flakko

All i can say is WOW... just wow. im a believer Jim, ima believer. the music got louder, more detailed, and most importantly it doesnt clip! i have to listen to all my music again tubes forever. i cant believe im only getting around 100w from this amp... but one thing is wierd...sometimes when i change tracks, the amp doesnt kick on... gotta wait a few seconds, and it comes on. i dont know whats up with that.

me want large

did you like read any of the stuff i wrote on your other thread? lol it was stated twice. once by me and once by SouthPole

i'm sorry, but i would have to agree. i am honestly bout 85% confused about what you are saying. why didnt the shop change the wiring to what the manual said?

never heard a JLw7 before but i had a pair of JLw6v2's off an 05 version md22 and it bumped. clean too. but like i stated in the past, the Merlin line = the AX line. the only difference is that if you want more than 2kw or some tube hybrids, go with the ax line. if you want power 2kw and under an normal solid state 2 ch. the merlin is where its at. same circuitry. the md3d should give you around 1kw@3 ohms (its rated 1200w@2)

looks uuber hot

WHAT? your dealer messed up...tell them they screwed up the wiring badly and you need them to fix what they did...they didnt hook it up the way it was supposed to be hooked up. although going out on your own wasnt best thing to do either. i dont know if they will honor your complaint after you messing around with the wiring. the best thing to do right now IMO is go to your dealer and bring this up to them. I dont know what else you can do right now. directly from the manual (also for other people):

well...i recently got an hd (720p) version of "Planet Earth" and my AMD A64 3800+ can't handle it! sadly, my comp is out of date already anyways ive been shoping for a new comp and i came up with this for a gaming rig im gonna reuse my SSF case: Mobo: GIGABYTE GA-G33M-DS2R http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?...N82E16813128053 G-card: EVGA 8800GTS http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?...N82E16814130082 PSU: Rosewill 550w http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?...N82E16817182017 CPU: INtel Core 2 duo E6750 http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?...N82E16819115029 RAM: 2 gigs of kingston RAM (dun worry is compatible with mobo http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?...N82E16820134114 CPU Cooling: Asus V-Nardo http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?...N82E16835101008 total shipped will be: $921.95 im going to buy this piece by piece so i wont blow my money all at once. lmk if anything should be changed or added or whatever, or just your thoughts

heard a couple of MX's and i heard no mechanical noise. maybe cause of the invertendess. probably the invertness. Most people don't realise how much "noise" a sub can really produce. i am going to assume its because of the neo motor. it heats up and the way the sub was designed its using that free flowing cooling. cause the noise is mainly coming from the air moving in and out where the coil gap is. Maybe you should make a thread over on the FI forum and ask scott about it? just a thought.. or maybe go to CSO the official RE forum and ask about it

lol let me know what you think about it. im planning to run that for my next setup edit: if the version you got is the 2007 version, the sub channel is underrated at around 750w and the speaker channels will do rated if a teensy bit more

it should be able to handle it.

system sounds sweet! the 2007 xt class D's have bumped thier power output a little. this is what i would do if i were in your situation.... *run the 0 guage and distro it off. with 4 gauge you would be choking your amps that way if you wanted to upgrade, it would give you room to do so. *ditch the cap...but if you must, its all good. *upgrade the coaxes (i see that you already are) with the big 3 and optima, you shouldnt have any electrical problems.

gracias!

the md3d benched at 2000w, a number straight from dirk himself.

wasaaaap!?!

CONGRATS DUDE!

who installed this for you? personally have never strapped any amp before so i can't be much of a help to you. the only thing i can ask is did you put one amp to "master" and one amp to "slave"? if you havent done that yet, do that, and dont worry about the gains or xovers on the slave amp. use the master amp to control both units. its cool because you dont have to gain match. if THAT doesnt work, take it to a usamps dealer to checkit out. I hope greg or JR or someone who knows how to use MLT can chime in on this situation.

did you: big 3 0 gauge wire maybe upgrade your battery? the 80a alt aint helping much either (but you have that fix on the way)

it has to be hooked up to your head unit/line driver/LOC watever with some RCA's to set your gains correctly

i may have missed something, but i would think playing tones and setting with a dmm would be more conservative if anything. how would that burn stuff up? If you think about the funky equation it is telling you that in order to get say 1000 watts at 2.5ohm, you need to have 50 volts, and 20 amps. To get the amp to put out the 50 volts that you are looking for with your dvom you have to crank your gain all the way and max out the head unit, even then you are still only at say for example 42 volts. Resulting in a 100% square wave, once the woofer load is put on the amp. JL should be shot for coming up with a method like that...making things waaaaaaay too complex. Rule of thumb, 3/4 or less, 1/2 on the gain if not less is best. Moral of the story the only point of having a gain is to match the input signal that your RCA's are giving the amp....nothing more, nothing less. If you abuse it your woofers will tell you (the smell). true dat, never thought about it that way....ive been a lemming although ive done it the exact same way in the past, before i started to set my gains by ear and got my EQ with a clipping led, and it worked perfectly fine, nothing blew up on me... if anything i needed to bump the gains even more to get the results i wanted. edit: he also didnt say wat his input voltage was...like the higher the input voltage, the lower you need to turn your gains up. of course that will be taken into consideration once he puts his dmm in the speaker terminals no?

i may have missed something, but i would think playing tones and setting with a dmm would be more conservative if anything. how would that burn stuff up?

oh snap, your research > my research. so its doable?

did you read the link i gave you? it shows you step by step how to set your gains. as eldorado says, its "n00b ready" where was your gain knob set?

they don't lookbad at all. . . my only problem with that sub is its 8 ohm coil . . . right now with my current amp, it would work to run a pair of them, but i'm looking at going to a single 10 or 12. . .i plan on upgrading amps in the future and using my hifonics for my door speakers. . . i would like to make more effiencient use of my available power thats fine, just run the amp at 8 ohms. the SD-1 is rated at 200w, and the amp will run cooler and more efficiently.

hmm im debating....KNU Karma or Stinger....