CBFryman

4our Sx iz teh waNgtaztic!! RE pwnz joo foo!!!!!!!111!!!!!!oneoneoneoneoneoneoneoneoneoneoneoneoneoneoneoneoneone1! dun ned know ubza woofa... too much bass

Crazy glue? well w/e it is it has to be able to be removed form platic if need be. which is why superglue and epoxy are out of the quesion. if i knew these would be permanent epoxy all da way. well here are some more pics. i did a specly shot on the driver side one instead of wet sanding and it made the few imperfectins nearly invisible and got rid of a good part of the gloss a few shots of the interior comparo what sucks about the 6.5's mounting location. a portion of the speaker is blocked when the door is closed and a "mounted" pic the passenger side is on its 2nd coat of paint. 2 more coats and a speckle and its good to go.

shhh, i made a D in english... moo xtra holey primered so these pics are sort of ghey but w/e so not the option of how to mount them. im thinking double sided stickey tape. lol. actually im thinking rubber cement because it can be cleaned off of the plastic if i ever remove these. but im not sure how well it will hold.

started on the passenger side. i actually red the mudd to catalyst reccomendations this time. 1" line for a golfball sized scoop of mud. before i did 2" to about 1 1/2 golfball sized scoops. this time i did 1" for 1 1/2 goldball scoops. well anyway here are some pics as is. waiting for the mudd to cure so i can get to sanding, agian. found some more 100 grit. 3 sheets so hopefully i wont run out. it still cured pretty quickly, maybe 5min of working time, but beter than the 2 or so i had last go round here is a pic of the can, just the cheapest walmart had. i was in there with my mom and still hadnt spend the money on a gift card so i was on a $20 budget for paint/primer, sand paper, and body filler, oh and a pepsi and skittles. it was like $8 for this and primer was like $2 and paint was $3 and sand paper was like $4. pepsi $1 and skittles $0.75. i ended up having to give like a quarter to pay tax. while im on the issue of money here is a list of what you will need and its cost. -Pack of Small hobby Paint prushes: $3 -Pack of Bondo fiberglass matt: $6 -2qt of Bondo every day Polyester Resin: $9 -Pack of Disposeable Gloves: $1 (dolar store pwns joo) -Pack of Sand paper (assorted grits): $4 -Acetone: (free for me) like $5 maybe -Paper Towels: $1 (dolar sto' pwnz joo agian) -Rubbing Alcohol: (i used methanol, you isopropyl is will work, really any basic alcohol, if you need an organic chemistry lesson ask) $1 -Can of Primer: $2 -Can of Paint: $3 -Cheap Body filler: $8 -1 yd fleece: steal some from your mom or $2 Total: $45. and if you do it in a closed garadge you get high too. drugs and alcohol can cost that much. but seriously, if you are going to work in a colsed place like a car trunk or closed garage because it is cold or raining, use a resporator. not a duct mask, a resporator. some of the chemicals in polyester resin are carsenogenic (sp?) for thoes that dont know what that is or cant understand my horrible spelling...they cause cancer. they also kill brain cells. its just like huffing paint if you dont. well anyway, mud is probably cured now, peace. ps you will have a lot of polyester resin left over and a good part of your body filler left over and other things can be scavenged from most people houses. so its a $45 maximum. and if you have a "profestional" do it, it will cost you like $150+

lol, oh and i lie 18's because everyone thinks they sound like ass and when asked how many they have heard they reply "none" and everyonce and a while "none" oh and i like big speakers. espeically ones that move nearly2" ive seen an xxx18 play in person. its kinda cool to watch something that large move so much. most 18's have like 10mm Xmax if that... the SX is sapposed to be louder by like 1dB for SPL but an XXX is sapposed to be louder for daily. the avalanche is sapposed to offer near XXX perfomance for daily plus have a crapload more low end because of the ultra low Fs. and it requires less power. I like RE but i may be giving chad a call sometime this summer. oh and i already have a sort of center concil. actualy my seats are 60/40 split with a fold down arm rest. and 18's dont fit in center concils. lol. Ill be building a fiberglass tool box this summer as well. not real complicated but harder than tweeter pods.

i must be missing something. i see port plugs suggested but not an entire port swap. I dont know what you all call port plugs but i call a port plug having 2 sperate ports and you plug which ever one isnt going to be used. I sort of like the looks of what i am talking about. MDF painted black or even what i saw at one car show for a truck, it was made from 1/4" cold rolled steel painted a gloss black and the lip where the bolts where was chrome dimond plate and the heads of the bolts where painted black. it looked very clean and very "rugged" to match the truck which was an extended cab silverado (forget the year, early 90's though) lifted.

or you could do interchangebale ports. just a few bolts, take the daily port out, SPL port in, a few bolts and you are done. this will evenallow you to make 2 SPL ports, one as a trial run, shave it off 1/2 and inch at a time doing bups and record what you get, what ever was the loudest length (the loudest tunning) you can trim your second port to that and you will have an optimal SPL tuning and a good daily tuning... id build it for you but i live in florida...lol

ahh, im up too early, long party last night ...prom afterparties... i did work up at one of the local audio shop but i could only sneek in and do instalation help...i was a clean up boy. You have to have some sort of gay certification even to just wire woofers and you have to be 18 to even touch the tools. gay insurance company rules anyways, im fixing to go sleep untill 1:00 and then i will get to work on the passenger side pod and maybe even get them installed today. more pics are a guarontee though. ps i love smilies

ok?

lol, n/m...i can never pu 2+2 togather

how do they compare as far as sound deadening and rattle reducing properties?

