CBFryman

it is wired to 1ohm, dumbass... someone wasnt paying attention. "assumeing an impedanct rise to around 3ohm" well impedance for a 1ohm nomimal is benched by Loyd L at 2.67ohm....go figure. tomarrow im going to raise the voltage to 43v (900w into 2ohm impedance around 700w with a 2.67 impedance)

im short, i can still lean back the seat i just had it leaned forward for the ghetto grille shot. im only 5'5'' and i like to be where i have just a bit of bend in my elbow but with my butt close enough so i can completely press the clutch with still good bend in my knee... and so little wattz because im making sure this ghetto RCA setup is gonna work.

not...pics coming soon, as soon as the bleeding stops... Well i got my MDF...while hauling it into the garade because it was starting to rain i tripped on my Floor jack, sliced my foot pretty deep, and got traped under a 50lb sheet of MDF.... well needless to say it was funny to me, untill i realized how bad my foot was bleading... 2paper Towels and a gauze pad later 2 more gauze pads later and a small bandaid and 2 hot pink bandaids later.... well once the bleeding stops completely (its starting to seep fomr under the bandaids...i hope i dont need stiches) and i finialize my enclosure plans (ive gone with my original idea, dual upfiring ports...screw it...) ill start on my enclsoure and post some pics

Why is it Member no. 1 never posts? SSaudio...WTF are you doing?? lol

you actually want louder than an Ava18 for daily? are you insane or something? anyway. I'd put my money on the MT as far as loudness is concerned but if i where you id get the Rl-P's so you'll sound good too...

ehh....audiobahns are for my room. if the atlas 15's wernt sold out id get one but oh well..these will have to do for a while. and the drill never even touched the cone the plastic was puled tight from the weight of the sub.

"This message is to alert you that the following package(s) is(are) due for delivery by FedEx: Shipped Scheduled COD Payment Tracking Id Date Date Type COD Amount *************** 7/05/2005 7/08/2005 $.00 Additional detailed information for packages(s) follows ... -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- PRE-DELIVERY ALERT (detail) Tracking Id....: *************** Pickup Address: Ship to Address: ASCENDANT AUDIO CHRIS FRYMAN 905 PINGREE RD STE C *** ********* ******** **** CRYSTAL LAKE, IL 600141703 LAKE CITY, FL ***** "SHIP TO" Contact Name.......: CHRIS FRYMAN Shipped Date.................: 7/05/2005 Estimated Delivery Date......: 7/08/2005 COD Payment Method...........: COD Amount Due at delivery...: $.00 Service Level................:GND PPD RES Package Weight...............: 57.00

goddamn....photobucket makes the images too small. on my computer it was like 1000 pixles by 1000 pixles...

ive never even helped installing a security system before...led alone one this complicated. I have a pheonix digital (i know) PD-175. The only major problems i could find with this was the rem starter. and i have a manual so i dont give a rats ass about that chit. Now i have manual locks. so it obviously isnt going to be controlling my locks. however its talking about the door pin trigger? WTF? im geussing this is the wire that knows when a door has been opened to send that current to a relay to turn on the dome light. there was a thing on here about getting a CD instalation help guide thing and i asked but never got one. oh well. maybe you guys can help me. im looking around on the 12 volt to find out if i have a positive or negative trigger. but can anyone tell me where i can find this trigger? also. how does this siren connect. from the diagram all i can geuss is i splice the red from the siren into the purple from the control module and then ground the siren? i geuss it already has the circut built into it to determine the pitch/what it says? and if this is the case, eventually id like to get a pair of these pain inducers. could i just send the purple to a relay and then run the siren and the pain inducers off of the relay? also, where am i going to mount this? inside the cab or in the engine compartment. id rather have to run the least ammount of wires i can. 1 drill throuhgt the firewall and 1 grommet maximum if i can (hopefully only for thedoor trigger) really i dont think i need the door trigger. the module sets up to where if you dont open the door with in 40sec it tries to relock your doors. but since it isnt going to lock my doors because i dont have power locks that doesnt really help me. except for that i assume it rearms the system as wel land is going to go off in 40sec after i startthe car and its going to tell me there was an illegal start or some BS. of course it isnt even being wired into my iggnition but the alarm/horn/lights should be going crazy because it will sence the vibration form the engine and the Gforces from the movement. and i will look stupid driving a vehicle with the alarm going off so any help would be greatly appreciated. i tried taking pictures of the wireing diagram but i just cant get it clear so i will draw it up in paint as best i can and post it asap. i would be asking this on the 12 volt but they pay no mind to me and thoes froms move so damn fast.

