CBFryman

funky thing i just discovered at 1:00am...when you get plastic REALLY cold (like frost bite cold) its gets REALLY plyable....kinda wierd...try it yoruself. get one of thoes air dusting cans and a CD, then spray the airdusting can on the CD upside down so the liquid comes out...drench it, once there is enough room to pick it up w/o getting frost bite you will find it distorted and easy to bend...

if your going over the window line may as well wall it so 4cuft, if results are undesirable try the other enclosure...MDF is like 20 bucks a sheet screw maybe 10bucks for 2 lbs and a $7 thing of wood glue... so if you use 2 sheets thats $57 unless you think you have to make it purdy the window line is what will keep me from compeating any further than local with my current enclosure. but me thinks in a year + senior project...hmmmmm wall or S-2??

OMG!!! this thing is INSANE! i have the gains so so extremely conservative. only to aprox 30v asumeing an impeadance rise to around 3ohms im only getting 300-400w. and my roof is "only" flexing 1/4-1/2"....my dome light is "only" moving 1/16th (or so). not too many rattles but it hasnt gotten very loud yet either. the main test song has been "push that" but little john. no rock yet (im still amazed with its loudness wiht only 300-400w). it is overpowering my componets like they are nothing. speaking is impossible. and in the low lows (30Hz area, near tuning) the pressure changes are starting to take effect (as far as the funny breathing). not the loudest ive been in but deffanitly the loudest with such minimal wattage. already nearly as loud as the "157" set up my friend has (4 JL w1v2 12's with 500w) the only thing lacking is the little hurt of the ears when unprotected. the cone is just beinging to move, hasnt gone below tuning yet. its only moving 1/2" right now (or maybe more...the cone is so large it makes movement seem smaller and with no refereny logo because the CF blends with itsself) like i said, the truck doesnt rattle very much at all. none to be heard inside except on the VERY low/loud notes. and distortion is minimal besides what the stock headunit is giving. to even really hear my componets i have to turn my bass knob half way down which is -9dB. but, i need to get an amp for my componets now and high pass them at around 50-60Hz. well enough talking here are some installed pics excuse the ghetto grille... function before form

i dont havem uch TL experence but this is what i can gather... TermLab mics are vastly more accurate, a lot siffer (harder to get "loud" on them) and they dont wear out and have to be constantly recalibrated everytime someone who is really loud gets on it (wears out the suspension). Also, TermLab takes a lothargic average so you may peak at say 147 but your two closest highs at that frequincy are 143 and 145. there for you will hit a 145 "legal" on the termlab. where has if you can hold a steady peak long enough to register on the AC it is "legal." also ther are stories of hitting outrageous numbers on the AC...like 157.1 with 4 JL w1v2's and a 500w amp in an extended cab truck and some of hitting say 151 and then 15min later going back and only getting 145 with nothing changed... same volume, same atmospheric pressure, same temperature, same vehicle...everything. some say that the 170+ setups that used to be hit on the old AC's are only 160's on Term Lab.

144.3 in the middle of hte dash on the AC and i forgot to turn my bass knob all the way up, it was set to 3/4 it was on track 19...whic his 38Hz...wow. [email protected] also, the both doors and windows where closed, which isnt MECA style. my nuts where vibrating agianst the seat and my nose tickled really bad. so windows open and mic on the floor and bass knob al lthe way...145 on the AC shoundnt be a problem. and it was a new mic, or so says the owner, so it was still a little stiff, the highest hit on it so far was 149.5 and he geussed mine to be 140dB and hte pansy guy that sat i nthe passenger seat started plugging his ears at 141dB...i tried to talk to him and ask him why...i couldnt hear myself..afterwards he said it was starting to hurt...pansy. so now if i get my 4.5cuft ill tune to 35Hz with the ability to shorten and i should dominate these local MECA comps since im tuned to 27Hz right now

the weird thing is after it warms back up to near room temperature it goes back to its original shape. i was just sitting in the shop searching in internet and then i saw an old backup DVD with a new pack of air cans sitting next to it. so i get one of the aircans out and start fewwzing paper and cardboard and then i was like "hey, plastic gets brittle when it gets cold desnt it?" only in my head. so i spray in one spot and it gets kinda warped but as soon as the frost goes away it goes back...so i decided to drench the whole thing... when i picked it up i could bend it back and forth really easily. then i drenched it agian and threw it agianst the floor really hard...it didnt shadder or brake or anything it just kinda got more distorted...but when it warmed back up it went back to normal... so i tried it on an unburnt CD-R and the same thing happened... now i have to go find my dremel tool

in 2 ways http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...470entry92470 and the old stuff it was illegal and starting to get bubbles just form being old...and my parents said before i can drive at night i had to get legal on there so here it is. "dont roll down your windows and dont tought hte film for 2-3days and come back monday for a recheck" glad my AC works good.

because i wasnt paying for it that was part of my b-day presents...and since they where forcing me to take it off the least they could do was get some new stuff back on. besides it would have only saved me $30 and the stuff to remove the glue is like $10 for a bottle

well it wouldnt be a problem if you could see out hte window with out cracking it at night it was 15% on there i beleive...like whats legal for rear side windows where you cant see in at all unless you get right up on it and block glare...and that is what is on the back side and the rear but this had to go on the font/side windows. mine was $100 because they had to srip the tint off and they wernt the ones to install it originally. otherwise it would be $65. the tint isnt what is expensive, its ths skill and time... my dads astro was $155 for legal all around.

