serious driving or put it on a charger and red means put it on a charger/may be too late. Measuring while your car is on is totally different than what I am talking about. This is measuring what is in the tank before you ever turn on the system or car. Some will argue that a "bad battery" can have a high voltage, which is true BUT it would get to that condition much sooner by allowing it to get into the conditions that allow it to go bad to begin with.

Looks pretty good except if you leave it plugged in it doesn't say anything about changing up the float charge after a set ammount of time. Its better to have something that will change up the float every 24 hours. Stops the cells from getting stratisification.

Have had my kinetik for a long time.

If the vehicle is sitting and you know it is not going anywhere for quite sometime disconnect the batteries totally from the vehicle/audio system. If the batteries are resting under 12.7 volts I would charge them fully before letting them set. As for the charger the charger needs to be regulated for AGM batteries where it does not go above 14.7 volts and should be intelligent (AKA computer controlled). If the charger you have has a timer on it it more than likely can not fully charge a sealed agm battery and you run the risk of the voltage ramping up. With the intelligent chargers they are multi stage and can charge an agm battery 5 to 7% better at least. A very good charger would be a ctek mus-7002 which sell for about $130 which if it sounds steep is less expensive than a lot of other regulated intelligent chargers that do not recondition or de-sulfate a weak battery.

I would contact Chris at Missing Link Audio. Some of those GMs they have a bypass for that may help it.

ouchies in those lil cars?

that is very sweet what is all in it?

If you have perfect hearing you can tell a 1 db difference in sound at a normal level 80-100 range, when you over load the senses you can throw that out the window. If it were that easy to tell why would we need meters?

I'm not sure sure about that a lower gain setting provides more headroom. Simply because the gain knob is just for level matching. But if you can provide a link to the article I'll happily read it I thought it lowered the noise floor....

Unless you are playing test tones I doubt you would peak out an electrical system with music that gave 50-60 amps for the car/truck/suv and 70 amps per 1000 watts with a good healthy battery set up.

top 3 are from my old IASCA firebird Front stage covered and uncovered IDQ 8 DVC and CD3 Ultra comp EQT Last is the back of my Tempo from 1995, Audio Art HC power, EQTs and some gold plated Sound Stream SPL160s