CBFryman

I'll give that a try if plugs dont fix it. Plugs are like $3 each and she only has 4. I'm sure they are getting close to due anyway. I solved my trucks problem. I took the wheel off and ran my finger over the rotar, Ive got two or three gouges. I had my dad take a look at it and he says it was from the rivets in the pad and that the pads are cheapie POS (tall rivets and no squaling shims). He says they should be able to be turned. I called down to my friend's dad's machien shop and he said he'll do it for free, I just need to drop them off tomarrow. So today after practice I get to take apart my bearings. I'm gonna go ahead and replace the bearings while im down there and when I get the rotars back I'm going to get some high quality pads. No $20 Jiffy Lube chit balls. I even found the record of the last brake change, a mere 18,000 miles ago at Jiffy Lube. Oil Change, Chassis Lube, and Brake Pads $55 special...I'm going to pay that much just for pads.

junkyard ftw. over here we have shops that buy cars damaged in accidents and take them apart to sell them for parts. try to find a similar car and take the rotors off. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Good Idea. I can also get these resurfaced if they arent to bad. I have the hook up at a machine shop.

Its the FRONT right brake. I have drum rear brakes. It happends below 20mph, mostly when brakeing but slightly when costing. Now that I think about it I dont hear it in reverse...ill double check that today. I've yet to change the pads on the truck but I've only put 10,000 miles on it. Last time I changed my oil thickness was above above 1/4" and they where both evely worn. I was planning on changing them with my next oil change.

I would jump in on this had my brakes not just gone to hell and back.

and new pads and rotars is going to cost me $200.

I think I already have what Eldorado is talking about. I hope that is all I need. Doing some reading it sounds like I've damaged my rotar, how I dont know since I never had any squealong and on last brake check up they where of adequite thickness. I bet the dusche I bought the truck from put some cheap pads on it to save money and they didnt have the shims that make that terrible noise when you need to replace your pads. Im going to take the wheel off and see if there are any gouges or abnormal wear on the rotar and check the pad thickness.

I hate dell. Notebook or desktop. Dell pisses me off. Esessically their homo casses, one of a kind power supplies and ram, and stupid assed software.

What gapping tool are you reffering to? This is the kind I am familure with. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002LJR7...3469?n=15684181

Yes alternators depend on the boat but I'm assumeing this is some sort of run-about or fishing boat. Our bayliner is only 60a and my friends deck boat is only 70a. My dad's chriscraft has and 100a alt on each motor and a 5kw generator. By that is a 29' cruiser.

Thanks, I really hope I havent gone that far. I didnt have any squeaking at all, it just started happening all of the sudden and all of my other brakes are fine.

And I's like to not have to buy a gapping tool. I have shims and All if it is possible to gap with thoes.

I Blew the back speakers in my truck. All 4 wired in series to 32ohm and the wall still won.

Ive bought a number of smaller things from him. He is probably the best seller I've bought from. He goes out of his way to get things done for you over a measly $15 purchase. When a certian *cough* chitty shipping company screws up he goes out of his way to send a whole nother product. I would never hesitate to buy from him EVER. I cannot tell you how good of a guy he is. Ok so it sounds like I'm in love with him, but if I where gay... ok /steven linch Anyway, A+ Seller.

Mark Antony amps look like sex...that is all I know about them first hand.

Stoe the amps in a water tight area and you should be good. A place where they have their own supply of air to cool themselves but where it is sealed off from the outside. Use overkill power and keep the gains down to keep the amps cool too. You are correct on treating it like a convertable, If the boat has a tower (fishing ot wakeboarding) it seems to work good to put them above the listener aiming down. The Kicker KS series Co-Ax has a metal cone and rubber surround and is approved for marine use, I would look into thoes. They sound awsome for the price. Also remember to not put too much power in there. Most boat alt's (unless it is a big cruiser or something) arent more than 60-80a that I've seen. Hope I helped some.

Comming to you tomarrow, the gasket on the JBL's is funky and I cant get it to seal in one place. It's pissing me off, it makes a hissing noise at high volume and I know they arent getting as loud as they can.

I dropped them in aginst my JBL's and let me tell you, things are looking up. Once I get my IS2080 back from Flakko I'll do them IB in the doors. In the mean time I am going todo some "anecho" IB testing and some free air impeadance curves from 50-5kHz.

We broke in our DD's before we put them in the 'Rex But that was to loosen the suspension and we used a wall socket.

The ranger, I hardly ever use my AC...even here in FL. They ranger is also a dependable SOB. Much more so than the contor. You may also want to look into an arealy 90's toyota or honda. You could chit in the gas tank and they would still run.

Celeron FTL

That's 475 watts for the entire system at 100% load ... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I completely over looked that. I retract my past statements.

You got PM back.

I can get you Cadence, Massive, and Sound Stream.

Take thoes back speakers out foo... You might gain a few tenth's just from doing that.