Thanks. i just wanted a flat black. that is all that walmart had, well that wasnt a "gloss" paint but was still automotive. its called "universal black" and its by Duplicolor. it matches my steering wheel, OEM head unit, OEM guage faces, A/C controlls, i may paint my sub's enclsore that color when ever i get it. all black with plexi window to show off the basket, some LED's but im nor sure what color. w/e. i also have CF acenting in my truck because it is troy lee edition.

2000 Mazda B3000 TL Extended Cab 4 door Edit: So any ideas on the wub stage??

oh and for thoes wondering. here are some pics of the 6.5's...RE hase a nipple fetish.

well, after i get my sub stage i will probably need some dampening. i really do need it now, all i have done is sealed my doors with "Great Stuff" for my componets. well sealed them from the outside, all that keeps the back waves form the interior is the spash guard (which isnt needed now that i have my doors sealed fomr the outside) and my door panel. but they still sound pretty good. someone told me Duplicolor's Truck bed ruberized paint works decent for adding mass to lower Fs of panels. is this true? im looking for a cheap alternative to most good mats/liquids. SS is probably top of the line from what i heave read but to do my intire truck interior would coast hundreds. hundreds a teen just doesnt have.

that is the draw pack of paint, especially black. every little imperfection will show. im hoping to work that over. it is a dent in the paint, not the glass. so some wet sanding should take it out.

patience, the paint is still drying and i donw ant to get a wrinkle. but here is a look at what they will look like once installed. i ended up getting a little wrinke anyway. oh well. some wet sanding and another coat will take care of it. it will give me something to do while i am waiting for htings to cure on the passenger side pod, which still has a ways to go. and i wont get to work on it next weekend. maybe this up coming firday.

the finsih is looking pretty sweet. actually a little too glossy for me likes, almost. i may wet sand with some 440 to pring th gloss down some. there is a little spot up around the top that wasnt getting enough paint, so its finish looks s little flat/grey...but i fixed that iwth another coat of paint, pretty much. with the flush mount tweeter ring installed, the finished doenst look as glossy because there was a 2nd light source bedites the camera flash.

shhh, it was special made...lol i ment 18, sorry. there is an L7 15 though, right? well either way it is either an SX18, or Avalanche 18 at the moment. XXX18 is too much for my parents to cope with. F'in parents. so while on the subject. Which do you guys think would be louder? say 1000w 6.5cuft 7cuft if i squeaz or make a molded glass enclsore instead of all MDF. tuned around 28-29Hz with 80-100sqin of port area. or reccomend another woofer. SS have any 18's? im not extremely familure with their line up. multiple subs is out of the question. beleive it or not 2 15's require more air space than 1 18, and 2 12's wont get as loud and 3 will cost more. i was thinking 2 atlas 15's...but i dont have enough space.

Thanks for the complements. Im done with primer on the drivers side pod, now on to paint. ill have pics ASAP...now i just need to mud the pasenger side pod.

not bad for a ford... so what car is that anyway?

well if it was for anything but tweeters the molds would have been trashed the first time and redone. also i would have done another layre of mud with some acetone mixed in to make it more milky to fill in the pin holes. Aiming would have been differnet as well. So are thoes pods going to be your first fiberglass project? if so well all i can say is, wear gloves and if working in a enclosed space use a resporator. and work when it is warm outside so you can mix the glass a little less hot and give you some more working time. oh and TAKE YOUR TIME. dont be frustrated. and whne laying the mat for the mold tear/fray the edges so it will be easier to form or use cloth instead of mat. but if using cloth do at least 3 layres of 4-6oz before poping them off and make sure the paterns meat at a 45 degree angle for maximum strength. Read all the tutorials you can and tape off anything that resin may get on...because if it can, espeically when you are first learning to glass, it will. Good luck and post some pics if you can.

^^lmao... man he dont drive a Neon, he drive an SRT-4 dawg sweet car though...it would shure whip my trucks ass all over the pavement.

i spy with ym little eye Big light up guages with large chit point light and lots of guages. however i do not recognize the interior as a honda civic. nor do i know the performance modificaitons done to your vehicle... but nice work on the stealthy install...it'll keep theives away but your guage wont keep ricers away.

well, from an example i read somewhere else, which, i belelvie, was written by the DW crew, and also makes sence to me: Lets say we have a mystery box. internal box area is 3,000sqcm. our sub, sub X, is 500sqcm. if the entire box flexes 1cm (extreme) it is wasteing the energy of the sub moving 6cm... but if a box is flexing 1cm you have problems. i tend to agree with yall that for dailly application if using 3/4MDF and if you dont have any large panels, bracing and doble baffleing isnt needed unless you have a heavy sub or are really putting the power to it. but just to be safe i would say minot bracing would be a good idea, especially if you have a large panel. and if your sub is 40lbs+ double baffle it just to be safe.