flakko

what about with the vlx?

long story short, my bros car is breakin down, hes leaving in a few months, he drive my car for a while, i get a new car. when bro gone, daddy drives my old car. Well ive decided to get a 94 crown victoria, and stuck between two cars 1. Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor $1500 and 164k miles http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_...&cardist=22 2. Ford Crown Victoria LX Sedan $1900 103k miles http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?rdpa...&cardist=29 I like the way the white one looks much better than the blue one, its cheaper, and a "police interceptor" but the drawback is the mileage. I looked up both on carfax and both seem to check out good. my one of my concerns is what the difference between a Police interceptor and a normal vic is, and ill throw a "what would you buy" question out there as well. thanks for all your help.

no, 400a is correct.... http://www.usamps.com/technical/pdf/wp800_99.pdf ^^ more specs than you'll ever need on the vlx-400...jeez that amp is a monster. edit: its rated 2400w @ .006 thd holy crap. they should put these back into production

In the morning. I just got home from the father-in-law's, and he gave us a new camera for Christmas. I'm going to work now. NO NOW! dang cant wait till friday....

same thing happened with my buddiies Scion TC...freakin sub wont play low.

mmmmm opium.

That was one of my first suggestions to the customer but he liked the idea of running a single woofer. Just giving the customer what they want not what I want (not being stubborn about it and letting it cost me my job haha) wait what? a single woofer? why not just do the single xxx? you know what you should do....unhook the 12's let him hear it. then hook the 12's back up and see which one he likes better. if he likes it with the 12's more power to him.

im talking about the tutorial lol. teaches you how to seal your doors.

well maybe the 12's can play like 60-30hz, and hte 18's can play under 30. could possibly work, but imo pointless, why not just throw a coupla 18's up in there? im sure you have the room.

well not necessarily. did you click the link i posted? if not here it is again. nice little tutorial: http://www.raamaudio.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?p=ht

No, I figured I'd be ok with the 200 but damn, not this thing lol. I'm going to have to order those fuses too. If anyone could help me out on that cap, LMK. I'll pay for the part, your trouble, and the shipping. Thanks Flakko. what voltage are you getting when the bass hits?

Shut up. he is trying to give you valuable information here that will help you through life. this is serious business. Dead. Serious. Business. but seriously, front stage first, and dont forget to seal the doors.

yea the xt1600.2 isnt THAT underrated lol. it will do about 600w@4 so yea you are good to go with that man.

nah man. no laughs here. i had a stock 65a alt on my car, no big 3. only had an odyssey 1400 up front i was safe with around 600w. dipping to around 12.5v with the system bumping umm if you want to go with the md2d, upgrade to 1/0 gauge, big 3, get a better battery, and maybe your alt...how big is your alt? if you want to use the md1d, 4 gauge will do fine, but do the big 3 and upgrade the battery, and depending on the size of your alt, the alt as well.

these oldler usamps are known to be major current hogs...on top of that this sucker probably puts out 1kw+ more than the sundown. also like sqguyib said, its a/b so it will be even MORE hungry for electricity. i would upgrade the alt man

nice lookin sub....not feelin the orange tho. i like the crossed out trash can lol

passive = passive (fixed xover frequency) crossover like so: http://cgi.ebay.com/BOSTON-ACOUSTICS-SL60-...1QQcmdZViewItem active = active crossover (adjustable xover frequency) + separate drivers each with its own amplifier channel. example of an active crossover: http://cceshop.com/coustic-3way-electronic...ver-p-1257.html

nope. maybe 5 of them MIGHT. definitely not 2. if you really wanna run 2 just turn the gains down

well if you MUST run rear speakers, get a cheap pair and run them off the deck. you can always fade to the front if you dont wanna hear them... http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=4910 ^^ somethin like that but do as john said. bridge the 4channel if you dont wanna go active to get more power out of the amp for your fronts

an md1d would be PERFECT for a BL....although if you want a little more overhead, an md2d would suit you better. just be sure to set your gains correctly. you can never have too much power if you electrical is up to it my friend so in a nutshell, get the m2d if you can afford to pay the extra. if not, an md1d would be perfect as well. i think you will be happy with either decision. p.s. whats your electrical look like?

didnt have enough time to bench the md2d. we were talking for 2 hours in the conference room.

Date: November 30th 2007 Time: 2:00pm - 3:00 pm Place: Usamps 315 Cloverleaf Dr. #K Baldwin park CA 91706 Proposed Schedule: 2:00-2:10 people arrive and introductions 2:11-2:20 Show people around 2:31-2:45 bench test some amps XT4000D, MD2d, MD43, AX5600, AX3200DE 2:46-3:00 Q&A More details as the time approaches, but there WILL be Q&A so if you can't make it, post up your questions (get down and dirty) here and you will be heard! Also feel free to let me know if yall are able to come or not because it wouldnt be a tour without the people! The more the merrier! that is all for now, and hope to see you there!

nope its what it is homie.

i've seen the outside, but never the inside looks like something out of a science fiction movie