it was like 2-3 months ago, whoever was making the 18" naskets went out of business or some BS... deNim...sorry

it cures faster that way (it may be water activated i dont know. moisture in the air does fine on my hands whne i use it. i only use it for screwless stuff) but its just like unactivated greatstuff....when yo uget it wet it cures/expands faster than not. which is why when using greatstuff its a good idea to lightly soak (more than a mist but not drench) it and the surrounding area with water. as for geting it off. some will come off with sand paper but the rest...just has to wear off over the course of a few weeks.

kool, i know what you mean. ive been to Orlando 4 times in the past 2 1/2months.... well i got you to post. this form is the best on the net IMO. the information source of SIN with the laibackyness of....well i dont know another bord that is as laid back as here....so you picked a good assistant admin or w/e denim is

All this is teh gay....

yes, we smoke lotes of purple haze and listen to bob marley while roller skating naked through the cross walks eating fruit cake... welcome... just dont announce to them that you are coming over here. i like this place how it is and i dont want it to turn into CA or SIN

ya i tried slugging the box before i went, but i couldn't find anything to take up enough room, to really make a difference. so i got in there w/ a tire iron and ripped out about 6-7" port. hoping that the little bit of calculation i did in my head was right. i was at 6ft@31Hz so i guessed at 6.5ft. but i ploted the impedance afterwards to get a tuning of 34-36Hz. i plan on redoing the box w/ more port tuned higher. and a second battery. i do wanna get a second ega1400d... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> around 35Hz should give you a good jump on the TL over 27Hz...what was your peak frequincy with the 143?

you dont even have the super class D like us cool kids

FC? im conpoosed

also, for comparison, that cooler in the back is 4cuft inside

finally its finished, just need to wait untill the chaulk dries...and i need to smooth out the ports (kinda a gap i need to fill too. but its at the top where my funk port deisgn made me trim the mounting sheet of the baffle to fit leaving a little gap, no leaks) all thread in and everything. just need to bolt it and hook up the amp and install the driver oh and one more comparo pic, esspecially for demin (or how ever you spell it)

here paint owns me 4 evah the onlything this doesnt include is the to ocmmunication module (easy enough, plug and mount) and starter bypass, window roll up (dont care) and hood switch (green/black, Brown/black, and blue/black respectively if it matters) http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a167/CBF...eingdiagram.bmp

meh.... thermal powerhandleing never changes, however mechanical does. above tuneing (especially near it) mechanical poerhandleing is greater. this is due tothe fact that hte air in the port has mass and hte speaker has to move it causing more resistance. below tuning (as already stated) the sub unloads and mechanical powerhandleing is decresed because it moves a LOT further. a port does nothing more than put backwaves from the speaker back to the front with a delay to keep them in phase. its "tuning" is simply a result of the mass of the air's resonant frequincy in relation to the volume of the enclsoure inside. its kinda hard to explain why there is a bump in SPL around tuning, so think of it this way. while playing the trombone to change the pitch you change the lendgth of the "port" which you are making your "buhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh" sound through. the longer you make your "port" the louder the frequincy that makes up a small portion of that "buhhhhhh" gets due to the acoustical properties of the "prort" as you shorten it the same happens with a higher frequncy. however with a low enought tuning and the right ammount of volume ported responce and be nearly as flat as sealed with a Qtc of 0.707 but with an even mroe extended responce. this usually requires a large enclosure with a port tuned quite low. in car you dont need much below 28-30Hz because music doesnt get that low. so that is usually where most tune to with the biggest enclsorue they can spare for the flattest responce possible. in stupid, the air dun like 2 move. so ahen dat air reacts 2 the air in the box. it wants to move least @ a certian moves per secund. this be teh tuning. it be boosted cus the speaker may still have duh movement to keep movin.

*busts out the oxy acetalien (sp) torch* *doesnt work* *plasma cutter* *basket go bye bye*

supa...how the hell is it you have 12k posts yet youve only been here 3 months before me?

BX1205D these pics look familure? i just noticed i mounted my bass knob sorta crooked...oh well oh and update pics that is one tight ass fit. im looking for some 100 grit for the belt sander...gonna run it around a few times to get an extra 16th of an inch or clearance or so. w/e its called i wanted the 6spoke...the one that looks like DD's higher end and IDmaxes basket but for 18's (so its 6 spoke instead of 4). but it doesnt matter because the 12 spoke sapposeably has better rear ventelation (better for ported) and im not mounting it inverted. but i just thought it was something different. i geuss when chad took the pics it was back when there was an 18" basket shortage in the 12 spoke (which is why RE was out of 18's which is why i ended up with this instead of an SX18...and i think i will be happier with this. not louder, but happier)

BX1205D