bassahaulic

I watched this and thought what he said made perfect sense.

Will the NS come with this new suspension setup? I think 2 NS 18"s with this suspension on 12k would do some work.

The motor isn't so small ; it has a 66mm magnet stack and a bump-out for around 50mm of x-mech and is 190mm in diameter. There is no good reason to use the triple joint or the surround as a brake when these parts are now available -- so yes, it is going to be quite advantageous in terms of reliability and extending usable throw past where previous frames and parts allowed either for dynamics or SPL competition usage. Must just be the picture making the motor look small then. lol I certienly meant nothing negative with my question. I am defeinity looking forward to getting my hands on some Zv4 18"s for the PT. I have about 6,000w per subs waiting for them.

Is all that suspension really needed for a small motor like that?

Well as it sits my subs were wired in series at the sub, then parallel at the amps which were strapped together. Putting each amp at .5ohm Apparently, if I wire the subs to be parallel at the sub then wire each sub to it's own amp with each amp still at .5ohm. It will increase coil efficiency. When wired in series you get double the amperage but half the voltage. Causing heat to build up and efficiency to be lost. In parallel it does the opposite, you get half the amperage but double the voltage. So you still get the same amount of power, it' s just with a higher voltage causing less heat build up and higher efficiency. Which is where the gain comes from Which makes sense, when I was at .25ohm on the M4a, I could play music all day. And subs never got to hot. they were in parallel. Now with the D9's at .5ohm, I get about 2-3 minutes and they hot as hell. Even at the same volume as before, And are in series. This is how they were wired before, strapped together each amp seeing .5ohm. This is how they are now, separate from each other, still seeing .5ohm.

Yes I am. Lol I've gotten really busy at the Audio shop I work at. So haven't been on much, trying go get on more and more. :-) I've got a whole vehicle build coming soon, my fully loaded 1997 Nissan Hardbody single cab. Getting the full SQ treatment. Top to bottom, going to be great.

Well I blew up a sub for the first time in probably 2 years or more, lol. But I have learned a few wiring secrets as a result which could possibly lead me to a gain to as much as a full db on the meter and be able to play music longer. Ill post details A.S.A.P. along with new pictures.

Well that's just cool as hell. lol

People always seem to go way over kill on the mids/highs department. We have 2 RF punch 6.5" co-aixs per door, powered by a Power 800.4AD in our shop truck, it has 6 15"s and 9,000w, it keeps up all day long. My PT has a single Type X component set on a DD C5b, and it keeps up with my bass.

What reason do you think it is? I simply must know.

What are the rules for amplifiers in that class?

Well, the M4a is now gone. I'm going to miss it but it went to a forum local and a good friend. I now have two RD Audio D9's wired to .5ohm each. So far it is musically MUCH louder since the amps aren't turning off. My M4a would turn off since it was wired to .25ohm and my impedance rise wasn't very high. If it had been just a little higher it would be been BADASS. Going to meter it today after work. I ended up stacking the D9's ontop each other. Worked out great! All XS Flex and Knu Konceptz wire. Came out pretty good. I still have the PAC fan to keep the amps cool, helps a lot with the heat here. lol

If you're just buying a pre-made box, I would defiantly have to tell you to stay away from band pass boxes they are almost always wrong.

Now this, is badass sir. Very impressive.

18"s?

It'll sound a lot better once some SSA subs go back in it.

158's with amp protecting at around 6,700 watts. Got a lot more in it, just got to figure it out.

I've also been losing passenger side glasses for an unkown reason. This is window number 2 in 3 months. The weird part is, when they have broken, the PT has been 100% off. No stereo, nothing, just off with the window down both times. First time door was open and I was in the rear working on the batteries, I hear a ~thud~, followed by the sound of glass falling. And sure enough it had shatterd. The second time, my brother just shit the door, gently, and boom. Gone.

Also, my SAX-100.4 is officially gone. In it's place I have the DD C5b. The M4a got lifted about 1" above the carpet so the internal fan can breathe, and a Stinger fan was added to the side of that. This helped A LOT with the heat from running .25ohm and playing music. Then I took out the Diamond D6 mids on the right, and replaced them with Apline Type X mids on the left. I fine the Alpines to be much cleaner sounding, less distortion at higher volumes, and definitely better mids bass response.

It's been a while since an update so here's one. I FINALLY got the Singer 240 amp alternator installed, only to have the diodes fail in a matter of days. I believe it do be caused by the damage UPS did to it. So, I will be taking it off and repairing that this coming Tuesday. But when it was working, man that thing was a beast. lol I also finally stopped being lazy and painted the wall. As it sits it's only 1 layer, and the port need to be painted all the way to the back. It's a VERY light silver. Sanded my ass off prior to painting, rounded over the port like a mofo. And smoothed out the front even more. I know I need to clean up the edges behind the driver seat, that'll happen at the same time I paint the port and add another layer to the middle. Tomorrow maybe.

How high is high?

I am very interested in this. I am happy with my Mike Singer unit, but the diodes went out last night. Still charges, but only 63amps. I don't mind repairing it and putting it back in, but if these alts are that much tougher I may have to get one, since it is a 4 hour process to change alts.

where it should be around 13.7 Usually it should be close to 14.4 above idle. Most Chrysler vehicles charge around 13.5-13.8v.

Will the 18"s have the same baskets? And will the 18"s also receive the same huge surround?

And since you're metering outlaw, move the mic to the kick panel opposite of the open door. Should help as well.