CBFryman

somehow im going to say this is bush's fault...lets impeach the damn lameduck just had to say it... This is so gay....sometimes id just like to ***************************** ************************* )(*^&%&$^%$(&^%()*&^&^(*%%$(&^%T)(*&^ ******************************** but they do pass some really stupid stuff...lets just hope and pray this isnt one of them...

jesus, cant i make a joking, yet true, responce...i didnt know this was SIN...

Polyester is cheaper, strong enough for audio, and more easily obtainable, plus you can ONLY use polyester in most fiberglass mats because they have chimeicals in the glass strands that help POLYESTER resin adhear and soak in. NjccBflo said 5-6layres with epoxy... about the same (maybe an extra layre or two) will do in most cases with polyester. but it doesnt have to be as thick if you have a lor of curves because curves is where polyester (and any fiber composite) is strongest. dont mean to call you out NjccBflo. Epoxy is great when building surfboards, extra light and even stronger for ding/dent prtection...but for car audio, polyester is fine.

youd be surprised on how fast your first jobs go...sure it makes things safer but id rather mix up a small portion, glass it in, then have to mix up more and do another area and have both cure quickly then waite over night to get the chit to cure. my first glass project took 2 days to cure completely because i thought i would go the "safe" way and mix less hardener than reccomended...now when i glass, for the most part, i mix it very hot because i get done with what im doing in only a few minutes... gets tacky enough to do another layre in 10-15min and gets gelly in 5min...but im talking with polyester resin, with epoxy they give you an aprox cure time and you ALWAYS mix to their reccomendations...ive found that out the hard way...too much hardener and its brittle and curse WAY to fast, too much resin and it never gets past gelly type stuff with out days to cure or a heat gun. use of a heat gun can also make it brittle.

used Tshirt???? lmao

wigga what? no bondo?

well see who is saying that when noah and i are making mucho denaro and you are pulling a whopping 30grand a year being a MacDonalds Manager.... Since, we actually care about education (well me only sort of)

areo ports are teh suck...and it isnt that i CANT fit this driver its that im squeazing out the space while not going above the window line and me sitting comfertably with only the removal of the jump seats...oh and mounting the amp on one side of the enclsorue restricting my length by an extra 3.5".... going 2" above the window line, removing the jack and 3rdand 4th door panels an seat belts and mounting my amp on top of the enclosure or below a seat with a slant i could easily get 7-8cubes with 80sqin of port area.... But that takes too much work. and that is just a quick example i drew up in Quick Cad (the suckier of my 2 cad programs, my other being auto cad which still isnt that great, not everyone can afford an $800 CAD program for their home computer) with out layres or anything and then did a screen shot and croped it so anyone could view it. BTW...Chad, who knows a hell of alot more about the drivers than you do num nuts said 6@~30 is where to start with the driver for SQl, and that going larger only opens up the low lows in the mid 20Hz area and lower. and 77sqin is following enclosure rules of thumb which are, for daily, 12-16sqin for ever cuft. i dont know where you learned arethmatic but 6*12=72... and with a true 1000w signal gay WinISD says i will be around 40 ft/sec port velocity...and since i doubt i will get a true 1000w with impeadance rise and the fact that i will rarely send it that much since ihave RE comps and even with rap i like to hear some of what they are saying...port noise WONT be and issue. Now...back to my question side firing, my other design, or another idea BESIDES areoports or PVC or any of that chit. Slotted ports ... BTW...wont be 15 for long... and i lost the chops a while ago from the last pic you saw of me...since ive started working i actually have to shave oh and i already told you why i am going ot have some sort of grille, not to protect punctures...to keep dumbasses form moving the seat all the way back

I Recently Talked to Chad Kyupers Drivers Start Shipping a week from today. While talking to him i mentioned 6cuft@29Hz, he said he had a guy do 4.5 at 30Hz and its output was INSANE with only 800w. he said 6@29 with 1200w should wang hard so im down to 2 enclosure options, both with equal port area (77sqin) only one iwth 2 ports and one with one. originally i though there was going to be no way to get the ports on the same plain as the driver, so i designed a side firing enclosure and the port a straight shot. then i came up with the idea to get the port on the same plain... see image below http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a167/CBFryman2/avatest.bmp the bottom thing is what the front of the enclosrue will look like (though the enclosrue will have a slanted front so i can get that "gangsta lean" on while driving) and the top thing is a cross section of one of the ports bottom being the plain the driver is on. and top being inside the enclsorue. The other idea was basicaly like a normal ported truckbox for a single cab with a sloted port seee DD's design and it was very similar only it was for a single 18 and super sized for the needed volume. a rectangular box just isnt an option, i cant evne squeez 5cuft ported from a rectangular enclosure with the needed port area. so slanted is the way to go. and im not sitting uncomfertably, ill go 5cuft sealed before i sit uncomfertably with room for .... ill shut up now my other thing is, i am going ot have some dubasses sitting in my truck, who will in herently move hte seat as far back as possible just because they can as soon as they get in (split bench seats) and befoer i notice i will have the sub turned up and will probably crack the coil from the cone from oneside being held down and the other not. so im working on a template for a fiberglass grille, check the design below.... http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a167/CBF...2/ascendant.bmp my only problem is im worried about air flow...it seems like there is too much blockeage...well post your thoughts, i could open up the grille more if i wanted to, it will just take some more deisning on CAD

