CBFryman

RE- Good chit, im the dedicated RE whore, and now they are coming out with teh shizzle amps. Ascendant- Ive only heard the atlas, yet to hear an avalanche but i have an 18 on the way...sapposed to be good chit and the price is unbeatable. Hifonics- Lookng for a budget amp with a good number in the power section? look no further. Brutus series is great for the money and the XX Colosus... i have wet dreams over that amp. Tru Tech- ive heard their tube amps, which i loved for rock, and the SH-1 is just so bad ass...i wish i had the money to buy their stuff. i just get to drool at car shows. Pheonix Gold- same hting as hifonics, good amps at a great price, they have some great solid state amps for mids/highs for the price... JL- if i had a chit load of money id have a pair of w713's and 2 JL 1000/1's above most things audio right now...but i dont so i get my good chit from internet/factory direct companies DDaudio-teh wang...thats all you have to say...dominated the SPL scene for years, even before i even knew how a speaker worked led alone about 170+ dB vans. Crystal-damn great componets adire- MSRP price raise or not their old chit was great and im sure the new stuff wont be disappointing well that is my fav brands that i have a good ammount of expernece, wether it be drooling over at car shows or helping install.

so yall know how we talk in the south? i wish i could make big speakers go boom like so untill they cant go boom no more but i like my money, or at least the little bit i have.

lol, let me go check which. "MTW or THHN-2 or THWN or Gasoline/Oil Resistant, Nylon Caseing" i dont know what that means but it is wire ment for the home not the car but once agian, i must reiterate, COPPER IS COPPER

Which is the good one? Pretty Beefy inside, when i first opened it i was like "WTF? this thing is pretty small." but then i felt how heavy it is, its no 45lb olympic weight but its pretty beefy, i dont doubt it does a pretty number for its size. Flash on Flash Off I hooked it up to the Bahns, Made them pound, which shows this amp is more efficent than the Sony...first time my ears have rang from messing with them and the first time the camera has completely gone quiet, not even a murmerd voice on the camera...damn i wish i could get some pron up..they move a good 1 1/4" P2P and for a pair of $70 subs that aint bad. now, chad needs to hurry his arse up so i can make my truck go boom like so.

check SIN Car Stereo > Bestus Install Evah 2

silly rabbit, thats OSB not plywood...and i did a science project on it, even plywood has better acoustic properties than OSB because OSB is so porus.

Meh, simple logic, Colder=More dense, the more dense it is the closer the molicles are. Remember that sound is a compresion wave, so one molucule has to bump into the next causing a rise then drop in pressure following the wave pattern. because the molicules are closer togather they more efficently the transfer of energy is. think of it like that cradle thing (i forget the name) with the 5 balls. the balls are molicules, idealy they would be touching, but that is near imposible iwth a gas, so lets move thoes balls arpat, the closer they are to each otehr the more efficently they will transfer the mechanical energy form the swinging balls. Humidity also raises the density of air, so it will have the same effect, to raise the density of air a whole lot you have to cool it quite a bit, so loading the air to 100% humidity is the easier way to get maximum density. hope that helped Just and FYI if you want to try using a compresed gas to cool the air, look at the molar mass of each gas, the safest with highest molar mass will be best beause it will be most dense since 1mol of any gas is 22.1@STP (if memory serves) (STP=274? kelvin which is 0 celcius and 1atm, 101.27kPa, etc...) so the gas with the greatest molar mass will be most dense because it will have the greater mass per volume.

but it is still quite flexible (to be so large) andmost dont use 1/0 for amps but as long as you didnt have to bent it around a corner wil a radius less than 1" it would just take a little more work and you would save 75% with just a few feet that is more than an hour getting paid minimum wadge.

you cant change the electronic configuration of copper. well you can but lets not make theis an ion chemistry discussion. Copper is Copper and all the copper used in all wire has very similar physical properties. there is "oxgen free" wire which is tinted with lead/tin (solder) befoer the caseing is placed on it. but this just prevents oxidation which, once the 1st layre is formed on the ouside it forms a protective coating so the inner copper doesnt oxydise (unlike iron and thealloy steel) so that doesnt do much since most wire will out last the vehicle. Look at these pictures and tell me if this wire is any different then the wire you see on the internet for 4.15/ft...