AS2 me thinks...but my enclsorue doesnt meet requirements by like 2" with the height. id be in AS1 if the BX1205D was rated to 1000w.

we are in a different MECA class arent we? but i want to hear 153 on the AC...not that fake ::cough:: 157...lol

depends, the vapors may or may not be harmful depending on the rubber used most rubbers today used on drivers are no longer harmed by silicone vapors and the foam ones are treated with certian chemicals that make them resistant to deterioration. but to be safe light the fumeso n fire...lol oh i mean to have fun...

wish my roof flexed like that but my windows are moving a good 1/4 of and inch when rolled down. but i have 1/5 your wattage and im in a truck...lol nice radar movement...id love to hear it some time in person.

rule of thumb is to never mix drivers with any ammount of t/s parameter differences

Well i found my dads multimeter that can measure AC current...the screen was crushed...so off to radioshack i go since im not in the position to buy a clamp meter. here is the results of my impedance testing. http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a167/CBF...18impedance.jpg and for thoes that DONT exactly understand how to hook it all up it goes a little somthing like this http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a167/CBFryman2/vac.bmp btw, wtf denim? image tags no longer allowed on this board?

big difference between a $30 lowes multi meter and a $100 fluke clamp on multimeter and heh as no use for such a tool and my parents dont buy me anything... so sorry if your cutdown didnt work too well

repwnzjoo foos... lol IMO you should make it exactly 18" tall and compensate for the depth...looks clean that way with no step down from the seat......

the12volts.com has been a good help while planing out my security system...but the form sucks.

DIYaudio.com DDaudio.com and if anyone could find all the papers Dan Wiggins has written on adires new website...i dont feel like looking.

3 of them are like 1.40 at autozone....

Question: For low volume charting, why couldnt you just connect one voltmeter to the amp terminals to measure line voltage and one ampmeter in to the circut? and just makesure you dont go over 10a which is hte maximum for most multimeters. or would the amp meter cause too much of its own impeadance? I have too many multimeters to handle (between my dad and i) but none are clamp and i dont feel like fooling with that formula with the 10ohm non inductive resistor. and if i could do this i wouldnt even have to take the driver out of the enclosure to connect anything...wich would also be a plus. i dont know if this has already been answeared but i am at work and dont feel like taking the time to read 8 pages (7 because i already read the first stuff of course)

may have been, the one on woofervids.com. im working on getting the impeadance charted but now my main project is the security system and getting the enclosure bolted down.

Reset the gains today and put a pice of blue tape on the dust cap, still isnt moving near full xmax, even at 25Hz...but this thing is a low end beast... looking out any of the mirrors on anything below 50Hz is impossible (60 on the inside rear view). at around 30Hz the vibration beings to move the inside rearview out of place instead of back and forth, rear windsheild ism oving a bit the roof has stoped flexing as much (dome light is still moving). maybe it was my imagineation. yesterday. 25Hz, with the gains reset and the bass knob all the way up, the jelly in my eyes goes wave like so (lol) yet audible output is very slim. gear selector (which is in neutral) vibrates eraticly if the door is opened...still havent checked if i could do a little bit of the hair trick though i imagine i will be able to at around 28Hz where maximum cabing pressure with the window cracked feels to be at. still isnt hurting my ears, probably because there is no distortion to speak of. i know output is being cut back by my head unit because the dash vibrates quite a bit. it probably thinks it is going down a really bumpy road. its startin to rain so i had to stop playing and i think i may be starting to piss the neighbors off. so no pron. tomarrow i will do a few tones at 28Hz with door loosely latched to see if i canget the door to move, though i dont think i will. on the song at the end of the funkypup destructo vid...omy the lower note of the beat feels like getting sholdertackled by a sweeper twice your size (soccer) over and over when sitting right infront of the driver. well im on the look out for a good 100wx2@4ohm amp on ebay. even with the bass knob down there is a gap between 70 and 100Hz and if amping these componets my next step will be either Ascendants 6.5's or thoes 6/5's that look like a fire place that are still in prototype stage. my ears feel like they are full of warm water now and ive just been in from it a few minutes. voltage drops now and the dome light drops then recovers right when you hit a tone. now that i think of it, the pain from my friends setup may have been from distortion and higher frequincies... the main discomfort with this is on the low lows with breathing. i cant wait untill i actually get my licence (next tuesday) to go get it metered on the AC.... its gonna be weird burping at like 30Hz...lol but that is the consequince of having such a low Fs (half that of the XXX18). i tried a12.5Hz tone but there is no way to turn off the subsonic and it is set to 15Hz... but on "bass i love you" this thing does move...a good inch or so. well the pizza man is here...g2g

want to know a good grommet for 4ga? get a windsheild wiper bushing and remove the metal inserts then take a razor and widen the gap so it will fit through your firewall.... its neoprene (sp) so its more resistant to oil/grease/gasoline/brake fluid than an old rubber gasketand its very thick...once you get it in (kinda a pain) it wont pop out most of the time like your normal grommets. i dont know if its the same with the mustangs but my truck it was a pain in the arse to find a place to run the power cable (probably is since you had to run it in the wheel well) and when doing an install in a friends focus hatch it was the same way...same thing with a Mazda MX-6...ford must hate stereo/security installers or something.

3ohm isnt uncommon...