bassahaulic

This isn't necessarily true, since the motor doesn't run with electricity just needs it to start and power some fuel systems. Replace it with a large alternator, and put a large battery under the hood where your stock one goes and you should be all set.

Where are we going Jesus? The land of Audio Knowledge, A.K.A. my house.

Jesus, come on people. Are ALL the wires on the new harness connected to all wires on the radio? The main ones you need to look at are the two blue ones.

What it sounds like to me and friend is that when you had the amp on 12v the ground was good enough to keep the amp grounded and safe, then when you started the vehicle and achieved 14v your ground was insufficient causing permanent damage. This issue with the amp couldn't have been detected as the damage would have been caused in your car.

Would the Yellow Top be a second battery for the rear?

I'd go for 5^3 with 100^2 port area tuned to 35Hz. Should get down REAL good. Same box I have in my GF's car doing 146's at 38Hz legal.

How much port would that 5^3 box have? You want sheer output without caring about how it sounds?

End this thread now. http://www.audioque.com/HD-Series-Subwoofers_c_13.html

World Champion in SQ for years had 6 L7 15"s.......

You have to spend alot of money to get basic features with Alpine. I LOVE Kenwood for their price to features ratio.

What's the ohm load of the woofers? What kind of enclosure? What's your electrical modifications look like?

I also hope you running 16v, other wise your not getting near 4k out that amp.

I'm in the South. O_O

1999 Chevy Venture The GF reading, a.k.a. xGTDropTopx Big 3 with Yellow Top Dual 1/0 runs to rear G31 Blue Top SPACEEEE 400' of 15awg speaker wire/ RE MT 18" My friends old 2 18"s box for his Trailblazer Gave up in a few minutes. The tool kit........ well part of it. Soon to be installed..... 4 mids/4 tweets per front door.

Bring me some!!

:-) Van is in the shop getting all fixed up, I'm starting my new job soon, then it gets rolling.

I feel sorry for the guy, I have come to notice Atomic and most everyone who deals with them is shady, scamming, and just worthless.

More then likely the Kicker will be louder. The Hifonics does less then rated power and Kicker does more then rated power. So when trying to push the Hifonics to keep up with the Kicker, you will cause the Hifonics to clip before the Kicker would so the Kicker would sound better.

All depends on the box, woofer, power, music, and tuning.

I mean, the 4500D is just a thought. Maybe in the future (talking prob a year from now) it might become part of the plan, but just want to know how future-proof I will be by going 0 gauge. So it looks like the Knu is the best option for now. Also, forgot to ask, I will be running my 2000D in 2ohm (1000watts) for now. Should I stick to 100amp fuse that I been using in my previous vehicle? The sub and amp worked great with 100amp fuse. Fuses are for the wire, not the amp usually. I would put a 300 amp fuse on it, that's just me.

Kaboom.

For the single 3500 the Knu will be fine, I would do dual runs of either for the 4500 though. Just to be safe. The Knu will be sooooo much easier to work with in the BMW compared to the welding cable.

Is this going in your house? Or your car?

Nope, it's my friends car. lol

Kind of stupid to put all that and not wall it. I declare. FAIL.