Home Depot

ohh and this is what will feed this little monstor, if it wants more than that it will jsut have to starve untill i can afforda new alternator. $.92 perfoot and its pretty flexible, not great but "ok" for doing the Big 3 bigger strands, you couldnt run it very easily but its pretty easy to bend to shape and it holds the shape compared tothe 4ga for the amp the 4ga and 1/0 togather and this scale is about 1 1/2lbs light

XBL^2 > LMT...call me an RE/Adire/old Ascendant Whore...truth is, LMT has benefits but it has a lot of developing before it can compeat with something as renound as XBL^2. and LMT is been around for a while, long before i was intrested in car audio (which isnt that long compared to some) Word Has it that because of the extra mass and inductance it takes quite the power to get the thing moving to be loud, not the XBL is efficent, but 4kw to compeat with todays prominent XBL drivers at their RMS. Either way that thing, "LMT" knock off or not, is a POS.

i just bought 10ft 1/0 and 15 4ga from Home depot, 0.92 a foot and its pretty flexible, but 10ft of 1/0 weighs a good 7-8lbs. they had 3/0 for like 1.20 a foot but i was like serious overkill. it was like 2 times the diameter of 1/0. 10ft would have been like 15 lbs. now i need the end lugs, i though i could save some money by getting them from lowes, 4.10 for soild copper ends for 4-3/0ga at lowes and 4.50 for 2 at home depot...for now on, in my book, homedepot >lowes. im gonna have to cut this 1/0 with bar cutters or bolt cutters...

The Power is coming from 2 PSU's i just soldred and tinnted all of the ends togather except for one for the REM turn on. I wasnt worried about blowing the bahns because i have them wired to 4ohm (series/parallel) and this amp does 450 (pretty sure 900@2ohm so 450@4) and these bahns are sapposed to be 300w rms each...plus i want to sell these eventually, after the new atlas's come out

Im bored and its raining... So anyway, ive decieded to just say... This place is cool, SIN is cool but there are a few (one in partiular) moderators that really bit me ass on a sunday morning sometimes SSA is all laid back and all...so ya Yes, I just wasted SSA's bandwith Yes, I just wasted your time Yes, I am bored out of my mind But im going to Gainsville today to hopefully pick up a few sheets of MDF for my Ava18 that, if the rumors arent true, will be here in a couple of weeks... oh and Yes, I am

if you need 4/0 in car you have one hell of a system...

fun, funner, funnest..look it up and dont call me a poser...he's from where im from

...and then we will all be like because the server will die and it will be all and then then you Noah and Mike will be all tah gay oh then all the people around town will be like then the server will come back up and we will all be like and say they are better then noahs and then noah will be like work=bord... nice pods

when speaking of Home audio most of that is true when spekaing of midbass drivers in ported and large sealed enclosures. just an FYI for anyone who doesnt already know. Suffing in an acoustic suspension enclosure for a subwoofer is NOT to dampen standing waves but to lower enclsoure Q resulting in lower extension with a smaller enclosure when compared to an enclosure of the same design.

the 2 amps ive repaird i it was the transistors, but it was easy to tell...they where burnt to a crisp, just got a new one of equal value and soldred it back in place and they both worked.. but i godda say, GD thoes are some beefy coponets

gay, Gay, GAY!!! my BX1205D will be here tomarrow...avalanche dustcaps fell off schedule, AGAIN, drivers will be shipped by the end of the month...and to think i was expecting to have installed before i turned 16...well at least it will happen buy the begining of this school year. for anyone who cares or wants to know...since after all one certian admin as made it the pluage to talk about it over on Ascendants form. well if i get my MDF this week i can have it finished and my amp installed by the end of this month. so if i put a little getoitness on it i can drop the 18 in as soon as Fedex drops it off...who knows...but its a pain working on an enclosure when you dont have pretty drivers to look at while taking a brake...

djjdnap, good post of information but a lot of the stuff is misinformed when speaking of an enclsoure truely devoted to the 2 lowest octaves and infrabass. Mainly, you do NOT want to dampen the interior of a true subwoofer enclsore because there are NO standing waves. the waves of bass frequincies are FAR too long to exist inside the enclosure and bunch up around bountries. Same goes for the "sealed/acoustic suspension" enclosures. a true subwoofer will always be acoustic suspension because usualy the waves cannot exist. Also, TL is the evolved more technical version of the 1/4 wavelength enclosure. it didnt differentiate between 6th and 4th order bandpass. Ported is more technically named Bass Reflux since it isnt technically a port. isobaric is generally usless, you get no extra useable displacement so a single driver properly powered in a good enclosure can yeild similar results to an isobaric set up. and horn roll off is generally NOT 24dB/octave... if this where true really bass horns with extension down to 20Hz would have to be even more massive than they already are but it did have some good information.

negative..my parents hate thoes so unless a freind is going i dont go...i went to hot import nights in orlando a lil while back...wasnt chit there...a bunch of cars all show no go trying to have bump contests...teh suked...

funny thing was i looked ad the vid while my mom was in the room...she just looks at me funny and went back to what she was doing...

:rolls eyes: copper is copper...i get my stuff from Lowes for 1/0 its like 1.18/foot i havent looked at 4 conductor wire but i gurontee you thay have multiconductor wire and it is cheaper than "Car Audio" wire, even from KK... For my RCA's i am going yo use sheilded CAT5 cable...already twisted in pairs and its sheilded...and there is 5 pairs (i think) and i only need 2 so i can drop resistance per foot simply by using 2 pairs per RCA end...