lets see, you can get a gallon of polyester for as cheap as $30... do you have any idea what a gallon of epoxy cost around here? lets just say the chit that takes forever to harden completely cost about $40 a for 2 qts...and that is the cheap stuff...

Need Mo Pics Dawg because and with out pics you are a and i call now, but what you have so far

Epoxy also cost a chit load more and polyester resin and fiberglass are fine for 99% of audio projects... you jsut have to make it thick enough.

its because you have 4 ports. if you had one port of the same area as all 4 put togather the port wouldnt have to be as long because you have a trunk you can use less port area because you wont hear much of any port noise like you would if you had a truck or SUV or hatch

all you really need for car audio is nothing more than the 6oz cloth you can get at home depot, the 6-8oz mat you can get at home depot and the Bondoresin you can get at home depot. FYI Mat has greater strength in all directions but cloth has greater strength with the grain of the weav. mat then cloth, also cloth is easier to work with. but when looking for strength with cloth lay at a 45 degree angle from the previous layre for maximum strength in all directions. mat also soaks up a lot mroe resin than cloth. If you want to gel coat id reccomend getting some better stuff then the bodo you buy at home depot and of course the gel coat coloring. you can also get coloring for your resin. it can be picked up at any boat store but when i did do a gel coat i got it from fiberlay.com

oh ya, get that repaired with some rubber cement befoer pushing them hard agian

flush mount the drivers or design the enclosure to fire forward or rearward

you must have sanded your ass off or had a real nice orbital sander...lol

first one that came to mind...others... Ava 15's Brahma 15's Tumult 15's and 12's (15's are easier) RL-P 15's (no experence persoanlly but alot of people claim to) IA DP 15's and 12's (see above) DD 3515's DD9115's DD9512's and 9515's DD9900 (see above but i mean comeon..its DD's highes line) Higher end Kicker (Solo X's) Higher end Audiobahns the list goes on and on...today, all you have to do is port it and even with SQl tuning (low 30's) 140dB isnt that hard...

where did you get 150 from? also, who says you cant have a daily set up capebale of 140dB? XXX 15's do it all the time...

oh and small sealed boxes are louder in the upper bass spectrum...but it kills your lows

he is stuck in the late 90's where the way people got loud was with super high Q selaed boxes and lots of power... now we go the more effient way with ported boxes with lots of port area..yes ported is always louder than sealed of the same size....

technollogy smallogy id rather have somehting that hits the 140 deebeez with 1500w or less than one i have to murder my electrical system, then buy a new altinator, $300, Deep Cycle battery, $150, or two, $300, bigger amp, lotta mucho denaro, thicker power wire and fuses, only a few bucks more but its what i could save to buy cokes and all while installing or a six pack or two of good beer for friday night party's while thumping. just like id rather have my little i-4 getting 30mpg than my big 454 v8 getting 10 gpm (not a typo)...oh and id save on insurnace too. but if i could have any engine to play with it would be a little 1.3l...and it only has 3 moving parts...anyone want to make a geuss... capeable of 400 streetable HP easy...and there are some making as much as 800hp for drag... all you have to do is add more fule, boost, and widen the "seals" .i dont want to say which type because anybody with half a brain will know...of course anyone with half a brain should already know if they like cars...well other cars besides "american muscle" only lovers... who are usually just ricers with louder, better sounding exaust and cars that are sctually kinda fast. or just old guys who are stuck in their "prime"

dood, that is total pwnage if you ever need more midbass looks like you could even have the room to port cant wait to see them finished, you said you wanted yours (i think it was you) to turn out better than my tweeter pods...its gonna do that plus more looks like

man 18's are really light and they get so quiet...can you have 3 vowles in one word..that is so spelt wrong and i dont feel like correcting it for kicks and giggles...

umm...acetone to make a milk coat to fill in pinholes, an alrernative to bondo is resin mixed with fine sawdust...